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at what point do you need a new front driveshaft?

kmagnuss_2000

NAXJA Forum User
Location
North Port, FL
So I just added some more lift to the front of the 99, and I was just wondering if there is a point in the inchitus that one would require a new, longer front driveshaft?

Oh, one more thing...how do I get the front d/s to stop vibrating? I added about 6" lift and LCA's, but no UCA's. Is that what I need, then a good alignment?

thanks.

-Keith
 
most people 3" + in lift get an SYE (slip yoke eliminator) new CV Driveshaft or instead of the SYE a transfer case drop but the SYE an CV are the best way in my opinion If I were you I would get an SYE an new driveshaft an probably some UCA wouldnt hurt Rubicon Express an Tom Woods are two good companys that make theses products hope this Helps!

TORX

Also do a search for SYE, or vibration you will get a TON of info
 
So I just added some more lift to the front of the 99, and I was just wondering if there is a point in the inchitus that one would require a new, longer front driveshaft?

Oh, one more thing...how do I get the front d/s to stop vibrating? I added about 6" lift and LCA's, but no UCA's. Is that what I need, then a good alignment?

thanks.

-Keith
____________________________________
i believe its the front axle his talking about.
 
Keith, the thing about the front is that it's not how LONG of a d/s you'll need, but how far it'll compress. I'm on 6" of lift with a completely stock driveshaft. I've also got longer UCAs and LCAs to keep the wheel centered in the wheel well.

Take a look at the suspension from the side. As your suspension extends, the front axle will pull back towards the transfercase. This is why compressed length is important, if your d/s won't compress far enough, you'll pound it right back into your transfercase.

As far as stopping vibes........ that's another story. The stock front d/s is a single u-joint at the axle, and a constant velocity style at the tcase. This means that the normal operating angle at the lower u-joint should be zero, or straight. As you lift an XJ, you want to keep your caster in the 5 degree range, and as a result, the lower u-joint now gets a few degrees of bend. How do you get around this? Pull the front d/s, put offset balljoints in, cut the Cs off and rotate them, etc. There are quite a few options.

BTW, at 6" of lift, I'd definitely suggest replacing both upper and lower control arms. If you're still running stock UCAs, your caster is going to be all out of whack.
 
My 98 XJ is at 5.5" of lift and still using the stock front ds (although it has been completely rebuilt) and my caster is 5.1*; with almost no vibrations. Need to keep front tires in balance to remaining vibrations.
Installing adjustable LCAs and UCAs will provide adjustment to center the tires in the wheel well, rotate (clock) the front differential to ensure the a ZERO degree at the U-joint and provide as close to 5* caster as possible (less caster give a loose floating feeling while driving on the highway).

Charles
 
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