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Did I screw up?

imma honky

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Augusta, Ga
Already pulled my valve cover (see horrible blow by).
There is quite a bit of sludge/carbon build up. I managed to get most of the crap out, but some fell down around the push rods. Can I let it ride? Pour something down to help break it up/ push it down? Planning on cleaning it a bit more, then put it together with fresh oil and some seafoam, then change the oil again in about 2 weeks? Does that sound ok to do? Really need to get it running by tonight... only have 4 more workable hours and I still need to do the fuel filter and finish the plugs and wires, clean the air filter box out and fix my 40$ POS dealership PCV hose I managed to snap.
 
That crap that slipped by can end up in the oil pan and clog the oil pump pick up, I know, I did it on my 2.8L and ended up pulling the engine, replacing the crank and then doing it again 2 days later when the reground crank broke. If you can get it out you should use a shop vac with a pointy nozzle and get as much as you can back out. Thats why whenever I posted about cleaning the valve area I have always said use a plastic scraper and shop vac in tandem, keeping the nozzle of the shop vac right there at the end of the scraper. Good luck..
 
finished th plugs, got one flange back in the cover using a thin layer of RTV.
Just an FYI for anyone else planning on doing this the same way I did (using the non OE valve cover) THey are not ALL the same.
I will post pics when i get the chance (5-90, you shuld note this!) I have 4 covers, two fomr 90' laredo's an 89 and a ?? (I know it's pre 91). I compared the flanges and both 90's were different. One had a round end, one had a triangle end. The bolts holdingthem in are not the same. Do thet flow different? We'll find out! I am using all the old equipment from my other 90. Wish me luck as I just go ahead as planned unless someone says otherwise. My friend said as long as i change the oil soon and run something to break up the debree, i should be ok.....
 
RichP said:
That crap that slipped by can end up in the oil pan and clog the oil pump pick up, I know, I did it on my 2.8L and ended up pulling the engine, replacing the crank and then doing it again 2 days later when the reground crank broke. If you can get it out you should use a shop vac with a pointy nozzle and get as much as you can back out. Thats why whenever I posted about cleaning the valve area I have always said use a plastic scraper and shop vac in tandem, keeping the nozzle of the shop vac right there at the end of the scraper. Good luck..
Well, i dont have a shop vac.... using an old house vac. I used an attachment, but it cant reach all the way down. So you dont think i should put it together with debree in there at all?b I would like to get it runnign today, but i still have tomorrow. Any other options than to go out and buy a shop vac with a smaller attachment? Should I pull the rockers and push rods? I dont have a torque wrench to spec em back in (its on my list to get). I onyl have 2 more hours of dayslight......so.
 
Well, when I fubard mine I pulled the covers and intake to fix a leak on the back of the intake. Did the scraping and stuff but no shop vac. Put it back together and drove it home that nite from the shop I was working on it in, drove to work the next day and 80 miles later at 75mph oil pressure dropped to -0- and it died, I think it had some kind of oil pressure shut off, GM thing, my 73 Vega had it to. Let it sit for 5 minutes and started back up, pressure was at 5lbs on the gauge at idle, used to be 20 so I knew I did some damage. Had it flatbedded back to the shop and pulled the engine, mains were scored bad. Ordered recon crank and put that in with new bearings, ran great, went to work 90miles, no problem, on the way home started bucking, he came and got me again in the flat bed, pulled the motor and the crank was broken. Put another recon crank in and drove it for 50K more before I sold it... man, that was a horrible two days.. the first time we dropped the pan, chunks of sludge came out and the pickup was packed almost solid with crud stuck into the screen.
 
I say the best thing is to flush it down and out now with a couple gallons of kerosene and change the oil and filter often for the next thousand miles
 
langer1 said:
I say the best thing is to flush it down and out now with a couple gallons of kerosene and change the oil and filter often for the next thousand miles
Are you serious?!?! Well, it's getting too dark to work now. So i will have to put it off til tomorrow. THrow me some more suggestions. I need to have it done by dark tomorrow for work on monday!
 
RichP said:
Well, when I fubard mine I pulled the covers and intake to fix a leak on the back of the intake. Did the scraping and stuff but no shop vac. Put it back together and drove it home that nite from the shop I was working on it in, drove to work the next day and 80 miles later at 75mph oil pressure dropped to -0- and it died, I think it had some kind of oil pressure shut off, GM thing, my 73 Vega had it to. Let it sit for 5 minutes and started back up, pressure was at 5lbs on the gauge at idle, used to be 20 so I knew I did some damage. Had it flatbedded back to the shop and pulled the engine, mains were scored bad. Ordered recon crank and put that in with new bearings, ran great, went to work 90miles, no problem, on the way home started bucking, he came and got me again in the flat bed, pulled the motor and the crank was broken. Put another recon crank in and drove it for 50K more before I sold it... man, that was a horrible two days.. the first time we dropped the pan, chunks of sludge came out and the pickup was packed almost solid with crud stuck into the screen.
Well, i can't afford all that. I only have what i can do in my carport I can't drop the pan now... just too late in the weekend now. Really options for now.
 
langer1 said flush, not circulate. Drain the oil, leave the plug out and flush away. Mineral spirits is another cheap, easily available, high flash-point solvent. Whatever you use, it would be possible to filter for a second flush if need be. Something as light as mineral spirits can be evaporated if you move enough air through the crankcase. I have also used ATF to chase old oil from the small engines I have. That's kind of expensive to use on the scale you need, maybe for a final flush before you button it up.


