Peougot to AX15 Daily Driver swap

Im sure this has been done a million times, but i must, indeed beat this dead horse alittle more and aska few questions of my own.

Im wondering a few things, besides the trans, bell houseing, slave clyndiner, transmount, what all will i need, also can i reuse any of my exsisting garbage?

will my cross member have to change?

Diffculty rateing on this one? and does anyone have a writeup on the specifics?

Thanks in advance for any replys.

Ben

sorry, can't help much, but...

If your current trans is a manual,and in good shape, why do you want to do this swap? I hear that the Puegot is actually a bit stronger than the AX-15

in my book a tranny swap is a high difficulty rating, of course, my definition of difficult is something less than others...

sorry can't be of more help

As a start, I just (out of curiosity for this I already have ax-15) did a search "peugeot ax-15 swap" and found lots of posts that discuss some of your questions.

It would probably help to spell "Peugeot" correctly.

Come on, youre from Canada you should be able to spell words from your other official language. It would also help if there is a u-pull it junkyard from your area, you will save a lot of money. One near my house wanted $105 (us) for one w/ the external slave bellhousing. Get one of those if you can.

On what basis, is the Ba10/5 stronger than the AX-15?

i would have to disagree with the Peugeot being stronger then the ax15, and the reason im swaping is becasue, my trans isnt in the best of shape, sorry for being unclear. Thanks for the spelling tip haha, its a bit late here.......thats my excuse and im stickin to it.

I do believe the pilot bearing is different.

BCParker said:

sorry, can't help much, but...

If your current trans is a manual,and in good shape, why do you want to do this swap? I hear that the Puegot is actually a bit stronger than the AX-15

in my book a tranny swap is a high difficulty rating, of course, my definition of difficult is something less than others...

sorry can't be of more help

Click to expand...

ummm just curious.... then why even post?

Anyways, swapping out tranny's isn't that hard provided you got all the parts and tools. The most important tool you need is a reverse torx socket for the top two tranny bolts. Otherwise then that you'll want the tranny with a matching spline output for your tcase or a matching tranny tcase set and all the clutch components. The swap from what I recall reading is a bolt on and has been covered in quite a bit of a detail over the time and I believe even this past week someone started a thread on it as well: search is your friend

The upper ballhousing bolts take an E12 socket as I recall - replace the bolts with hex head 3/8"-16, with the same underhead length as the ones you're pulling out. (Amazing, isnt' it - how often those Torx sockets get used to remove soemthing, but not put it back in?)

I'd replace all the bellhousing hardware just to be thorough - I'm thinking the lower bolts are 7/16"-14, just for reference. Change the starter mounting bolts as well - one is 3/8"-16, the other is M10x1.5 (no, I don't know why, either.)

The clutch cover retaining bolts are 3/8"-16x5/8" (IIRC - just did this one a while ago,) and socket head capscrews work for this one just fine. You'll need a total of six, and they really should be change each time they're taken to bits. The U-joint straps are held on with 1/4"-28x3/4", use socket heads for those as well (since they offer a smaller head and internal wrenching, which eliminates interference with the straps. Socket Head capscrews are heat treated, as a matter of course, to SAE Grade 8 specs. And the smaller profile change at the head offers greater strength as well.) Use LocTite #222 or #242 on both the clutch cover bolts and the u-joint yoke bolts.

I'm not sure of the length of the flywheel bolts, but they're threaded 1/2"-20. If you get a length, please report back (the flexplate bolts are 1/2" long - the flywheel bolts should be a bit longer. Say, 5/8" or 3/4". I'm not sure if there is clearance to use socket heads there as well, but it's a common swap on other engines. The SHCS will replace all but the strongest "place" bolts out there - I'd not use them on a ring gear, but I'd use them everywhere else.)

I've not done the swap myself yet - but that's more due to a lack of an NV3550 donor box than anything else. I've taken down the BA-10/5 a number of times now...

5-90

What exactly is wrong with your BA 10/5?

If you are just using it for a daily driver why do you feel you need to swap?

The Pukegoat in my MJ is nothing to brag about, but it gets the job gone. And the only problem I have with it is when it is cold it don't like to shift.

If your tranny isn't too bad, I would just live with it until you need the strength of the AX 15 for some wheeling (or your pukegoat kicks the bucket).

