97xjnova
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern va
So it has 100k was overheating so pulled the t stat out and and flushed the rad and heater core. But it's like very 3 to 4 days it pukes all the coolent out any ideas
-
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Still over heating
- Thread starter 97xjnova
- Start date
mcnamaag
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Red Lion, PA
What pukes the coolant out? Need a little more info...
97xjnova
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern va
Out of the over flow tank sorry then it over heats cause it has no coolent
- Location
- Minneapolis, MN
It would seem you are not done with the cooling system maintenance.
Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport, and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated mineral deposits in the water jackets or radiator, a defective thermostat that doesn’t open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping mechanical fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap.
The cooling system is a group of related parts that depend on proper function from each of its component parts to keep the engine cool. Service the cooling system and replace any under-performing or suspected weak parts. Any component part of the cooling system that is not fully doing its job will stress the others, and your engine will overheat. Temperature creep on the 4x4 trails, at idle, or in stop-n-go traffic, points to a weak or failing mechanical fan clutch or worn out water pump fins.
The most important maintenance item is to flush and refill the coolant periodically. Coolant should be replaced every 36,000 miles, or every two to three years. Anti-freeze has a number of additives that are designed to prevent corrosion in the cooling system, but they have a limited life span. The corrosion causes scale that eventually builds up and begins to clog the thin flat tubes in the radiator and heater core, causing the engine to eventually overheat.
-Use a flushing/cleaning solution to remover mineral buildup or rust, and then drain and fill the radiator with a fresh 50/50 coolant and water mix. With neglected cooling system you may have to flush several times.
-Inspect the radiator for mud/bugs/grass clogging the outside and mineral deposits clogging the inside. Clean or replace as needed.
-Replace the thermostat with a genuine Jeep 195* thermostat. Cheap thermostats are cheap for a reason.
-Replace the radiator cap if your Jeep has one. An old worn out radiator cap will allow boil overs and/or allow the coolant flash over into to steam. You will see the coolant temps suddenly jump from 210* to the Red Zone and back to 210* if your radiator cap is weak.
-Inspect/test or replace the mechanical fan clutch. A worn fan clutch will allow temperature creep at stoplights, in heavy traffic, and on the 4x4 trails. A fan clutch that “looks” OK is not the same as working OK.
-Inspect the electric cooling fan and the fan relay. Apply 12 volts and make sure the fan runs. Exchange the cooling fan relay with one of the others similar relays. Confirm that the e-fan starts when engine temps reach 215-218*. Repair or replace the fan or relay as needed.
-Inspect/test or replace the coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
-Replace the water pump. The pumping fins can deteriorate over time and the pump will not flow enough coolant to keep the temps under control.
-Inspect/replace the radiator hoses. Make sure the coiled wire is installed in the lower hose.
If you have covered all the points listed above and still have overheating issues, inspect and test the head for cracks and head gasket for leaks. Exhaust gasses entering the coolant can raise the temperature of the coolant or cause steam pockets in the coolant that will temporarily block the flow of coolant
Read more about cooling systems here –
www.offroaders.com/tech/engine-overheating.htm
www.carparts.com/classroom/coolingsystem.htm
Overheating can be caused by anything that decreases the cooling system’s ability to absorb, transport, and dissipate heat, such as a low coolant level, loss of coolant (through internal or external leaks), poor heat conductivity inside the engine because of accumulated mineral deposits in the water jackets or radiator, a defective thermostat that doesn’t open, poor airflow through the radiator, a slipping mechanical fan clutch, an inoperative electric cooling fan, a collapsed lower radiator hose, an eroded or loose water pump impeller or even a defective radiator cap.
The cooling system is a group of related parts that depend on proper function from each of its component parts to keep the engine cool. Service the cooling system and replace any under-performing or suspected weak parts. Any component part of the cooling system that is not fully doing its job will stress the others, and your engine will overheat. Temperature creep on the 4x4 trails, at idle, or in stop-n-go traffic, points to a weak or failing mechanical fan clutch or worn out water pump fins.
The most important maintenance item is to flush and refill the coolant periodically. Coolant should be replaced every 36,000 miles, or every two to three years. Anti-freeze has a number of additives that are designed to prevent corrosion in the cooling system, but they have a limited life span. The corrosion causes scale that eventually builds up and begins to clog the thin flat tubes in the radiator and heater core, causing the engine to eventually overheat.
-Use a flushing/cleaning solution to remover mineral buildup or rust, and then drain and fill the radiator with a fresh 50/50 coolant and water mix. With neglected cooling system you may have to flush several times.
-Inspect the radiator for mud/bugs/grass clogging the outside and mineral deposits clogging the inside. Clean or replace as needed.
-Replace the thermostat with a genuine Jeep 195* thermostat. Cheap thermostats are cheap for a reason.
-Replace the radiator cap if your Jeep has one. An old worn out radiator cap will allow boil overs and/or allow the coolant flash over into to steam. You will see the coolant temps suddenly jump from 210* to the Red Zone and back to 210* if your radiator cap is weak.
-Inspect/test or replace the mechanical fan clutch. A worn fan clutch will allow temperature creep at stoplights, in heavy traffic, and on the 4x4 trails. A fan clutch that “looks” OK is not the same as working OK.
-Inspect the electric cooling fan and the fan relay. Apply 12 volts and make sure the fan runs. Exchange the cooling fan relay with one of the others similar relays. Confirm that the e-fan starts when engine temps reach 215-218*. Repair or replace the fan or relay as needed.
-Inspect/test or replace the coolant temperature sensor that activates the e-fan.
-Replace the water pump. The pumping fins can deteriorate over time and the pump will not flow enough coolant to keep the temps under control.
-Inspect/replace the radiator hoses. Make sure the coiled wire is installed in the lower hose.
If you have covered all the points listed above and still have overheating issues, inspect and test the head for cracks and head gasket for leaks. Exhaust gasses entering the coolant can raise the temperature of the coolant or cause steam pockets in the coolant that will temporarily block the flow of coolant
Read more about cooling systems here –
www.offroaders.com/tech/engine-overheating.htm
www.carparts.com/classroom/coolingsystem.htm
pjanda1
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Boulder, CO
That was pretty thorough! A cracked header blasting exhaust at the bottom of the intake sure doesn't help, either.
Paul
Paul
97xjnova
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern va
I have checked the e fan and tested fine and also will try replacing the rad cap.
97xjnova
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern va
Replaced the cap and seems better we will find out
97xjnova
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern va
Well just a update last night saw the gauge geting hot so started to look for some way to pull over and did 1/2 mile down road was in red when I got there.. So I parked shut it down and bang loud as can be steam and coolent started to spue out from under car and hood. So poped the hood and found the radiator had split and has a crack just trying to figure what I should do next
97xjnova
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern va
Well I'm going to replace I'm just tring to figure where all the pressure build up is coming from
The radiator cap should hold about 16 psi before coolant is pushed into the coolant reservoir. When the coolant cools, it is drawn back in by vacuum. Did you use a quality thermostat and radiator cap? Such as one from the dealer or NAPA? If overheating persists and you've flushed and inspected the system as mentioned by Tim earlier, then the next most likely causes can be a blown head gasket or cracked head.
97xjnova
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Northern va
Well replaced the rad today and water pump and Tstat and upper and lower rad hoses so far it's been good we shall see and kept the new cap
