lift / front driveline angles

does a lift affect front driveline angles?

i have a 3" lift and i did a tcase drop. when im in reverse i hear some clunking in the front, but this might have been there from before the lift.

Yes, with your lift its probably not worth dealing with if you got the control arm with the kit, if you didnt swap the LCA then your pinion angle will be off

the kit didnt come with control arms, do i need control arms to fix the angle?

what should i do to fix the angle?

Although it may help with the rear driveline angle, a T-case drop compounds the problem in the front. Since the motor mounts stay at the same elevation, dropping the T-case angles the front output upwards slightly with respect to its stock position, which could potentially alter the front driveline geometry independent of the suspension modification. Long story short, lose the T-case drop and do a proper SYE. You can get away with using stock LCA's.

what should i do to fix the angle, i mean if i want to keep the tcase drop?

Lawn Cher' said:

Although it may help with the rear driveline angle, a T-case drop compounds the problem in the front. Since the motor mounts stay at the same elevation, dropping the T-case angles the front output upwards slightly with respect to its stock position, which could potentially alter the front driveline geometry independent of the suspension modification.

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Well said.

FWIW, I run a 3"lift as well. I have stock CA's and no TC drop. No Vibes.

Have you checked all your u-joints,bushings and stuff like that for the source of the clunk?

with any lift, pinion/driveshaft angle increases in front driveshaft. If you have a single U-joint at pinion and a double U-joint (cardan U-joint) at transfer case, you need to align the pinion to driveshaft. A 3" lift shouldn't be a problem for the cardon U-joint with or without a transfer case drop, but will change pinion/drive angle and therefore their alignment.

Rear driveshaft is different. the angle of transfer output/driveshaft angle should be same as driveshaft/pinion angle with at least .5* and not more then 3* angle... well can sometimes get away with 4* or maybe 5*. In other words, output shaft and pinion shaft are aligned with each other, but on different planes.

Putting a SYE on rear transfer output shaft puts a cardan U-joint in place of U-joint, and a slipjoint in driveshaft. It now looks like front driveshaft in design and needs the same kind of alignment as front.
that's my .02 worth

slacker said:

what should i do to fix the angle?

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read here and understand... then look at the things under your jeep and decide what you can do to "fix" the angles...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-shaft/index.html

Remember also that you should shim the stock lower arm mounts to correct your caster angle as lifting will reduce this too.

My clunking usually is my hubs have you thought about your hubs being bad because my hubs only clunk in reverse so you might check that out. Also the sound it make could sound like your drive line or at least on my jeep any way.

Jeep00xj said:

My clunking usually is my hubs have you thought about your hubs being bad because my hubs only clunk in reverse so you might check that out. Also the sound it make could sound like your drive line or at least on my jeep any way.

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hubs = hubcaps?

Hubs = Front bearing assembly..... Jeeps don’t have hubs they have front bearing assemblies sry my bad.... it bolts to your axle and it is what your caliper and wheel bolt up too it is what transfers the power to your wheels... does it clunk more if your wheels are turned when u r going in reverse? They are not that bad priced to buy new ones and they are really easy to change...get Timken they are the only ones that hold up (or so I have found)

P.S. I think that they are about 109 from auto zone