long arm some-up please

ok so Im plannin a long arm set-up and I'd like some quick summed up Info....

I'v done lots of research and I know what kits I really want but I also know what kits I can really afford, I'd like to keep the budget under or around $600, I know thats not very high but I'v found a few for that price, I found custom set-ups, and the rockkrawler set-up...anything else out there for that price range? Any quick opinions on It? I noticed that theres only 3 arms and the one upper long arm is not attached to the lower arm, but to the mounts, is this whats called the 3-link set-up?

Also can someone sum up each of these categories so I can understand in a sentence or two?

What are the different long arm set-ups, I see 3link, 4 link can someone quickly explain each...I'v seen tnt and rustys does the lower arms on a xmember and the upper arms attached at the mid lower arm, is this a 4 link set-up?

Whats the difference between each and is there any benefit to one other the other, flex, road manners, price? Sorry for tapin Into whats pry been said a 1000 times but I was lookin for a quick summary of each question, thanks, Josh

I have the TnT kit on my XJ and love. There are other kits out there, and I researched all of them. In my opinion TnT is the best kit on the market for what you get. High clearance arms, BEEFY belly pan/transfer case skid. But thats is just my opinion. If it were me I would save a few more pennies and go for that kit.....

Rockrawlers is a 3 link, TnT and Rusty's is a radius arm set up, Full traction is a 4-link.

x2, i looked and looked, but in the end, the TnT is the best one out there!

jrsxj98 said:

I have the TnT kit on my XJ and love. There are other kits out there, and I researched all of them. In my opinion TnT is the best kit on the market for what you get. High clearance arms, BEEFY belly pan/transfer case skid. But thats is just my opinion. If it were me I would save a few more pennies and go for that kit.....

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ok but nobody answered my question in a quick summary, what is a radius arm set-up, vs. 4 link and 3 link....

If I got this right

RK is a 3 link because It only uses 3 arms seperated from eachother

Rustys and TNT are radius because they use 4 arms but the uppers are attached at the mid lowers...

and 4 link would be 4 arms but all seperate, pretty much like the stock set-up but moved way back on the frame?

so whats the pros and cons to those set-ups?

The 4 link and 3 link would have a natural bind limiting the amount of droop to a point dependent on the length of the uppers and lowers.

Radius does not have this natural bind to stop the axle's droop.

3 link is considered better then 4 link for allowing one tire to go all the way up while the other goes all the way down.
In the same situation Radius with both uppers connected has a natural bind that wants to twist the arms apart. Removing one of the uppers can help.

Radius arms only have 2 frame mounting points the axle, 3 link has 3 and 4 link has 4.

I prefer 4 link for the extra arms connecting my axle to the frame, incase 1 should fail.

The only real 4 links that seem to work at all are the Fulltraction.

The teraflex only lengthens the lowers. if you can imagine the arc your stock uppers make and then the arc your new lowers would make you can understand why these are not desireable.

bigwhitey said:

The 4 link and 3 link would have a natural bind limiting the amount of droop to a point dependent on the length of the uppers and lowers.

Radius does not have this natural bind to stop the axle's droop.

3 link is considered better then 4 link for allowing one tire to go all the way up while the other goes all the way down.
In the same situation Radius with both uppers connected has a natural bind that wants to twist the arms apart. Removing one of the uppers can help.

Radius arms only have 2 frame mounting points the axle, 3 link has 3 and 4 link has 4.

I prefer 4 link for the extra arms connecting my axle to the frame, incase 1 should fail.

The only real 4 links that seem to work at all are the Fulltraction.

The teraflex only lengthens the lowers. if you can imagine the arc your stock uppers make and then the arc your new lowers would make you can understand why these are not desireable.

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yeah what he said.....

I've got the Rock Krawler set-up, if you want to go this route I have some advice, don't. The heims I got were noisey and one blew out. I replaced them for the time being but the setup wont be staying much longer. Take that for what its worth. -steve

HoodRichXJ said:

I've got the Rock Krawler set-up, if you want to go this route I have some advice, don't. The heims I got were noisey and one blew out. I replaced them for the time being but the setup wont be staying much longer. Take that for what its worth. -steve

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I don't know anyting about the quality of any of these kits, but I do know about the quality of the Heims...they are a "get what you pay for" item. Don't cheap out on your suspension links. I would try putting some good quality heims in before scrapping a whole kit, (if you're satisfied with the way it performs otherwise).

