• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Diamond Plate

X

XJWheelie

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Murfreesboro, TN
How do you bend and attach diamond plate to an XJ? I want to paint it black, but I know that I'll wind up re-painting it every time that I go off road, any ideas on how to keep it black? Also, how do you prevent rust from forming between the plating and the body after you've got it attached?
 
Well first off you need to scuff the surface of the metal. the deeper the scuff the better but remeber you want it to look decent after you paint it. I scuff with 60 grit but I have my exterior pices covered in Line-X. If you are just going to rattle can start by cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol or Sikkens degreaser or PPG degreaser. Then shoot the piece with etching primer available at high quality parts stores many differnt brands available in rattle can. Then spray with two coats of primer leting the primer flash off between coates. Then after second coat of primer flashes off then paint with two coats of what ever final color is desired letting paint flash off between coats . Yeah I know it sounds like a lot of work and anal but I only have to paint my stuff once. If the plating is gonna get hit by rocks and road debris constantly you may want to look into Line-X $$$$$.

Joe
 
One of the rigs at Winterfest had alum. diamond plate on the rocker panels. He attached it with heavy duty double stick tape (if I remember correctly). Don't remember who's rig it was or I would have you PM him. Maybe someone out there knows who had the rig with this set up and ran Orange on Saturday Morning.
 
How do you bend it? Aluminum plate can be bent in a doorframe, but I'd warn against using a hollow-core door to press it.

I've seen some write-ups from CJ/Wrangler sites about attaching diamond-plate and I recall someone (Stu-offroad, perhaps?) thoroughly cleaning the facing surfaces, and I believe using black RTV to hold it and seal the edges.
 
I just did my rear quarter panels with 14 gauge raw steel diamond plate. I first scuffed the diamond plate with steel wool then I degreased with engine degreaser. I then put 2 coats of primer on. To attach it I put the diamond plate on the curb and stood on it to get the proper bend... I call this a 220 bend... all 220 pounds on the steel will form it just right! Then I Pre-drilled holes on the diamond plate 2 inches apart with a 30 drill bit (have a few spares). Then I scuffed the rear quarter panel and back of diamond plate with a grinder. Then I used a metal to metal epoxy (from pep boys for $3.99) on the back of the diamond plate and then pressed the diamond plate on the quarter panel with the delicate 220 procedure for about 30 seconds. Now it it good to a extra set of hands now drill a hole through one of the predrilled holes and rear quarter panel and now pop rivit one corner so you can get it aligned right and pop rivit away.... her now look


http://community.webshots.com/album/118904863qguXXK

Shannon
 
I've sanblasted Aluminum before and it is not pretty. But then again I have no idea If the material he is dealing with will be aluminum or steel I just assumed alluminum. oops!
Joe
 
dude just leave it chrome and shinny man. that way it will b bling bling and u can look like a gangsta yo! :peace: out doggy

stoney :dunce:
 
I didn't even know that aluminum diamond plate existed! Seems like that would have a huge weight advantage, but is there a downside? What are the positive and negative aspects of both steel and aluminum?
 
SOOLONG said:
I've sanblasted Aluminum before and it is not pretty. But then again I have no idea If the material he is dealing with will be aluminum or steel I just assumed alluminum. oops!
Joe
Click to expand...
i agree it`s not pretty, until you lay the paint on....
i just assumed aluminum as well.......would work with steel though
 
aluminum is about 1/3 as rigid as steel, it is also aobut 1/3 the weight. attaching aluminum to steel directly can lead to galvanodynamic corrosion. the thermal conductivity of aluminum is nearly 4.5 times that of steel.

one thing to remember about steel is that in cyclic loading conditions, fatigue, if the stresses are low enough the steel will never fail and crack. this is called an endurance limit. However, aluminum has no such limit..so it will eventually fail under all loading conditions. Try not to think of this next time youre in an airplane...hehe

go with steel if youre going to be bashing it....better yet, go with Titanium...its 1/2 way in between steel and aluminum in terms of weight vs. rigidity and yielding.

bead blastiging aluminum is not as agressive as sand and it looks great too.

-cheers
-J
 
Last edited:
jjvande said:
attaching aluminum to steel directly can lead to galvanodynamic corrosion

I'd forgotten about that. Given that I'm breaking, bending, or tearing something every time that I go off road steel sounds like the best answer. Now the only question is how to bend it? Oh, I forgot, does this stuff come in different thicknesses? If so what should I look for?
Click to expand...
 
You can anneal aluminum by using an acetylene torch...cold smokey flame...don't do it in your garage unless you want soot everywhere...don't overheat it...when it has a coating of soot let it cool naturally...you can bend smaller pieces by hand...clean the pieces up real good before painting.

I like the black silicone attachment method...coat the whole back, not just the edges..takes a while to dry...but once it does its on there.
 
jjvande said:
aluminum is about 1/3 as rigid as steel, it is also aobut 1/3 lb the weight
Click to expand...

you CANNOT lump all types of aluminum in your 1/3-1/3 class description....

your statement is both true, and totally FALSE especially when you are trying to compare it to a whole family of steels....
 
My diamondplate rockerpanels are stuck on with 3M double sided adhesive tape. I had just repainted my jeep, waited for a warm day, cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and taped the suckers on. Two years later there's still no way they're coming off unless I cut through the tape.
I bent all mine with a sheetmetal brake, There's not a lot of bends and most sheet metal shops will do if for cheap.
 
Don't try bending tempered aluminum tread plate in a door frame or on the curb. I had a friend try to bend 3/8" thick plate for the rear quarter panel in a brake, and it broke. :) 1/8" normal aluminum diamond plate I bent on the welding table edge with a hammer.
I predrilled many holes on the plate with a drill press, and then drilled corresponding holes in the door and used zinc coated sheet metal screws. It should be an galvanic nightmare. :) As dry as it is here, it should last for ten years.

Fred
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Anak
I was bummed John beat me to that Renix that wouldn't pass smog...
Replies
4
Views
92
Bent
Bent
B
Need help with this HACK job
Replies
7
Views
2K
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
Root Moose
Mild Lifting with OEM Parts
Replies
12
Views
1K
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
O
Brake failure light randomly coming on
Replies
4
Views
2K
RCP Phx
R
X
drivers door switches only work on accessory mode
Replies
7
Views
1K
XJJeepNewb
X
Back
Top