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Finally some completed lift/long arm pics!!!

R

RCP Phx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Phoenix,Az
Although Ive still got some tweaking to do, at least its together!
mvc-006f.jpg

The next two check out the control arm vs. the driveshaft angles.

mvc-007f.jpg


mvc-008f.jpg
 
looks good I hope to follow suit in a week or so. I have got all my pieces cut up to length and what not. I just need to find some industrial strength glue to put it all together :)

how did you do the final assembly, leave one side connected at a time or did you just take it all off and put it back together? Did you weld on the upper arm brackets to the lower arm before or after everything was in place?
 
Gary E said:
how did you do the final assembly, leave one side connected at a time or did you just take it all off and put it back together? Did you weld on the upper arm brackets to the lower arm before or after everything was in place?
Click to expand...

One side at a time and lowers on first to locate the uppers.Im going to roll my previous pics(thread) back to the top of the page.Make sure you go to the original post!
 
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Looks great! I like how you upper mount is tucked up. That is pretty cool.
Gary, When I did mine, I connected both ends of the left LCA then the axle end of the left UCA. Then I welded the bracket on the lca in place. I then did the right side the same way. The whole time my wheels were chocked and I slightly jacked the jeep enough to relieve some of the wieght on the LCA bushings. This allowed me to maintain my castor and worked real well.
 
Cool, sounds easy enough, the only problem I forsee is that currently my wheelbase is like 99 and I am building the arms to bring it back to 101, and I know my caster is off a little now. but that technique will get me in the ballpark.
 
GPRSDLYT said:
looks real pro! if i didnt know better id say rock krawler.
Click to expand...

ouch! That hurts! Saying someone's hard work looks like rock krawler....that's just plain mean.
 
That really hurt guys!!!! I actually built 3" of adjustment into mine so plenty to play with,you could always build in more.
 
So did you follow ZPD's design? I was thinking of RE joints instead of Johnny Joints, anyone have input on this?

How did you crossmember do on, and can you run any type of T-case skid anymore? Maybe integrating the LA crossmember and a skid would be a good idea?

Fergie
 
I took a little bit of what I thought was good from everyones designs,and I can take this moment to thank NAXJA and everyone with long arm ideas!!!!!.As I stated earlier I dont even have the measurements written down.I built it as I went along.Part of the unfinished portion is completing the crossmember,I want to add a couple more mounting points and finish the integral skid protection.It an evolving thing!!

BTW:I did use the RE joints(we just always call them JJ's).I by far prefer them do to the ease of adjustment/assembly.
 
If I did it again I would probably use RE's JJ. I am not looking forward to rebuilding my JJ when the time comes.
 
RCP-How do you intend to integrate the skid?
ZPD- What is the advantage to using ACME threaded bolts as oppossed to regular ones?

Fergie
 
Fergie said:
RCP-How do you intend to integrate the skid?
ZPD- What is the advantage to using ACME threaded bolts as oppossed to regular ones?

Fergi
Click to expand...

Some say that acme thread is stronger. While the acutal thread is probably stronger I think that in this application either method would be more than strong enough.
In my experience the acme thread does not bind up like regular thread does ie: it is easier to turn. Ask Neil how well my old adjustable LCA's that he now owns turns. He will probably say that it is real hard to do (they were when I had them a year ago). Whereas I can easily turn the acme thread on my LCA's I have now with just a pair of channel locks even while it is in my jeep. I also made it have minimal back lash so I don't have to have a jam nut but yuo could do that with either method.
The only disadvantage of ACME thread is the price.

HTH
 
The skid protection is a little hard to describe,when I get it done Ill post some pics.As far as the threaded rod goes, I went with the "much" finer thread and that equates to finer "yaw" adjustment,about +1/16" per turn.Considering the size and the fact that were talking about 4140 chromoly under "compression" I dont think it would even be possible to break.Also since I have JJ's there is no need for the threads to turn,Im running a jam nut.


http://www.mcmaster.com/param/asp/p... Studs and Rods;threadrod;255=17499;101=10778
 
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