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is brake line flaring a lost art??

sidriptide

sidriptide

nobody of any consequence
Location
western massachusetts
i wasted 2 hours the other night trying to teach myself how to make a proper double-flare.
WTF!
i couldnt get it right!:gonnablow

does anyone still do their own, or do you do what i did and buy a pre-flared line thats close to the proper length and just make some generous bends to take up the extra line?

i am convinced now that a good flare is the product of a good-quality flaring tool. i spent $25 on whatever Advance Auto had on the shelf but it was pretty poor quality. it would let the tube push back thru when compressed.

any pointers or tips for my next attempt at this when i do the master cylinder/booster swap??
 
sidriptide said:
i wasted 2 hours the other night trying to teach myself how to make a proper double-flare.
WTF!
i couldnt get it right!:gonnablow

does anyone still do their own, or do you do what i did and buy a pre-flared line thats close to the proper length and just make some generous bends to take up the extra line?

i am convinced now that a good flare is the product of a good-quality flaring tool. i spent $25 on whatever Advance Auto had on the shelf but it was pretty poor quality. it would let the tube push back thru when compressed.

any pointers or tips for my next attempt at this when i do the master cylinder/booster swap??
Click to expand...

Hey,

It's not that difficult to do. Probably the tool is not gripping the line tight enough wrap some tape around the line and then try again. Or get a better fitting flare tool, I got mine at Pep Boys.

btw - I did it on my 1st attempt. Just take your time you can do it too.

Thx, Phil
 
Yes you can do it,Buy a good tool and practice on some spare line first.i found that the key to a good double flare is to not have too much line above the tool.The flare tool insert can be used for a guage as to how much line to use,match the length of the line to the depth of the piece that goes in the tube,and in my case it produced a perfect flare.
Wayne
 
The key is in your first post there. If you can't hold the tube with the clamp, it's worthless. I found the same thing with the first set I got, but found that I had an old clamp from a conventional flare set that would work. If you can hold it tight, the rest will work. Note that the wing nuts on a good flare tool are designed so that you can stick a screwdriver or something through for extra leverage. And make sure that you file the beveled edge as carefully as you can, because this will determine whether the flare squashes down evenly.

I usually get preflared tubing if it's close, and bend it. But another option is to get preflared tubing a little long and cut one end and reflare it. It's much easier to do brand new tubing than old stuff, and much easier on the bench than on the car.
 
I've only done 1 or 2 years ago with a borrowed tool, IIRC, a big factor, as well those already mentioned, was how well you cut the end of the line.

Are you using the proper pipe cutting tool? OR you snipping or hacksawing the end of the line? Its the rolling blade and rollers on the end of "C" Clamp tool, that you clamp on the end and spin around the end of the line to cut it. As well, you have to clean up the flash from the cutting well. I used a fine round file, and blew out the filings with compressed air.

Remember, you have to keep the end of the line perfectly round.
 
Along the same line as this thread.

I'm considering making a couple of hard lines for a transmission cooler, that the ends will have to have a barb to clamp a hose over.

Whats the best way to make a barb on the end of tube/line? I'm considering getting a double flare tool, and only take the end of the line half-way thru the process. Basically crimping down the end of the line with the first fitting, that bulges the line, out, but NOT using the 2nd fitting that folds the end of the line over.

Anyone every try that?
 
You're looking for a pliers style flare tool, not a bar & yoke tool.

And as much as I hate to admit it, JCWhitney is the place to get it. I've found it on the shelf at the local Ace Hardware, but for twice as much and without the double flare button adapters.
 
Put the cheap one in a vise (it even says so if you read the directions) or buy a better quality one. I've done 7 flares in the past couple weeks.
 
i'll take another shot at it when i get more time, i was rushing at the time.

i know it cant be as hard as it seemed.
 
The only things I can add are to make sure the cut is square and clean, and to use a drop of oil on the flare working area. The previous tip about wrapping the tubing with tape is a good one. If you pay attention to detail and take your time, you'll do a perfect flare every time.
 
Rick Anderson said:
Along the same line as this thread.

I'm considering making a couple of hard lines for a transmission cooler, that the ends will have to have a barb to clamp a hose over.

Whats the best way to make a barb on the end of tube/line? I'm considering getting a double flare tool, and only take the end of the line half-way thru the process. Basically crimping down the end of the line with the first fitting, that bulges the line, out, but NOT using the 2nd fitting that folds the end of the line over.

Anyone every try that?
Click to expand...

I think you're better off doing the double for that, because a single, bellmouthed flare will tend to gouge the hose when you try to slip it on.
 
 
With a "tubing beader" - check Summit or Jeg's. If that doesn't pan out, go straight to Earl's or Russell (both race/performance plumbing suppliers,) since that's what you're likely to be getting anyhow.

A "bead" is much better for putting hose on than a "flare" - and you'll get a bead just like the one on the OEM hardlines that way...

5-90

Rick Anderson said:
Along the same line as this thread.

I'm considering making a couple of hard lines for a transmission cooler, that the ends will have to have a barb to clamp a hose over.

Whats the best way to make a barb on the end of tube/line? I'm considering getting a double flare tool, and only take the end of the line half-way thru the process. Basically crimping down the end of the line with the first fitting, that bulges the line, out, but NOT using the 2nd fitting that folds the end of the line over.

Anyone every try that?
Click to expand...
 
sidriptide said:
i am convinced now that a good flare is the product of a good-quality flaring tool. i spent $25 on whatever Advance Auto had on the shelf but it was pretty poor quality. it would let the tube push back thru when compressed.

any pointers or tips for my next attempt at this when i do the master cylinder/booster swap??
Click to expand...
You only wasted two hours? You done good.

I started out with a good quality double flare tool, and it worked perfectly right from the very first attempt. After a couple of moves I couldn't find it, and I replaced it with a less expensive model. BIG mistake. It's totally useless, for exactly the reason you encountered -- it doesn't hold the tube, and it slides down when you apply pressure to form the flare.

Get a good tool from a NAPA store, or any auto store that sells name brand tools. Do not buy any of the stuff that Auto Zone or Advance has out where you can pick it up. That's the Chinese junk stuff. The good tools are the ones behind the counter.
 
Wa Woody said:
This is the best flaring tool I have found to date.

http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produ...1134&mscssid=RJTTMV0LFSJV9PSUR22HKDWGSVJF2FLC
Click to expand...
YES! That's the good one I had. Works great, first time every time.

71134.jpg
 
Do you have any 'plumber' friends? If not find yourself a 'Lockridge' tool in the appropriate size for beading the end of the line. Its a simple "L" shaped tool that slides in and when rotated a BB pops out and does the ridge pro style. Turn back and remove the tool. Trick is you gotta have the correct size for the line size your working with.

Ken
 
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