• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

dana 44 rear disc brake conv.

DC4WD, Call or e-mail and inquire about the Terra disk brake kit.

Found it was less than parting it out myself.

Bones :skull1:
 
ZJ disk brakes are supposedly a direct bolt in.
 
Lucas said:
ZJ disk brakes are supposedly a direct bolt in.

Negative ghostrider. They do not bolt in. there is some fab work that must be done but not to bad. I got mine done but still need an adj. valve so I can get more fluid going to the rear of the XJ.
One of these days I will have my write up done.
 
I am in the middle of this swap myself - it's true, the bolt pattern on the D44 flange is different than the flange pattern on the ZJ parts. Use TJ D44 retainer plates & change the pattern and you are there. FWIW I am changing the pattern on the axle housing, but I have seen the swap done by changing the pattern on the ZJ parts.

Bucky: what you are saying is that you added the ZJ disc's and changed nothing else & now you feel you need more fluid pressure at the rear?
 
There's an O-ring in the combination valve that you can remove that'll give you more flow to the rear. I've got a rear end in my rec room (you might be a redneck if...) that I'm building that'll have a set of discs on it, so I haven't tried this yet. You might also check out this webpage. http://www.stu-offroad.com/brakeconv/bc-6.htm
 
Very interesting...


You may be wondering why I swapped the combination valves after having run the o-ring modification for more than a year. One thing I noticed, since the disc brake conversion, was that my rear wheels were abnormally warm (compared to the front wheels). This was more prevalent in the warmer months when the air temp did little to help dissipate the heat. It is my assumption that the TJ combination valve, which was designed for rear drum brakes, was keeping several pounds of residual pressure (normal for drum brakes) on the rear calipers and thus causing just a little bit of friction induced heat.
 
I had mine done... using weld on caliper brackets and wrangler calipers and rotors.

As soon as I splurge for a digi cam I will have pics. I too want the TSM adj. valve for the rear...
 
blah blah blah I am poppobear. j/k man.

I converted the XJ D44 over to the ZJ pattern by drilling holes in the axle housing. I will post pics some day if I ever get around to it.
 
XJWheelie said:
I've got a rear end in my rec room (you might be a redneck if...) that I'm building that'll have a set of discs on it,
I've got one I'm putting discs on sitting in my laundry room. :D 9" with discs in progress, I think I'll drill out the second rotor this afternoon and get started on the second caliper bracket.
 
Can anyone here who has done the ZJ or Explorer rear disc brake swap speak to valving issues? Drum brakes require more residual pressure than disc, so you should be experiencing a lot of drag on your discs - what did you do about this?

Also, has anyone tried to use a ZJ disc brake booster & master cyl. in their XJ with this swap? It would seem the obvious thing to do :confused:
I'll be finishing up my D44 w/ ZJ discs soon for my '90 model, and I would like to go ahead and budget for such.
Or does just removing the o-ring & using a proportioning valve really work? This is a DD and needs to work Right :)
 
I posted a reply earlier with a website that discusses brake proportioning in detail. Check it out and see if it answers your question. My rear dif is still in the rec room, but will hopefully be on the Jeep by this summer. Depends upon how much my divorce ends up costing me :wow:

And the rear dif went to the rec room after the seperation, so it's not the cause!
 
XJWheelie said:
... Depends upon how much my divorce ends up costing me :wow:

QUOTE]

Ouch - good luck with that, dude.

I read the article you linked before I posted. That fellow did the o-ring trick & left it that way for over a year, then changed to a ZJ valve (believe it was) All this was on a TJ.
What I'm fishing for is for someone to speak up & say they did the ZJ rear disc swap on an XJ and swapped over the ZJ dual-diaphram booster along with the valve. If the booster & m.c. setup is like the ~'95 year XJ swap, this would be the perfect upgrade to fix all this. :cool:
 
OILBURNER said:
XJWheelie said:
... Depends upon how much my divorce ends up costing me :wow:

QUOTE]

Ouch - good luck with that, dude.

I read the article you linked before I posted. That fellow did the o-ring trick & left it that way for over a year, then changed to a ZJ valve (believe it was) All this was on a TJ.
What I'm fishing for is for someone to speak up & say they did the ZJ rear disc swap on an XJ and swapped over the ZJ dual-diaphram booster along with the valve. If the booster & m.c. setup is like the ~'95 year XJ swap, this would be the perfect upgrade to fix all this. :cool:

My understanding is that the booster/mc are identical to the XJ, and in some instances the same part #. I would still go with the 95-96 booster, as the 97+ XJ and possibly other ZJ boosters have the longer pedal rod. I did the booster swap in a couple of ours in my 91 XJ with a 96 booster. I'm in a 99 XJ now, but swapped my rear discs over and will be going with a ZJ prop valve soon. I havn't pulled the o-ring, and I haven't noted any real problems with the stock set up + rear discs, except that my pedal feel is not as good as stock - an inch or so of play at the top. Hope it helps!
 
Fellas, great advice, I am looking to just buy the conversion b/c I just dont have the time anymore to go from auto parts stores and salvage yards. I am def. willing to spend the few extra bucks for convenience.
 
Back
Top