Dan

HoodRichXJ said:

I've got the Rock Krawler set-up, if you want to go this route I have some advice, don't. The heims I got were noisey and one blew out. I replaced them for the time being but the setup wont be staying much longer. Take that for what its worth. -steve

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Was this a Gen2 kit? Your the first person I've heard with anything negative to say about it!! I love my RK setup!!

They are a tad loud on really rough roads at low speeds(access trails and stuff) but other then that I haven't found anything to complain about with the RK kit!! If you are getting rid of the Gen2 kit, I'd be intersted in your joints to carry as spares!!

If you have the time and patience you can build a FT style 4-link long arm for about $600. I did on mine and I love the way it works. I just basically copied the mouunting points from pics. Then designed and built my own arms. I used Johnny Joints from AllPro as they use a 5/8" bolt instead of 9/16" (and because i bought them from a friend with a toyota). The JJ are at the frame end then I used a cut downwrangler spring bushing in the front of the lower arm. I am probably going to redo the lower arms next spring. Only because i don't really like the way we have the JJ mounted, It's adjustable in length but not really the strongest setup. Plus the 33" rub a little on the arms (no way are 36" gonna work) and i thing the fixed bushing at the axle is affecting flex somewhat.

Anyway my point is it can be done yourself if you have the time. And i have no fanct tools either. just a torch, welder, drill press, and a bunch of worn out drill bits.

Dingo

Dingo509 said:

If you have the time and patience you can build a FT style 4-link long arm for about $600. I did on mine and I love the way it works. I just basically copied the mouunting points from pics. Then designed and built my own arms. I used Johnny Joints from AllPro as they use a 5/8" bolt instead of 9/16" (and because i bought them from a friend with a toyota). The JJ are at the frame end then I used a cut downwrangler spring bushing in the front of the lower arm. I am probably going to redo the lower arms next spring. Only because i don't really like the way we have the JJ mounted, It's adjustable in length but not really the strongest setup. Plus the 33" rub a little on the arms (no way are 36" gonna work) and i thing the fixed bushing at the axle is affecting flex somewhat.

Anyway my point is it can be done yourself if you have the time. And i have no fanct tools either. just a torch, welder, drill press, and a bunch of worn out drill bits.

Dingo

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why build 'em for $600, and have several issues, when you can spend about the the same and have little to no issues?? and have them delivered to your door?

confused....

Yeah I paid 500 for mine and spent another 100 on greasable bolts, lots of 9/16th bolts and a few jam nuts.

Dookie said:

why build 'em for $600, and have several issues, when you can spend about the the same and have little to no issues?? and have them delivered to your door?

confused....

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You can't have a four link delivered to your door for $600.

Full Traction only sells the complete lift which i don't need. I already have 8" of lift, I just needed long arms. You can have a 3-link delivered for $500, but i like the extra security of the 4-link in case something breaks.

And the only problem I have that the FT kit would not have is the possibility of the lower joints limiting flex. The tire would rub on the FT kit too because of the location of the arms, not my design.

bigwhitey said:

Yeah I paid 500 for mine and spent another 100 on greasable bolts, lots of 9/16th bolts and a few jam nuts.

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IIRC you've got a used Full Traction. Nothing wrong with used. But i didn't have this option a year ago when i made these arms otherwise I would have bought them used.

I don't intend to start an arguement here, I was just stating that it is posible to build a very good suspension for about what you can buy one for. Plus this way I don't have a bunch of parts i'm not going to use setting around collecting dust.

Dingo

Yeah it was brand new but I think the guy must of stole it or something.

The my 33's do rub the tires now and it pppppp me off that I spen so much on it and I shortened my turning radius.

bigwhitey said:

The my 33's do rub the tires now and it pppppp me off that I spen so much on it and I shortened my turning radius.

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That's why im thinking about redoing the arms, I want to put a slight bend in them for more tire clearance. The material I made the arms out of should be fine even with a bend in them. IIRC the wall thickness is about 1/4" thick.

Dingo