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How to clean injectors outside the truck.

Fletch

NAXJA Forum User
Location
CT
So, I have narrowed the issues of my new engine to something fuel related. It is very very hard to start, and when it does it wont rev past 1500 without stumbling/missing and backfireing. I was wondering if there is a way to clean the injectors besides something that requires the engine to run.

Thanks,
Kevin
 
Fletch said:
So, I have narrowed the issues of my new engine to something fuel related. It is very very hard to start, and when it does it wont rev past 1500 without stumbling/missing and backfireing. I was wondering if there is a way to clean the injectors besides something that requires the engine to run.

Thanks,
Kevin
A shop? As far as i know thats the best way. only cost me 40$ to have 8 done locally.
 
The better shops clean them on a fixture that also allows them and you to see what kind of pattern they are spraying, that is the best way to do it. Second best way is with the 3M kit that attaches to the fuel rail and has a can of fuel/cleaner that runs about 20 min or so. You need to disconnect the fuel pump and pull it's fuse. I use one once a year on my 98, in between I use Chevron Techron or the valvoline gold that costs about $6-8 a bottle...
The 3M kit is an investment, cost is about $100 with all the adapters, it can be used on multiple engines, refills are about $24 ea for the 'kit' which has the cannister, TB cleaner and fuel tank additive...
 
RichP said:
The better shops clean them on a fixture that also allows them and you to see what kind of pattern they are spraying, that is the best way to do it. Second best way is with the 3M kit that attaches to the fuel rail and has a can of fuel/cleaner that runs about 20 min or so. You need to disconnect the fuel pump and pull it's fuse. I use one once a year on my 98, in between I use Chevron Techron or the valvoline gold that costs about $6-8 a bottle...
The 3M kit is an investment, cost is about $100 with all the adapters, it can be used on multiple engines, refills are about $24 ea for the 'kit' which has the cannister, TB cleaner and fuel tank additive...
Where can get the thingy majig?
 
imma honky said:
Where can get the thingy majig?

My neighbor picked his up at napa, we were both watching the same shadetree mechanic where they showed how to use it on TNN. I've gotten the refils at NAPA and national auto...I just borrow his...
 
Any type of fuel injector cleaning is better than no cleaning...however, some processes and products are far superior to others. Bench cleaning injectors was state of the art in the late 80's to mid 90's. There was a time when the injector tips became coated with deposits from a number of sources...one of which was the ancient additive package comprised primarily of gum and varnish solvents and surfactants that were woefully inadequate at keeping even old carburetors clean, much less a group of injectors. That was then...this is now. Four car makers have banded together to drive the U.S. refiners to upgrade their additive packages. The website www.toptiergas.com will inform you of the who, what, when, where and why of the new additive packages.

One of the most common misconceptions is that the injector tip is the final component in the fuel delivery system...but, it's not. It is true that the injector must produce a fine mist of fuel droplets properly aimed down into the intake valve pocket. There, in the valve pocket, is the final component of the fuel delivery system...the back side of the intake valve. To make a long story short, the mist of droplets MUST find a hot, clean, smooth surface to flash off into a vapor, or gasoline steam, if you please. This is the proper state for the fuel to enter the combustion chamber. I will forgo the the importance of a clean induction system, volumetric efficiency and controlled cylinder turbulence here, however, clean injectors spraying properly aimed and size of droplets on a rough, dirty...essentially insulated valve cannot make the final transformation to highly explosive gasoline steam.

Extended cold engine cranking times, start and stall, rough cold idle, stalling upon gear engagement, hesitation, low power, reduced fuel economy and increased emissions are symptoms of induction system, fuel system and combustion chamber deposits.

You can buy a can of bug spray at the local grocery store and it will kill some bugs...but I guarantee you that the active chemistry in that aerosol can is far different than the chemicals that a professional exterminator has in the tank on his back. Any chemistry you can walk into a parts store and lay your hands on is, at best, an advanced level consumer strength. And much of it is kerosene (one company proudly advertises that their product is, "Made With Jet Fuel"...JP4 is extremely well filtered kerosene) or naphthalene (Zippo/Ronson cigarette lighter fluid), according to the Material Safety Data Sheets available for these products. Be careful what you buy!

Look for products that have high concentrations of amine complexes, particularly polyetheramine. Soluble fuel filter debris/deposits will be removed and soluble debris/deposits will be removed from the injector inlet filters. The injector tips, intake valve pockets, intake valves and combustion chambers will be cleaned. And...if there are professional strength concentration levels of polyetheramine in the product you select, the leading edge of the oxygen sensors and catalytic converters will also be cleaned.

Good luck,
Mike
[email protected]
 
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