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Does this spindle need to be replaced or sanded?

basalt51

basalt51

NAXJA Member #761
Location
Woodland, CA
Does this spindle need to be replaced or sanded? (D44)

I decided to inspect my driver's side wheel bearings since the passenger side had to be replaced when the lockout blew a few weeks ago. I also figured since I had never taken a hub apart before, I better learn before I really need to. I decided not to replace the races since they looked pretty good (I think), though they do have a band where bearings were riding. It seems very smooth. The outer bearing looked a little pitted, inner seemed pretty good. I cleaned off the spindle and here's what it looks like:

107_0731.JPG


107_0732.JPG


Both surfaces where the bearings ride feel smooth. Is it ok?

Is there another bearing inside the spindle? Should I check it while I'm this far into it? I do need to get it back together tonight so I can get to work.

Thanks!!

I am installing new bearings BTW. Just not the races since that would require a machine shop. Tracking down the right bearings and seal was fun too since I didn't really know what I had :D
 
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Mine looked about the same and haven't spun yet.

What are you talking about needed a machine shop to change the races. What hubs are you running?

Every Ford, Chevy, Dodge (don't know about the old 5x4.5 patter full time axles), and Jeep D44 I've had appart you could just pound the races out with a punch. I definately wouldn't change the bearings without races.
 
I thought the races had to be pressed back in?
 
basalt51 said:
I thought the races had to be pressed back in?
Click to expand...

Very easy to do with a brass punch, I did both sides on mine in about 20 mins(that's removing and re-installing) and it was the first time I'd ever done it.

Ary
 
Exactly. A race driver makes thing so easy too.

Also, check the spindle bearings and seals while your there. They are the ones the axle shaft goes through inside the bearing. The kits (seals and bearings) are only like $13 each.
 
Crap, ok. Guess I better get my ass to Autozone before they close then. So to get to the spindle bearings I just need to undo the bolts holding it on and whack it silly with a dead blow hammer right?

Thanks for the help.
 
Yeh, they've alway's been a pain for me to get off. Sometimes a wood block and regular hammer works better.
 
It came right off actually so thats good. It'll get a liberal helping of anti-seize when it goes back on. That little bearing (spindle bearing) looks like its going to be difficult to get out with just a punch. Any tricks?

BTW, it seems I have chevy spindles with the ford hub and bearings.

At this point should the axle just come right out? I tried and the ears were to big to fit through the knuckle. I think I better have the hole in the knuckle enlarged so I don't have to take it off to change a shaft and/or put CTMs to reduce the breakage?

Thanks again!
 
That hole centers the spindle. I wouldn't have it enlarged. If I remember correctly you will have a mix of Chevy and Ford bearings to use the Ford hub and Chevy Spindle.

Make sure the knuckle is straight and the shafts should come right out. That's how they went in. Unless the ears are spread they will come out.
 
if you have hi-steer and 5x5.5 bolt pattern you should have chevy spindles with Ford hubs. I'm still piecing mine together, so I'm not sure if the ears should fit through the knuckle, but I would think they should...

As for the shaft bearing inside the spindle, I don't know how to do that one since I don't have chevy spindles yet(got ford spindles but they came new in box so I know they're good). Guess I'm not much help this time :p

Ary

Edit: Lincoln, the Ford and Chevy bearings are the same, Timken sets 37 and 45 IIRC correctly
 
Here's the deal. Napa's was closed. Autozone didn't have the bearing in their computer, Kragen had a chicago rawhide bearing which I bought. No one (including home depot) had a brass drift or punch. I have some cold chisels I can use to get them out, and I can rent a race/bearing installer from autozone to install them.

So, do I install the CR bearing or make my wife get a ride to work and get a timken bearing from Napa tomorrow? I have a harbor freight near my work so getting any other necessary tools shouldn't be a problem tomorrow.

EDIT: for my set-up I had to use the Ford inner bearing/race and seal which is Set 37 which inludes bearing LM501349 and race LM501310. Chevy and ford use the same outer bearing which was Set 45 which includes bearing LM603049 and race LM603011. The inner seal that was on the axle was the Ford seal #4250. My axle is a dynatrac HPd44 set-up for a TJ with 5on5.5" pattern. There, now I have a permanent record of what bearings and seals I have on NAXJA! :clap:
 
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Dunno how much agony having your wife get a ride tomorrow is worth, but if it were me, I'd wait till tomorrow and do it "right". I don't have experience with CR or Timken one way or the other, but I've always been told get Timken whenever possible.... Just my .02

Ary
 
The more she has to get a ride, and the madder she gets, the closer I am to buying a crappy "spare" car for when the XJ is in the "Garage" :D I've had my eye on a couple beat-up samurais and grand waggoneers :shhh:

I recommend noone do this kinda crap to their daily driver if they MUST have a car for work.
 
basalt51 said:
The more she has to get a ride, and the madder she gets, the closer I am to buying a crappy "spare" car for when the XJ is in the "Garage" :D I've had my eye on a couple beat-up samurais and grand waggoneers :shhh:

I recommend noone do this kinda crap to their daily driver if they MUST have a car for work.
Click to expand...

Sounds like a good excuse to buy a motorcycle :greensmok
Mike B.
 
A good trick to help get bearing races back in is to freeze them...shrinks em up a little...make sure the bore is clean with absolutely no sign of burring or sharp edges expecially at the throat of the bore.
 
Freezing the race does work. Good tip.

I would just make sure there aren't any burrs and put that thing back together. If there are burrs use very fine emory(sp?) cloth to clean it up.
 
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Man, tracking down that little bearing has been a pain in the butt. The chicago Rawhide one was $7 or something. Napa would have to order it but they want $66 and can't even tell me who made it. Local dealer wants $23 for another unknown brand but also doesn't have it in stock WTF!! Aren't there a billion 4x4 chevy's!?! Some local farm/truck shop had a BCA one which I picked up also to see if it looked any better than the CR one. Just talked to another napa that has 2 Napa brand bearings that he thinks are made by federal. So, which should I use? The one in it looks pretty good too so can I just clean it with brake cleaner and pack it in place?

Thanks for all your help!!!! Just trying to do it right the first time :D
 
basalt51 said:
EDIT: for my set-up I had to use the Ford inner bearing/race and seal which is Set 37 which inludes bearing LM501349 and race LM501310. Chevy and ford use the same outer bearing which was Set 45 which includes bearing LM603049 and race LM603011. The inner seal that was on the axle was the Ford seal #4250. :clap:
Click to expand...

After doing a little more research I found that chevy spindles do use the same bearings as the ford from~'73 until '78 when they changed to the larger inner bearing. :D
 
Thanks fo that link Lincoln. It's got all the parts right there on the list. It will be very handy for next time. I just decided to go with the federal/BCA bearing and its all back together! Well the hub is anyways :D
 
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