quick electrical questions

Need to wire in my KC lights. I would like to hook them to the high beam circuit. Does anyone know what color the wire is coming out of the dimmer switch harness that runs to the steering column on a '95? Also, what is the amperage rating on a stock alternator for a '95?
Thanks

I don't know exactly what you want to do. Have them come on with the high beams? Most anytime a State Trooper sees you driving like this, you are gonna get pulled over.
This setup will give you the option of using them as a work light (in conjunction with the parking lights and any other light) or legally with the low beams.

8Mud said:

I don't know exactly what you want to do. Have them come on with the high beams? Most anytime a State Trooper sees you driving like this, you are gonna get pulled over.
This setup will give you the option of using them as a work light (in conjunction with the parking lights and any other light) or legally with the low beams.

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You have that backwards driving lights high beams only fogs low beams only.

Different laws different places, here and many other places, auxiliary lights of whatever flavor, are with low beams only.
Violet/white is the low beam wire. You can substitute the high beam connection for the low beam connection, if local laws, say driving lights with high beam only (not anyplace I've been recently).
I've also found it easier to tap into the headlight harness under the hood (about halfway down the inner fender) and do a piggy back splice and run the wires back through the firewall and under dash, to my switch. Easier to troubleshoot, easier to fix or change and less chance of messing something up under the dash. Just my preference, I go under the dash also (to splice), but not if I have a choice.

A little observation, take it as you wish. Something I've read, which makes sense to me. If you have very bright driving lights on with your high beams, it seems like a good idea, but what happens is that when you switch to lows (assuming your lows are legal), you are momentarily blinded because your eyes can't adjust to the change quickly enough. I don't suppose that's an issue off road, but there may be a reason why some lighting arrangements are not legal on the road.

Another, slightly off the topic observation. If you do put on driving lights with your low beams, make sure they are not in line with your headlights, or don't look like extra headlights. I have an old Mercedes with built-in fog lights that are round, and in line with the round headlights. It does not matter how well they are aimed. I could have them pointing straight down, I think, but when driving with these lights on people will flash me on the assumption that I have my high beams on.

I'll clarify: I want to have the KC's switch sourced off the high beam wire. This will allow me to run them in conjunction with the high beams when not on the highway. If I want to run high beams without the KC's, All I have to do is turn the KC switch off, and then I just have high beams. My other option is to just source the switch from an accessory opening on the fuse block, and turn them on when I need them. Its very rare for me top drive on the highway at night, so I like to have my KC's come on with the high beam. Don't know what the local laws are for auxillary lights-guess I should find out.

I tapped into the headlamp connector itself for the trigger circuit. You can take the wired metal clips that attatch to the headlamps out of their plastic housing, fix another wire to them and put the clip back in (hope this makes sense). I'm trying to remember what wire, because people asked me before but I just used my handy voltmeter to figure out which wire is hot when the hi-beams go on (check at the connector).

I'm sure the instructions KC provides you with include how to wire them up if you want to have them come on with the hi-beams but retain the option of turning just the KC lighs off. Basically you put a switch in the "trigger wire" I have done something custom, a 3 way switch sourced to 12v cig. lighter power and the trigger wire. This way, I have 3 settings ON WITH HI BEAM - OFF - ON INDEPENDENTLY OF HI BEAM.

Just make sure to get FUSED power from the right source with correct gauge wire. I tapped into (with wire rings) the post thats the power source for the fuse block directly behind the battery. Directly behind the battery there is a bolt/nut holding serveral electrical connections together.

As far as using them on streets, I do it all the time, esp. when driving in rural areas where livestock may be present of course only when there is no oncoming traffic. I have the pencil beams that let you see way out into the distance and I think it makes it a lot safer.

Just what I want, but have wiring run to the interior(hoping to wire in like I did my old Grand Wag) so I need the color of the wire that controls the High bemas from the dimmer switch in the steering column, so I can just tap that.