Suggestions for rear shackle bolt extraction

OK, after putting new HD/higher-rate front & back springs on our '94, I noticed that the upper shackle bushing on the right wasn't so good. It's still functional, but it does slide around, so the rubber is starting to rot (typical AZ problem).

I'm toying with the idea of going to a slightly longer than stock shackle, preferably greasable, so that I can pick up an extra 1/2" to 1" of room to compensate for a heavy load. That may mean extending the bumpstops by a bit too, but, so be it. May be worth it.

My worry: I've read on here a couple of times about people who have broken off these bolts, not unlike the front spring bolts that can stick and break. This car's pretty clean rust-wise, but all the bolts I've broken or had trouble with were in the rear unibody, so there is a risk.

Soaking them in penetrant isn't as easy as the front spring bolts, because those could be hit from the hole in the unibody rail. As far as I can tell, the shackle bolts aren't as accessible.

So, here's what I think I could try:

* Spin 'em & take my chances...

* Drill a small hole in the pocket where the nutplate is welded, and use that as access to soak it with penetrant for a couple of weeks. Weld it shut (or just tap it for a plug screw) when done.

* Cut the old shackle off, then remove the bolt.

Thoughts?

Well, It will never hurt to blast that thing with some PB Blaster (better than WD-40 IMO) So drilling wouldn't hurt at all.

My 98 was somewhat rusty back in that area. I removed the upper shackle bolt to take the springs out, easier that way. Those are some pretty stout bolts and I'd be surprised if you were to bust one off. I'd say soak it, and then use a breaker bar. I couldn't use a torch on mine (shop rules) so all I had was a breaker and a lot of PB Blaster. came out with a whole lot of grunt, but they came out.

i would do what you can with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster (dont do wd40 as its junk for this purpose). then attempt to take the bolt out. if it starts to bind, or even have tention then give a little and "jump" its way out then you have some problems.

if this occurs, you are having debris (rust) clogging the threads of the bolt. the remedy is simple- retighten the bolt. not all the way, just a little. by doing this, you give the debris a chance to clear out. just walk the bolt in and out and you should be able to get the bolt out without breaking it.

if only i knew of this method sooner than what i did.

hth

The backside of the rear captive nuts are accessible thru a set of oval holes in the "rollpan" underneath the rear bumper. It's not a rollpan but for lack of better words...........

PS I've been into Jeeps for nearly 20 years (Mostly CJ's), those bolts are the WORST!!!!!!! I had to sawzall most of them to remove.

-Ron

XXX said:

The backside of the rear captive nuts are accessible thru a set of oval holes in the "rollpan" underneath the rear bumper. It's not a rollpan but for lack of better words...........

Click to expand...

I see, but to get there, you'd have to remove the bumper, right? (If so, not too practical for a 3-week soak). Or maybe I missed something.

That notwithstanding, I'm starting to think that drilling and tapping a hole for the spray tube of the penetrant can might be the way to go. It wouldn't weaken anything enough to matter, I wouldn't think.

My 90 XJ bolts looked a little grungy but after blasting them (PB) every day for 3-4 days I was pleasantly surprised when they turned right out. At this point since I've upgraded springs, replaced shackles, re-upgraded, went to poly's etc. those bolts have come out (4 or 5 times) easily every time. Once you get them out put some anti-sieze on them for the next time (if) and you won't lose any sleep.