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Weld cratique......

Ghost

Member Number 257
NAXJA Member
Any better?

927068TBBNewWelds.JPG
 
one pass in one inch or so stiches
 
I would like to see some passes on flat steel first. you know what they say... crawl before you walk. so before you join two more pieces of metal. draw me a straight line from one edge of the plate to the other edge without breaks.
 
Rawbrown said:
I would like to see some passes on flat steel first. you know what they say... crawl before you walk. so before you join two more pieces of metal. draw me a straight line from one edge of the plate to the other edge without breaks.
i agree...and maybe watch the pool a little closer...i would say that is one pass, but i might be mistaken. i would grind that out and try again if material is a concern.
 
Looking much better than before :D

Just a little suggestion..

You are using a little MIG with some flux cored wire right? I also have one of those little machines and I've found a couple things that may help you with your flux core wire.

1. You want to pull the weld puddle a bit. i.e. have the head in front of the weld puddle pointing back toward it slightly.

2. Use a weaving motion going slowly from one material piece to the other while delaying just slightly at the joint.

3. Along with the weaving I find the best weld profile is achieved if you also rotate the gun slightly...this might be hard to explain so take it easy on me :D If you hold the gun so that the gun handle parallel with the joint as you weave to the right rotate the handle to the left. This creates more of a rocking motion from side to side instead of a plain old left to right movement with the gun remaining in the same plane. Imagine the head of your gun is the windshield wiper on the back of your XJ...it doesn't just move from left to right like a squeegee does...it swings..so as it moves to one side the end actually starts to point in that direction as well. This motion with your welder will eliminate the convex weld bead profile and give you more of a flat or concave profile which will help the stress flow from one piece to the other.

Did that make sense?

If anyone disagrees please feel free to chime in. This is based on my experience only.
 
looks a lot better...! i agree, the flat plate method helps a lot. I did this when i was learning the stick welder and after about 60" or so of bead it was looking much better.
 
RawBrown, been doing alot of welding on the exo this weekend, you gonna be ready for rewelding at the Jambo LOL
 
how long have you been welding?
looks like your using mig?
From the looks of your weld you need to work on having an even toe length, even crown, and tying in your toes. also looks like you might be running a little cold.
Is there a community college where you live? If so they may offer classes for people who want to learn to weld?
If you weave then you should pause if you move to fast you may get some under cut which you don't want, if you are getting some under cut you may want to pause longer. You should never whip when welding yeah it look like a stack of dimes knocked over but all your really doing is allowing the weld to solidify then you go back over all that slag which is going to make a defect in your weld.
I'd recommend that you bevel any metal your going to weld that is over 3/16"
Because you want penetration along with even crown, toes and you want it to tie in.
good luck if you need any more help hit me up.
 
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all good advice. if you have access to a person who has been welding for a long time, it might help to have them physically take you by the hand to help you get a feel...i used to do this for some of the students i was teaching. another thing is using "cheaters" or some kind of prescription magification if you wear glasses. the pocket welding guide by hobart has actual photos of what preferred welds look like, in a simple paperback design.
 
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