specific Borla header install questions

hey guys

(yes, ive searched, a lot.)
i got a new borla header and downpipe, ready to go on...(the one on my 96 4.0 cracked

does anyone know a site/link to a good header install?

i think ill be able to get it apart and off, but i would like to know some specifics:

what is the minimum amount of stuff ill have to remove to access and remove the header?

what is the torque spec for the header bolts and intake manifold bolts etc, and also if there is a prefferred tightening pattern on the bolts?

the more anyone can tell me, the better!!

i know i have enough tools/experience to do the job, im really looking for some specific torque specs and any helpful hints/tricks.

thanks in advance!!

CaptTrev

nobody has ANY help/advice for me on this??

You'll need to remove the power steering pump. Fan might have to come out to clear the PS pump bolts. Don't disconnect the pump, just set it up to the side - keep it upright so it doesn't spill.

Then, vaccum lines, wiring, and intake manifold. Don't remove the injector rail or injectors, unplug the wiring and disconnect the fuel line at the rail.

Haynes and the FSM has a torque order diagram for the intake/exhaust manifold bolts - it's critical to do it this way so everything seals properly. I don't have one in front of me, or I'd give it to you.

PB the hell out of the manifold bolts, especially the studs on either end of the block - the back one is a b!*@# to get to, even worse if you snap it off.

http://www.fourwheeler.com/techarticles/129_0311_upgrade/
http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/xjproducts/borlaheader/borlaheaders.htm

At a minumum the Intake will have to come off, as well as the PS bracket/pump, all vacuum lines, fuel rail, injectors and serp belt...It's been a few years since I've done mine so it's a little fuzzy.

I second soaking all manifold bolts....do this for a week prior. I soaked mine through several heat/cool cycles and had no problems.

I would also recommend a new set of injector O-Rings. This is a 10.00 set that gives great peace of mind in the long run.


Good luck!

thank you XJack and GI-John!


i have the haynes manual, it shows proper tightening procedure (start in the middle, and then go back and forth on either sideof the middle, working your way out to the ends), but it doesnt list any torque specs for the bolts.

does any have these #s for me, PLEASE? :wave:

ive been soaking all of the bolts in PB blaster for the past couple days...
im ripping into this tomorrow morning, so i really need to know the torque values for those bolts.

please help me!

(i promise ill get the FSM next time i see it on ebay :laugh3:

thanks in advance!!!!

CaptTrev

Starting at the top center bolt (between the twin #3/#4)
clockwise pattern

according to Haynes Manual:

30 ft/lb #1 exhaust manifold bolt

all others 23 ft/lb

As My mind clears, I remember that there are 2 different gaskets....MAKE SURE that you match them up, otherwise you will have problems.

It is also a really good Idea to mark each line you disconnect with tape, etc. this makes it easy when you are done. You may want to get a new O2 sensor also.


Again, good luck!

well, i did it!!!

total time: 5 hours


a few comments. . .

i was amazed to see how much "tar" and filth was in the intake manifold ports....i cleaned it the best i could

i think the worst part of the whole thing was struggling with (coming off and going back on) the 4 lower manifold bolts.
they came off ok, but the new borla manifold hugs the block so closely....it was near impossible to get those things back on, much les torqued properly--so i did those by feel....

i forgot what a PITA that serpentine belt is to put back on . ..

install went well, only real problem is that the new borla downpipe does not mate up correctly with the carsound cat opening--it is like 1/16" too small inside the cat's flange...ARGH!!!!

so im bringing it to an exhaust shopt tomorrow to have them button it up (and also cut off the "s" turn on the tip of my borla exhaust, and make it straight so i have more clearance to install a shackle life inthe rear end


this was definately a big job though.....glad its over........mostly

CaptTrev