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Overheating woes (good water pump?)

V

VegasAnthony

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Las Vegas
Ok so here goes
its 100 degrees today
I check the antifreeze level its right to the top of the radiator.
The Cherokee has a full load, 2 people, full size 33 and spare, misc. tools and parts and 2 full coolers. This is the 1st time the jeep has had this load in it, it overheated within 1/2 hour of driving. Both fans were running, thermostat was removed when engine was still hot, it was wide open.
Temperature gauge was off the scale, 260+.

Now, get the rig home, let it cool down, take the thermostat housing off, and run the engine with a water hose keeping the radiator full. What comes out of the housing while the engine is running is not a constant stream, there is a 3 second delay between water pushes through the engine.

The water came out colorless, no rust, no debris, I am pretty sure the radiator is 2 to 3 years old.



Just wondering if the stream coming out of the engine should be constant?



Anyone purging there cooling system right now??



94 cherokee
 
sorry about the pos tin the wrong forum

any how 93 4.0auto

anyway no Ididnt burp it but it doesnt change the problem does it ?


air got in the system is that what you are saying
??

the thing is it just did it for no reason ??

other than the heat and wieght issue

something made it over heat

if thereis a leak in the system wont air just get back in
 
If the water pump was bad you would get a leak out of the weap hole, I believe. May want to check the radiator cap at the parts store, they do it for free. And while you are there, get a bottle of cooling system flush. Someone said it was a 7 hour flush or something. I have never used it, but hear it works. Also, in a warm climate you may want to add a bottle of that stuff that is suppossed to cool an extra 20 degrees or something. I forgot the name of it, but I used it in a truck I used to have in Colorado, it worked wonders. I wonder what you guys that go to Moab in the summer do to keep your rigs cool?
 
I believe Prestone makes the 7 hour flush....all you gotta do is follow the directions on the bottle.
Replace ANY hoses that are bulging at the clamp,remove the serp belt,or v belst and see if you can physically move or feel any "wobble"in the waterpump pulley....
If yo've got the closed system w/the "pressure bottle" make sure the "O" ring in the cap is good (plasitc+ extreme heat=NOT GOOD for "O"ring)
There are probably 16gabazillion articles on the "burping" of the closed system
and there are probably 16gabazillion posts by people who have swapped from the closed to the open.....
Personally,I did the swap @ ayear ago,never gets above 210,and I wired the
aux fan to a switch ....Choice is yours,
 
I recently went thru the same, Pull the rad and have it rodded.cost me $75. My rad guy says for unknown reasons he sees more juup rads that plug up. Mine was 30K old 3 row there was about 40% flow thru it. You cant make mine hot now and its 90+ here.
 
ok well after readingabout 30 post on this subject
I have a couple questions

first off I have a open system
92 and above...

can a leak the system create a air bubble that needs to be burped
2. does a open system need to be burped
3. will the trick with drilling 12 oclock and 6 oclock holes work to self burp my system
4.
I figure just to rebuild my cooling system a bit at a time starting with the water pump, hoses , thermostat and cap
then if it overheats again ,,,,,,,,,,,,go with the three core
 
Replace the radiator. Even if it's not clogged, years of scale/lime build-up will reduce cooling capacity. 8-10 years is the best life to expect from an OEM radiator.
 
Replacing all them parts would be real easy including a new fan clutch when the rads out. Bite the bullet and spend the dough, youll be a happy camper. While your at it install a trans cooler.
 
2. does a open system need to be burped
3. will the trick with drilling 12 oclock and 6 oclock holes work to self burp my system



idid find that the cap on the rad is a 16lb cap instead of an OEM 13 lb

wcould that be the culprit???
 
VegasAnthony said:
2. does a open system need to be burped
3. will the trick with drilling 12 oclock and 6 oclock holes work to self burp my system



idid find that the cap on the rad is a 16lb cap instead of an OEM 13 lb

wcould that be the culprit???
Click to expand...
NO. A higher pressure rad cap will INHIBIT boiling and overheating. BTW, all the parts houses list 13lbs as the OEM cap, but all the XJ's I have ever seen with OEM caps are marked 16 lbs.

