driveshaft vibe ideas

i am running a xj 44 in the rear with a 6 in lift and a d35 driveshaft.the yoke is allmost all the way in and i am still getting bad vibes . i also have a 1 inch t case drop , which i want to get rid of .i am planning on getting some shims and trying to figure out how to get a front driveshaft to go on the rear with out a hack and tap .i was thinking of machining out the front yoke of the front driveshaft and welding in the slip yoke . has anyone ever done this ?do you think it would work ?

anyone

waggy said:

i am running a xj 44 in the rear with a 6 in lift and a d35 driveshaft.the yoke is allmost all the way in and i am still getting bad vibes . i also have a 1 inch t case drop , which i want to get rid of .i am planning on getting some shims and trying to figure out how to get a front driveshaft to go on the rear with out a hack and tap .i was thinking of machining out the front yoke of the front driveshaft and welding in the slip yoke . has anyone ever done this ?do you think it would work ?

Click to expand...

I dont think it would work...

If you weld the yoke onto the T-case shaft you will possibly destroy your seal and then you would have to grind the welds back off to remove the yoke and replace the seal, SYE of your choice is the best option here.


good luck

You could probably do what you mentioned with the driveshaft. It's your driveshaft though.. bad things happen when they fly out on the highway. I'd recommend spending some bucks and doing it the right way.

If you have a 4.0/AW4/231 combo the front driveshaft will bolt right up to a HD SYE. The stock d/s tube is plenty beefy @ .120" but the slip spline count is down from what an aftermarket d/s would buy.

As for the vibrations- without an SYE, the pinion and t-case shaft need to be more or less parallel, with the pinion yoke down an extra degree or two. With an SYE the pinion should point straight up the driveshaft. Once again, down a degree or two to compensate for diff torque on accel.

you misunderstood i want to cut the stock yoke off of the end of the drive shaft the part that goes into the t case and weld that to the inside of the front driveshaft yoke which would be machined out .therfore creating a slip yoke on the double cardian driveshaft.

jeepinandy said:

I dont think it would work...

If you weld the yoke onto the T-case shaft you will possibly destroy your seal and then you would have to grind the welds back off to remove the yoke and replace the seal, SYE of your choice is the best option here.


]

Click to expand...

Sorry about that...
The front D-shaft already has a slip in it. just get rid of the rear shaft and do the SYE and use a front D-shaft on the rear as JJacobs mentioned...

Why go to all that trouble when you can just buy a Corvette yoke that will slide right on and accept the front driveshaft double cardon?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Corv...33733QQitemZ8036332611QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW



or a bit cheaper one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CORV...10076QQitemZ4610019658QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

for that price just buy a hack and tap, if a 96 or newer

my truck is a 89 . a hack and tap will cost me over 500 up here in canada , way to much . i can have the pieces machined for nothing and i can do the welding myself . what is the problem with having a slip yoke on the t case and another one on the drive shaft .?will that corvette part fit a 242 ?

waggy said:

my truck is a 89 . a hack and tap will cost me over 500 up here in canada , way to much . i can have the pieces machined for nothing and i can do the welding myself . what is the problem with having a slip yoke on the t case and another one on the drive shaft .?will that corvette part fit a 242 ?

Click to expand...

You can only have one slip yoke period. You can use the Corvette yoke on either the 231 or 242 as both 27 spline. Shorten the output shaft and cut the yoke back until it bottoms out on the splines or machine the inside of it so it goes all the way to the bearing. This will stabilize the end of the yoke far better than a Hack and tap flange which have some movement allowing the spline to wear over time and then leak fluid. You will then need to drill and tap the end of the shaft to stop it moving off the spline. The advantage is you can leave the shaft about 2" longer than normal ( depending on which transmission and rear axle you have ) so that your yoke to yoke measurement is the same as the front and have interchangable shafts front and rear of perfect length.

If you take it to a driveline shop and get the correct drive train angle and shim it to the right angle it should make a difference. I'm kind of where your at too. I'm at 5" and want to go about another 1/2 inch or so. My nephew is building me a 44 so I'll need to figure out the angle before I put in the new axle.

i am getting shims put in. i also have a t case drop which i want to get rid of for more clearence .how big of a hole should i drill in the output shaft?