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Installing Oil Pump...
- Thread starter ODXJ97
- Start date
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
It is a PIA job, have a sharp knife to sperate the RTV cement they used to put the thing on with. Thats the worst part of the job, getting the pan off. Get that front axle as far down as you can, up on jackstands or lift, disconnect the shocks
Dr. Dyno
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Al Ain, UAE
I just had a Melling HV pump installed in my stroker last month so I can tell you exactly what's involved.
In my case, I had to clearance the oil pan to fit around the HV pump yet some guys didn't need to do this. Here's my write-up:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/HVOP.html
If your Jeep has a suspension lift, getting the oil pan off is a lot easier. If, like me, you have stock height suspension, you'll need to do the following:
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Jack the Jeep up by the frame rails and let the front axle droop
3. Drain the engine oil and remove oil filter
4. Disconnect the front shocks from the lower shock mounts
5. Remove the starter motor and solenoid
6. Support the front of the engine under the outer part of the harmonic balancer (not the grooved part) with a jackstand
7. Remove the engine mount bolts
8. Raise the front of the engine with the jackstand
9. Remove oil pan to block bolts
10. Gently pry away the pan from the block with a wide paint scraper
11. Have fun scraping away the old gasket material and RTV from the block & pan mating surfaces
12. Remove oil pump with pick-up (only two bolts)
In my case, I had to clearance the oil pan to fit around the HV pump yet some guys didn't need to do this. Here's my write-up:
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/HVOP.html
If your Jeep has a suspension lift, getting the oil pan off is a lot easier. If, like me, you have stock height suspension, you'll need to do the following:
1. Disconnect the negative battery terminal
2. Jack the Jeep up by the frame rails and let the front axle droop
3. Drain the engine oil and remove oil filter
4. Disconnect the front shocks from the lower shock mounts
5. Remove the starter motor and solenoid
6. Support the front of the engine under the outer part of the harmonic balancer (not the grooved part) with a jackstand
7. Remove the engine mount bolts
8. Raise the front of the engine with the jackstand
9. Remove oil pan to block bolts
10. Gently pry away the pan from the block with a wide paint scraper
11. Have fun scraping away the old gasket material and RTV from the block & pan mating surfaces
12. Remove oil pump with pick-up (only two bolts)
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Dr. Dyno said:
One more tool needed, full face saftey shield or at a minimum, goggles not safety glasses, that oil will be dripping on you the entire time...
WOW!! I'm glad I have 10" of lift. I didn't have to do any of that, and I was lucky enough to find a fancy one piece pan gasket in great shape annnd it decided to hang on to the block... very thankfully.
On another note, I am about to pull the old pump. However, I noticed that the gasket that came with the new pump seems to be missing a hole... only four holes, but there is five hole in the new pump.
I REALLY hope I don't have to clearance the pan. Thanks guys.
On another note, I am about to pull the old pump. However, I noticed that the gasket that came with the new pump seems to be missing a hole... only four holes, but there is five hole in the new pump.
I REALLY hope I don't have to clearance the pan. Thanks guys.
Yaaayyyyyyyyyyyyy!!!! party1: party1: :yelclap: :yelclap: Everything worked out great, and my oil pressure problem is fixed. I get a consistent 30psi at 2,000rpm, and 14 psi at hot idle. Thanks for all the info guys, and I didn't even have to make additional clearance for the HV pump... awesome! I did have to grind down the screen tip a bit' to get it into the pump, but no big deal.
:repair: :yelclap:
:repair: :yelclap:
Dr. Dyno
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Al Ain, UAE
I don't want to burst your bubble but your oil pressures are still on the low side. My stroker's oil pressures are 45-50psi at 2000rpm and 25psi at hot idle with Mobil 1 0W-40.
Did you check the rod/main bearing clearances like I suggested? I think you've fixed one problem but not the other.
Did you check the rod/main bearing clearances like I suggested? I think you've fixed one problem but not the other.
No I didn't. That would be just beyond my skill level. Fixing/replacing these would require a near rebuild... correct?
Here's the thing... the engine is still running pretty strong with 37s' and 4.56 gears. I plan on a Stroker rebuild sometime soon... however, can I get away with this for a decent amount of time... let's say a year?
Here's the thing... the engine is still running pretty strong with 37s' and 4.56 gears. I plan on a Stroker rebuild sometime soon... however, can I get away with this for a decent amount of time... let's say a year?
Dr. Dyno
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Al Ain, UAE
You might get away with it for that long but I wouldn't put money on it. You can replace rod and main bearings with only the oil pan removed.
Rod bearings are easier to replace because all you have to do is loosen the nuts on the rod bolts enough to be able to separate the cap from the rod. Then you'd be able to slide out the old bearings and slide in the new ones.
Main bearings are a little more difficult to work on but if you loosen all the main caps and have a buddy to take the weight of the crank, you can replace the upper bearing halves as well as the lower halves without too much difficulty. You could set aside one Saturday or Sunday and complete the job inside a day.
Rod bearings are easier to replace because all you have to do is loosen the nuts on the rod bolts enough to be able to separate the cap from the rod. Then you'd be able to slide out the old bearings and slide in the new ones.
Main bearings are a little more difficult to work on but if you loosen all the main caps and have a buddy to take the weight of the crank, you can replace the upper bearing halves as well as the lower halves without too much difficulty. You could set aside one Saturday or Sunday and complete the job inside a day.
RichP
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Effort, Pa
Dr. Dyno said:
Just make sure you have the torque wrench all set to go as well as a good light under there to look at the surfaces. It really is not that bad of a job as long as you have the full face safey cover, take your time. The bearing switch usually takes about two to three hours not counting the pan/pump removal and reinstall. IT is handy though to have a second set of hands down there with you on a long wratchet or breaker bar to turn it over as you go along doing the rod bearings.