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Passenger Drop D44

X

XJToivo

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Sault Ste. Marie, MI, Big Rapids, MI
I searched and didn't find any info on passenger drop D44's in XJ's. I bought a COMPLETE (every part there, just no body) rolling pre-'80 wagoneer frame for $150. I am planning on using the D300 and D44's under my XJ. I have a set of 4.10 gears for the axles, and plan on using limited slips front and rear. I plan on having about ~6-7in of lift, 35's, and running long arms. Is there any reason I cannot use the D44's for this application? I am no stranger to fabrication of any sorts.
 
BTW, I am currently sitting on around 5-5.5 inches of lift, sliders, winched, cut fenders, short arms, stock drivetrain and axles, and 33's. Then I realized 33's are too small, so 35's are on the way, and instead of upgrading stock transfer case and axles, I'm going to get all of the FSJ axles, tcase, and driveshafts(may need modification) in. Like previously stated, I'm no stranger to fabrication, nor scared to do it.:D
 
I don't see any problem with running a pass drop axle. The floor might need some massaging, re route exhaust, among other misc. things to do. Might as well go for a 231/300 doubler, IMO. Won't have to flip anything either.
 
dont know what tranny you're running, but..
you'll need an adapter, i'd lean towards the jbcoversions.com one as it's the
most complete, part #15-1102 for the 23 spline-aw4 tranny. ($250)

your floor will need to be cut open, you'll get a little interferance with the
passenger seat (have it inplace before reworking floor), exhaust will exit
under the driver side, and of course a new support will need to be fabb'ed,
expect replacing the rear drive shaft. it's more fun than work.
 
The XJ's engine is off-set to the passenger side ~1.5 inches. If you install a passenger drop axe, along with the passenger drop transfer case, I'd guess you're going to have clearance issues with the front drive shaft. Personally, I wouldn't go to all that trouble and expense to install a low pinion D44.
 
CanMan said:
I don't see any problem with running a pass drop axle. The floor might need some massaging, re route exhaust, among other misc. things to do. Might as well go for a 231/300 doubler, IMO. Won't have to flip anything either.
Click to expand...

Im in Michigan and have no need for stacked tcases lol. The D300 drops to passenger side, so I wouldn't need to flip it anyways.
 
Maxwell said:
dont know what tranny you're running, but..
you'll need an adapter, i'd lean towards the jbcoversions.com one as it's the
most complete, part #15-1102 for the 23 spline-aw4 tranny. ($250)

your floor will need to be cut open, you'll get a little interferance with the
passenger seat (have it inplace before reworking floor), exhaust will exit
under the driver side, and of course a new support will need to be fabb'ed,
expect replacing the rear drive shaft. it's more fun than work.
Click to expand...

I should have been more specific. I have a 1994, 4.0l, AW-4. From what I've read and seen, all you need to adapt the D300 to the AW-4 is a 1 inch spacer plate. I think I read on Novak that the AW-4 output is the same as the D300 input spline count wise, you just need a 1 inch spacer. I'm in college and on a mean budget, so I beg, borrow, make, and scavenge anything I can get my hands on.
 
your aw4 is 23 spline.
your spacer will be 3/4" thick, you'll loose that much input shaft if you
dont do this correctly, jb gives you an entire kit with their ring including
a longer replacement shaft, seals...etc, also acts as a clocking ring, you
WILL need to clock it a tad......shop all the conversion sites, compare
product, i think you'll end up with www.jbconversions.com when you're
done, i did.

really should'nt skimp in this area, if you do.....get a Triple~A gold card.
 
theres no need for clocking, ive done this set up. it works quite well, you have to hack the hell outta the floor unless you go to cable shifters. theres no driveshaft clearence issues, tho i pushed my front axle 4" forward, and my driveshaft was still only 26" long. my 300 was out of a cj, so I used 2 front 231 output yokes for the cv shafts.

a custom crossemeber is needed, and so is a new exhaust (on the drivers side)
 
Maxwell said:
your aw4 is 23 spline.
your spacer will be 3/4" thick, you'll loose that much input shaft if you
dont do this correctly, jb gives you an entire kit with their ring including
a longer replacement shaft, seals...etc, also acts as a clocking ring, you
WILL need to clock it a tad......shop all the conversion sites, compare
product, i think you'll end up with www.jbconversions.com when you're
done, i did.

really should'nt skimp in this area, if you do.....get a Triple~A gold card.
Click to expand...

I don't plan on skimping. http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_153_aw4.htm

Is there any reason why this would not work? Novak is a very good company with a very good reputation. IMHO, they wouldn't sell a product that wouldn't perform correctly.
 
I need to agree with Maxwell, I used the JBC as well, it's more complete for
less money in the big picture, very nice pcs.
 
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