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Upper Control Arm Bushings?

techno1154

techno1154

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
In the islands
:wave:

I need to change the axle side. I have the JKS adjustable upper control arms with rubber bushings at the body end. The bushings on the axle need to be replaced. Those of you who have done this,.....

How did you remove them difficulty wise?

What tools did you use to remove and replace them?

Could it be done with the axle bolted in?

Would replacing them with heim or similar unit be advisable?
 
Remove the bulk of the old rubber and the inner sleeve with a small blow torch or drill bit, then an air hammer to collapse the bushing sleeve on itself, then it will pop right out. Its not really difficult, but theres a learning curve. The second one will come out a lot easier and faster once you get your method down.

To put the new ones in, i freeze the new ones in the freezer, then heated the axle side mounts, the cold new ones will slide in with minimal effort, then fit nice and snug once they cool.

It absolutely can be done with the axle bolted up, some people use a ball joint press as well.

There really isnt a good way to replace these with solid bushings, without cutting them off and welding on solid joints, but its gonna be a lot less comfortable than rubber.
 
Use WJ UCA bushings instead of XJ ones, it's a slightly better rubber with a much better piece of tubing instead of a folded/dimpled thingy for the bolt sleeve
 
This was the single biggest pain in the ass replacement I have done on my jeep. If the axle is still in the jeep it's a pain in the ass as there is no space to work. I used a torch to remove the rubber and a hack saw to cut the sleeve then used a flat punch to knock it out. Ball joint press put them back in.


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OBVIOUSLY, you want to evenly droop the axle slightly for clearance, same as with any front end work. However if you go too far, the bolts will twist the bushings, causing binding.

Not difficult, but there is a learning curve. And of course if the jeep is stock height it will be a tougher job.
 
If they are old enough like they were in my 92 XJ then you may be able to bang out the old ones with a hammer. I did that with a 2 lb. ball peen hammer and they popped out after a couple of bangs.
 
I just did mine for the second time. First time was on the vehicle (88) and yes it was a huge PITA, but I did manage to get it done. Second time, was with the axle out and on stands. I just used Moog's, and had them in the freezer for a few days prior. Used a ball-joint press and it literally took all of 10 minutes. I would soak them with penetrating oil if your axle is rusty. Plan on taking your time, it is completely possible.
 
Thanks all for your response. I will prepare myself mentally for the job this weekend.
 
foxwar71 said:
Use WJ UCA bushings instead of XJ ones, it's a slightly better rubber with a much better piece of tubing instead of a folded/dimpled thingy for the bolt sleeve
Click to expand...

The bolt holes in the WJ bushings are 1/2" verses the XJ which are only 3/8" or the metric equivalent.

Have anyone used polyurethane bushings instead of the OEM rubber? My XJ uses the JKS adjustable control arms so I do not think there will be excess forces working against the mounts both on the axle and the unibody end.

For those who installed poly bushings, where did you get them? Do you have a part number or any other information? Those that I see online are part of an overall kit for the entire front end. I want only the axle end pieces.
 
Installing new bushings is usually easier than removing the old ones. ehall's idea is the best one I haven't tried so far. Jacking up the unibody and letting the axle droop gives you more room to work. It's easiest if the axle is out of the vehicle. In the past I've rented the ball joint and control arm bushing kit from Advance and used some heavy thick washers to make it all work. Other's burn the rubber out and then chisel the sleeve out.

I've found the O'Reilly's Master Pro to the best value in OEM bushing replacements. K3128 is the part number IIRC. They are something like $9.98 for a set and are Clevite bushings. Cheaper than MOOG and way better than anything NAPA sells as replacements today. I broke NAPA bushings trying to install them and they looked and them and gave me my money back.
 
md21722 said:
I've found the O'Reilly's Master Pro to the best value in OEM bushing replacements. K3128 is the part number IIRC. They are something like $9.98 for a set and are Clevite bushings. Cheaper than MOOG and way better than anything NAPA sells as replacements today. I broke NAPA bushings trying to install them and they looked and them and gave me my money back.
Click to expand...

I looked at those already but drifted off in a day dream about using a different product. Actually, I bought all 4 LCA bushings from them, (O'reilly's) a few weeks ago for -$10.00 per pair. Both Moog and Master Pro have the same number but different lead in letters namely, Moog uses "Moo K3128 and Master Pro is MPO K3128 and half the price of Moog.

Now,...I just have to disconnect a few linkages, let the axle swing down then get under there after have a big (man)breakfast.

Thank you md21722.
 
foxwar71 said:
No they're not, they're the same 10mm bolt. I have WJ UCAs in my race jeep.
Click to expand...

Oh!

The spec I saw on O'reilly's site indicated the are bigger than those for the XJ. I must admit, I have not seen the product. I will take a look. And they are better than those for the XJ?

Thanks.
 
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