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Build a d30, Disco or Nondisco?

Israel

NAXJA Forum User
I have both a disco and a nondisco axle available to me and I'm trying to decide which one to put under my jeep. It only has to last for a year or so while I build my full width ford axles, but I don't want to have to light foot my wheeling until then too much. I've heard the discos can be really nice if you do them right, but that the nondiscos are stronger. If it matters, I'm thinking of swapping to alloy shafts and the 760 joints. So... What would you do?
 
If you plan on a non-selectable (detroit, etc.) locker I would go disco. If you're going to put in a selectable (ARB, OX, etc.), no locker, or hubs I'd go non-disco. I prefer the simplicity and reliability of the non-disco.
 
I prefer non-disco even with my detroit. The less parts & weak links to break the better IMO.
 
That's a silly question. Use the hi-pinion disco D30 housing, it's stronger too because of the extra material around the long side tube. Take the shafts out of the l/p D30 to get the 297/760x size ujoints, grind them for snap rings & go wheeling! You'll need the inner seal from Warn that fits behind the passenger side carrier bearing, easy install.

-jb
 
vintagespeed said:
That's a silly question. Use the hi-pinion disco D30 housing, it's stronger too because of the extra material around the long side tube. Take the shafts out of the l/p D30 to get the 297/760x size ujoints, grind them for snap rings & go wheeling! You'll need the inner seal from Warn that fits behind the passenger side carrier bearing, easy install.

-jb


Is Warn the only one who makes The inner seal, or it it more or less just part of any HP D30 Non- Disco gear install kit?
 
A chuck; I’m sure that the warn seal is just a Chicago Rawhide brand seal with a price markup if you can get the CR PN I can proly get you one for a few bucks.
 
Bronco said:
A chuck; I’m sure that the warn seal is just a Chicago Rawhide brand seal with a price markup if you can get the CR PN I can proly get you one for a few bucks.


I'm about ready to regear this Dsico D30, I have a new master install kit with the 4.88 gears. I'm also going to swap in the axles, knuckles and such from my TJ axle. So is there a seal or bearing needed at the shift motor. Or is everything i have in the Master Kit enough to do the conversion?
 
Is your TJ stuff disco or non disco? Dose your Master install kit have shaft seals? With the non disco the seal is at the pumpkin but in the disco its right outside the shift thing. I don’t know this for sure but I assume that there is a place for the seal at the pumpkin even on the non disco axel. If that is the case it seams like you would have no prob if you put non disco shafts in a disco axel and all you would have to do is put a new seal at the pumpkin and find a way to cover the shifter hole.
 
Bronco said:
Is your TJ stuff disco or non disco? Dose your Master install kit have shaft seals? With the non disco the seal is at the pumpkin but in the disco its right outside the shift thing. I don’t know this for sure but I assume that there is a place for the seal at the pumpkin even on the non disco axel. If that is the case it seams like you would have no prob if you put non disco shafts in a disco axel and all you would have to do is put a new seal at the pumpkin and find a way to cover the shifter hole.

No the disco housing does NOT have a factory machined seal surface at the diff. This is why you need the special Warn inner axle seal, it's made to fit inside the rough unmachined ID of the tube.

TJ outers are the same as XJ outers so what's the point in swapping them?

Yes as far as I know, Warn is the only Co. that makes the inner seal. They use it in their alloy axle 'conversion' kit that swaps out the disco axle.

-jb
 
ChuckD said:
As far as I know the early outer knouckles are not the same as the later ones. Early Rotors do not match up to the later hubs ect... I have talked to a number who have doen the swap, and that from there expierience.

Thanks, for the tip on the inner seal. Now I just have to find a Warn dealer so I can get one.

Well yes the hubs are different on late models, as are the rotors but my point was that the stubs are the same so what's the point in changing anything past the knuckle? The discs aren't any better, the hubs aren't any better, the knuckle isn't hi-steer or anything (WJ are) so what's the freakin point in swapping outers? :confused:

My old h/p D30 was used and abused, OTK hi steer, above the axle TB, Warn inners & outers, Warn 5 x 4.5 hub conversion, locked w/4.56s.

Maybe I'm just missing the point. What is it?

-jb
 
No, a lot of my knowledge comes from the forums. Maybe one of the threads I remember did not get as specific as you. Thanks for the clarification! That will save me a lot of un-needed work.

Do you have any advise on truss the Disco D30? I have some 3x3x3/16 angle laying around. Or I have read about getting a piece of schedule 80, cut it in half, weld it between the pumpkin and the shift motor.
 
ChuckD said:
No, a lot of my knowledge comes from the forums. Maybe one of the threads I remember did not get as specific as you. Thanks for the clarification! That will save me a lot of un-needed work.

Do you have any advise on truss the Disco D30? I have some 3x3x3/16 angle laying around. Or I have read about getting a piece of schedule 80, cut it in half, weld it between the pumpkin and the shift motor.

Well I haven't ever trussed a D30, personally I think if you're doing stuff that needs a truss than the D30 isn't probably the right choice. The balljoints suck compared to a D44 or a D60 so you'll most likely shear off the balljoints & ears before you bend the housing.

However, since I've been welding up my bridge on my D44 front all day and tubing was involved here's my advice. Take a piece of 2.5" or 3" .188 tubing & split it down the middle, notch it to fit the center section & disco housing with a tight fit to the tube & weld the hell out of it. I believe the tubes are like 3/8" so take it easy on the heat & weld in sections.

-jb
 
Has anyone ever seen one of these “warn seals” or better yet have a picture. What color are they? I’m still betting that Warn dose not make the seal. There are only a few companies that make seals on a big scale. It wouldn’t make much sense for warn to tool up to make them when they could just find an off the shelf one and toss it in there kit.

Hay Chuck, if your D30 has the carrier out and you have a caliper or something could you get me some measurements of the shaft OD and the ID of the tube just outside where the bearing sits. Even if Warn dose make there own I have a Chicago Rawhide catalog and I’m sure they make one that will do the job.
 
Bronco said:
Has anyone ever seen one of these “warn seals” or better yet have a picture. What color are they? I’m still betting that Warn dose not make the seal. There are only a few companies that make seals on a big scale. It wouldn’t make much sense for warn to tool up to make them when they could just find an off the shelf one and toss it in there kit.

Hay Chuck, if your D30 has the carrier out and you have a caliper or something could you get me some measurements of the shaft OD and the ID of the tube just outside where the bearing sits. Even if Warn dose make there own I have a Chicago Rawhide catalog and I’m sure they make one that will do the job.

I hear ya Mark, Ryan Brown is working on getting me the part number. I'll be getting into the diff this Friday. By then if I don't have the part number. I'll shoot you some measurements.
 
The seal is green on the metal face. I have one here somewhere.

Why not just call Warn & order one up, they're $12 I think.

-jb
 
Well I guess just because it’s a $3 seal. If its green and brown it almost currently a CR seal. It should have a four or five digit number on it in light white. If you could get me the number off yours I would be grateful.
 
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