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How do you replace stock turn signals with

B

bigwhitey

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Brunswick, ME.
I want to replace my stock turn signals with the 4" round LEDs but they won't flash. I can hook back up the stock bulb and it works fine. I even tried the regular 4" light with no luck.
Brake and tail works fine and I have a variable flasher.

Any help would be great.
 
Search for LED and resistor.

The flasher needs a certain amount of resistance to flash, I don't know what that value is but it's been covered here before (I specifically remember it in connection with Farm Boy Enterprises LED light boxes)
 
I seem to remember reading somewhere that when you install LEDs for turn signals... you need to install a bleed resistor to bleed down the voltage otherwise you end up with the problem that you now have...
You might do a search on this or one of the other Jeep forums to get a copy of a wiring schematic for this installation.
Check Pirate 4x4, SoCalXJ, Jeeps Unlimited, etc....

Charles
 
While you're about it, it wouldn't be a bad idea to install electronic flashers.

Conventional "thermal" flashers use, I belive, a variation on an "RC Tank" circuit (Google it for info) to time the flashing - that's why the rate of flash changes when a bulb burns out. Electronic flashers are internally timed, meaning they won't vary (nor will they vary if you hook up a trailer or convert bulbs - which is why they've been out for a while now...)

Expect to spend about $8-10 each for them. Replace the turn signal one first - both if you can spring $20 at once. That way, your hazzards will work as well.

I put electronic flashers in when I installed 50W 1156 bulbs for my turn signal and reverse lamps...

5-90
 
Yep I read that LED's can draw less current and not activate the thermal flasher.
I tried the incadesent bulbs also but same problem they just light up.

Tommorrow I'll get an elctronic relay and try again.

Whats a bleed reistor and where do you get one?
 
I'd put an HD electronic flasher in my 94 XJ several years ago.

18 months ago, I mounted a set of FarmerMatt's LED taillight assemblies. No other modifications were necessary. All of the lights flash at the same rate as the original incandescents.

Start with the electronic flasher.
 
Bought an electronic flasher and it works great now. Also I bought a trailer wiring harness to use one light for tail, turn and stop.
My reverse lights are 55W fog lights. I hope I don't have any problems with them drawing too much power or anything.
 
It would be a good idea to use a new/separate power source for the 55w backup lights along with a relay for them.
 
Here's what I'd do, if it were me...

1) Pull a secondary power distribution lead to the rear. Use something fairly heavy - you're probably going to use it some more later...

2) Wire in a relay, triggered by shifting into reverse (the "trip" signal can be gotten by just splicing into the reverse lights...)

3) Wire up the rear "bright" lights via the relay. You can, if you are so inclined, wire in an "override" switch - use a SPDT toggle, and you can either force them OFF or force them ON.

Either way, you won't be adding much load to your reverse lamp circuit. As I recall, a Bosch relay wants a couple dozen milliamperes to latch - more than that, and you'll want a new relay.

5-90
 
So lets say you tried to wire the fog lights direct and blew something. Where would that something be?????
Is there a fuse for the rear brake lights or a relay somewhere?
 
I'd start by checking the switch. If the wiring and fuse are sufficient, the switch is probably the weak link (which is why I usually suggest wiring the switch to trip the relay - not only will the relay usually switch more than the average toggle switch, but it will also allow for setting up a shorter path for the power.)

5-90
 
Ive found if you use a "bleed resistor" with the leds, it will only light the LEDs to about 85% so good call on the e flasher.
Ive also found that the reverse light circuit will take about 50-60 watts before there is a noticable power loss. (ax15)
Although I have had a 140w load on there for some time without adverse affects
 
5-90 said:
I'd start by checking the switch. If the wiring and fuse are sufficient, the switch is probably the weak link (which is why I usually suggest wiring the switch to trip the relay - not only will the relay usually switch more than the average toggle switch, but it will also allow for setting up a shorter path for the power.)

5-90
Click to expand...


What switch???? The NSS????
 
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