Hubs, shafts, joints, etc....

I believe the hubs are going out on my 91 XJ (no ABS). I was thinking this would be a good time to replace/upgrade my d30 shafts and joints but I don't really understand my options. I have read some things about 297 or 760 joints etc...What is the best/most cost effective upgrade for the shafts and joints? What about the hubs? I know there is a Warn kit to make them manual, it would be tempting if it were not $600.

Thanks!

if you have a vacuum disconnect axle your only option for 297/760 shafts is '95 YJ shafts, or you can get rid of the disco and run a long shaft from TJs or 96+ XJs. There are some things (seals?) that need to be changed to do the later, do a search.

there is no need to run 297/760 joints for many people, what size tires do you have, locker in the front, type of wheelin? I never broke a 260x joint with an open front diff, 33s, wheelin rocks at Fordyce and general NorCal trails, and downright abusing it (though I did carry spares). If you plan to stay 33s or smaller with an open diff you can just leave your shafts the way they are and replace your unit bearings alone (get Timken bearings!)

As for the Warn hub conversion, I consider it a serious waste of money on a D30. if you have the 231 t-case you already have the axle disconnect so your driveshaft isn't spinning in 2wd. I have heard of strength issues with the 5on4.5 warn hubs also.

Mostly trail running I have about 4" of lift with 32s. Just did the lift and tires, I haven't even tried them out yet. The hubs have been loud for a while so I know they need replacing. How will I know if the shafts need replacing? I figured I would get to inspect them when I did the hubs.

It's unlikely that the shafts have worn out. Just make sure the ears that hold the u-joints aren't hollowed out and make sure your u-joints are still good and move freely. When you put the axle shafts back in, be very careful. There is a seal inside the diff that you have to fit the axle shaft through gently. If you accidentally push the seal to the inside of the diff by not having the shaft centered in the tube when you push it in, then you'll have to open up the diff and remove the ring gear and carrier to get to the seal and put it back in/replace it. If you want to upgrade to 297x/760x shafts, it couldn't hurt to do it at the same time, then you'd have your 260x shafts as spares. I upgraded mine for peace of mind and because I'd rather beef it up beforehand than carry spares.

Thanks

Where would I find 297x/760x shafts and how much should I expect to pay?

If I get replacement shafts for a 95yj will these bolt right in?

Sorry for all the dumb questions, I have done alot of engine/tranny work but no much with axels

Where would I find 297x/760x shafts and how much should I expect to pay?

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A local 4x4 shop should have the shafts & joints, I paid $135 each for mine brand new with new 297x joints ($270 total for both sides). I've only lived here for 6 months and just found the shop by asking people on this forum.

If I get replacement shafts for a 95yj will these bolt right in?

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If you have the vacuum disconnect on your current axle, then the 95yj shafts are a direct replacement. If you don't have the vac disco, then you need a solid shaft out of a TJ or a 97+XJ. Even if you have the vac disco, you can upgrade to solid shafts which are stronger.