Good Luck!
 
Hypoid said:
langer1 said flush, not circulate. Drain the oil, leave the plug out and flush away. Mineral spirits is another cheap, easily available, high flash-point solvent. Whatever you use, it would be possible to filter for a second flush if need be. Something as light as mineral spirits can be evaporated if you move enough air through the crankcase. I have also used ATF to chase old oil from the small engines I have. That's kind of expensive to use on the scale you need, maybe for a final flush before you button it up.


Good Luck!
Thaat sound feasable. I may try that tomorrow with mineral spirits. Toss a gallon or two slowly. Should I leave the drain plug IN at first, THEN remove? Or removie it to begin with?
 
x2. I'd use a container that makes it easy to control the pour. Once you start chasing the crud down the case you'll have an idea of how quick to pour. If you feel you need more flushing, run the solvent through a clean rag, old air filter, wad of steel wool, coffee filter, whatever you have available. Were not going for clean-room specs here, use your imagination. When the flushing is over, put a lamp under the pan to heat things up and speed evaporation. Can't hurt to prelube before you start up.
Good Luck!
 
Hypoid said:
x2. I'd use a container that makes it easy to control the pour. Once you start chasing the crud down the case you'll have an idea of how quick to pour. If you feel you need more flushing, run the solvent through a clean rag, old air filter, wad of steel wool, coffee filter, whatever you have available. Were not going for clean-room specs here, use your imagination. When the flushing is over, put a lamp under the pan to heat things up and speed evaporation. Can't hurt to prelube before you start up.
Good Luck!
I was going to use a spray bottle for the mineral spirits.
 
imma honky said:
Already pulled my valve cover (see horrible blow by).
There is quite a bit of sludge/carbon build up. I managed to get most of the crap out, but some fell down around the push rods. Can I let it ride? Pour something down to help break it up/ push it down? Planning on cleaning it a bit more, then put it together with fresh oil and some seafoam, then change the oil again in about 2 weeks? Does that sound ok to do? Really need to get it running by tonight... only have 4 more workable hours and I still need to do the fuel filter and finish the plugs and wires, clean the air filter box out and fix my 40$ POS dealership PCV hose I managed to snap.
even the one where jesus christ jacks mickey mouse in the doo doo hole with a lawn dart while garth brooks gives birth to a cheddar cheese log on santa clauses tummy tum?imma honky is the only one who will get this unless you listen to bloodhound gang.
 
So far, so good I hope. I put the valve cover back together using some RTV on the PCV tubes (see broke OE). I sprayed some mineral spirits down the push rod holes. It wasn't as bad as I though (ont as much crap in the holes). I am letting round one sit for now, then I will actually DUMP some cleaners down each hole to clear it up, then follow it with some oil I guess. And hopefully have it together by tonight. I plan on letting all the gaskets sit until tomorrow before I crank it up. Does this sound like a good plan?
 
Let round one sit? I'm a little confused there, nothing new. For flushing the residue I'd keep running the solvent. The fluid running down the passages is the only mechanical action you have working for you at this point. I'd deluge the passages to my hearts content and let it evaporate while working on the other things that need to be done. I guess it's old age, I like to know how I'm getting to work before I hit the sack. LOL

Jason, as long as you don't blow anything up or get yourself hurt, life is wonderful! Years ago a guy I knew had 15 gallons of diesel mixed with 5 gallons of gasoline: Some lady picked the wrong pump to fill her car. The stuff made great degreaser, and I could put a butt out in it. LOL

JMHO
 
Hypoid said:
Let round one sit? I'm a little confused there, nothing new. For flushing the residue I'd keep running the solvent. The fluid running down the passages is the only mechanical action you have working for you at this point. I'd deluge the passages to my hearts content and let it evaporate while working on the other things that need to be done. I guess it's old age, I like to know how I'm getting to work before I hit the sack. LOL

Jason, as long as you don't blow anything up or get yourself hurt, life is wonderful! Years ago a guy I knew had 15 gallons of diesel mixed with 5 gallons of gasoline: Some lady picked the wrong pump to fill her car. The stuff made great degreaser, and I could put a butt out in it. LOL

JMHO
I have a way to work, thats not a problem. I just dont havea ride anywher else! I ran a whole gallon of the mineral spirits though each tube a few times. I got the head all cleaned up for reinstall. I am taking a break, then I will go throw the valve cover on and hope everything works out ok.

How long should I wait to change the oil again? few days? Week? 2 weeks?
 
Everything is put back together. Just have to add oil and coolant.
Ahould I go ahead and fire it up tonight? The only RTV i used was on the flanges inside the cover and they have set for about 5 hours for one and 24 for the other.
Any input is appreciated.
 
Sure you can also use the house vac and just cone it down with thin cardboard and tape to hold it together. Creates a very strong suction and if you still worry go smaller with vac hose it should grab the chunks and hold them or break them up to little chunks which are easier to flush out. Good Luck
 
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