The later open style systems are "self burping", and do NOT need special procedures like the older closed systems.

The thermostat needs to have special vent holes in it to remove air bubbles correctly. These vents are found on OEM (dealer) thermostats, but not on very many aftermarket ones. Drilling two 1/16" holes in the flange 180 degrees apart, and installing the 'stat with these holes at 12 and 6 o'clock will suffice if you don't have a dealer 'stat.

I think your problem is your rad. Take the rad to a shop, and have the flow and pressure test it to confirm, if you don't just want to plunk down the money on a new rad.

If you decide on a new rad, the guaranteed best choice will be an OEM or OEM equivalent (Modine) 2 row. A lot of the aftermarket 3 rows are hit or miss on quality, and a GOOD 2 row WILL do the job, even in Vegas. (I ought to know, I live in a WORSE place for cooling system challenges---Phoenix!)
 
still not usre if the radiator is the culprit

its seems to come out quite clear when the water is purge thorugh it
can a shop tell ya if it sflowing correctly?

got 16lb rad cap

here is a link to the pics of the accessories to the cooling system

http://www.supermotors.org/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=8251&s=25795#content

also I found this in th bottom of my resevoiur

108_0801.JPG


signed
highly confused
 
I also took some pics of whats in front of the rad

108_0806.JPG


108_0803.JPG


Im sure this limits the flow of air to the rad

but I did overheat at a stoplight

definitly gonna have the radiator checked

no play in the <a style='text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 3px double;' href="http://www.serverlogic3.com/lm/rtl3.asp?si=22&k=water%20pump" onmouseover="window.status='water pump'; return true;" onmouseout="window.status=''; return true;">water pump</a> and the weep hole wasnt leaking

guess Ill check the clutch fan when I start the flush

thanx for all the help

oh btw Im kind aworried about these bends in the system leading to the (im not sure cooler)
in front of the radiator
108_0807.JPG
 
Last edited:
so i figured out that i have a tranny cooler in front of the ac condesor

it lloks pretty beat up
Im wonderingif I dhould bypass it if it doesnt flow correctly plus all the fins are magles along with the ac condensor fins
im sure all of this buts a tweek on the air flow trough the radiator

any opinions?
 
Why is the trans cooler all bent up?

Does the rad (or condenser) look similarly bent? (I cannot tell in the pics.)

If it was my XJ, I would;
1. replace the trans cooler with a new one (aftermarket would be just fine)
2. remove the rad and have it pressure and flow tested
3. straighten the fins on the condenser with a small exacto-knife as best as I cool (This would probably be a two-beer job, since it requires some patience to get the fins straight.)
 
that's oem from a '94??? i agree with the last post, but I'd just replace the rad, (2 beers and i'd probably cut off my thumb with that exacto).... it's 11 years old, and not worth the time to spend tweaking it back to straight fins.
Kinda looks like you hit a pack of bats, lol.

Ever figure out what was in your resevoir???
 
the jeep has some front end damage to itbefore I got it
mismatched paint on the hood, ds fender and door
new ds lower control arm
I think the d 30 might be from a junker

just a lot of stuff under there that looks newer than 94

can I just bypass the tranny cooler to save some cash and have better flow to the rad?
 
it is probably going to be easier to just straighten the fins out, that will do more good, than just bypassing the tranny cooler.... besides, it's probably there because it needed to be... just my .02

you might wanna try raising the rear of the hood, there's a good thread on this site about that, just in case your interested.
 
Check your fan clutch. Pull your radiator, have it rodded, replace your thermostat with a 185F, put on a 13-pound rad cap, replace with 50/50 mix distilled coolant. Good Luck...
 
ROCKWGN said:
Check your fan clutch. Pull your radiator, have it rodded, replace your thermostat with a 185F, put on a 13-pound rad cap, replace with 50/50 mix distilled coolant. Good Luck...
Click to expand...

WHY would you recommend a 13 lb cap when the OEM one is 16 lbs? Going to 13 will make it boil over SOONER.
 
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