I just put up a bunch of random swap info in this thread:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70388

The BA10/5 is most definitely NOT stronger than the AX15. Due to some strange circumstances I swapped one into my '94 XJ for a brief period. It worked fine for the first two weeks. Then:

- 5th gear lost a few teeth...this made some cool noises going down the highway.
- the shift gate totally disappeared, then came back after I poked it with a screwdriver.
- 5th gear crapped out completely.
- 2nd and 3rd lost syncho capability
- 4th started popping out randomly
- a wonderful coffee-grinder sound followed me everywhere I went

This was all within 2.5 months. When they start to go, it happens FAST.

That trans had 80k miles on it when I installed it. For comparison, the AX15 I took out had 140k on it, original clutch, flawless the entire time. I only removed it because it was 2WD and I was doing a 4WD conversion on the XJ. Got the Peugeot for free...and I guess you get what you pay for.

That explains why I'm looking for an NV3550 - the BA-10/5 just isn't built for my "spirited" driving, and I'm now on my third. I seem to change transmissions when I change clutches...

Dunno if the AW15 will be stronger - and don't plan to find out. I WANT the NV3550 gearbox next time I change out my Peugeot...

5-90

Im just makeing up a list of parts up here, and i just wanted to run it by you guys that have done this swap and see what you think (wheter im missing anything). So far ive done some reading and this is what i came up with.

- Trans
- Bellhouseing off a 94+ (external slave)
- Piolt bearing off a 73 CJ with the 304/3spd.
- Clutch/pressure plate.
- Slave cylinder
- Hyrdulic line
- Trans mount

Im also going to be doing some other things well im down there just to save me the trouble of pulling the tranny again next month...

- resurfaced/new flywheel
- rear main
- already got a new oil pan to go on
- ujoints.


This swaps being done on a 2wd 89 commanche, due to my harsh canadian winters ive had to reinforce my frame so im concerned with my crossmember, it will have to stay in its orginail position idealy. would this be possible, ive read that the houseing on the ax15 is slighty longer (4'' or so) maybe i could fab something up to resue my stock xmemeber position (wishful thinking?).

any questions or comments are mucho appericated.

Thanks for the replys thus far, Ben.

anyone?

BCParker said:

sorry, can't help much, but...

If your current trans is a manual,and in good shape, why do you want to do this swap? I hear that the Puegot is actually a bit stronger than the AX-15

in my book a tranny swap is a high difficulty rating, of course, my definition of difficult is something less than others...

sorry can't be of more help

Click to expand...

lol....lmfao,peugot stronger than ax15!!!Who told you that?
Have you ever done this swap?I have and it isn't "highly difficult"the key is to do your homework and know what parts you need.
Peugot's are JUNK!!That is why(like myself) he wants to swap in the ax.

The parts list you have looks good except you're forgetting the clutch fork...you are going external slave,aren't you??I have the rubber part of the ax15 mount here in good shape...you can have it for $5.00 you pay for the ride.

Too bad you can't move your crossmember back....that was the easiest way for me to make the swap work on my 89.I looked into making the peugot mount work but I said 'ta hell' with it and moved the crossmember back.Make sure you get the transfer case linkage and the mount on the side of the tranny(for the linkage)otherwise you will be doing some fabbing to make the original linkage work.I you have any more questions pm me and I'll try to help as much as possible....

oh,one more thing..make sure you order a clutch kit for a 94(or what ever years the external slave began in) or newer that way you get the right throwout bearing for the external slave setup.

ok thanks for the advice, i left that part out that i plan on ordering parts that are 94+ like you say.

We've done several of these swaps here at my shop.

You need the AX15 /w newer bellhousing lke you stated. You will also need the fork as stated above.

We buy the master/slave cylinder combo from the dealer. Yes, it's kinda spendy (around $140) but it's serviced as a ONE PIECE assembly, master, line, slave, etc. Even comes /w fluid, pre-bled, nothing to mess with, bolt it on and you're done. The pilot bearing is a BCA part #PB77HD. Any auto parts store should be able to get that or cross it. The mount is an Anchor part #2625 which any parts house should be able to get or cross reference. Crossmember bolts back in stock location. You also need to take into consideration that you Peugeot and t-case are 21 spline input, and the newer trans. is 23 spline. You will either need to get a newer t-case or the 23 spline input to swap into yours.

Hope this helps, feel free to PM or respond with any other ???'s.

John

Oh yea the above mentioned 23 spline input gear is in my possesion and I'd be willing to part ways with it for $50.00(you pay ship) if you need it.