Quick help please - Won’t start

Hi,

My jeep just died, and I’m not having any luck finding the solution. I’m in a hurry to get some quick advice, as I’m now stranded and need to move ASAP.

I went out to the Jeep a while ago, and tried to start it. I put the key in and turned it to run - the radio and heater fan came on. Then I turned the key to “start,” I heard the solenoid click on, but at that moment, everything electrical immediately stopped working. it all just clicked off like someone flipped a switch. Radio, dome light, headlights, gauges - all completely and totally without any power at all. The engine won't crank at all.

The battery is good, and it’s showing 12 volts. But, no power is getting to the jeep. I checked the battery terminals, and they look good and solid.

10 minutes later, as I was sitting in the car trying to think of what to do next, all the power mysteriously clicked back on! The dash gauge even said the battery had full power.

So, I tried again to start it up, and the same thing happened: instant failure. Now it’s staying dead.

I’ve tried pulling on all the wires, and checking fuses - nothing so far. Tried starting in neutral without success. The jeep ran great yesterday, and hasn’t had any signs of problems lately. Can anyone tell me where to start looking next?




1994 Cherokee Sport. 4.0. AW4 Totally stock.

clean the battery terminals

check the grounds.

check that the cables themselves aren't nasty where they go into the terminals.

Clicking and not starting is usually a low voltage issue from:

• leaving the lights on
• a failing battery
• a failing alternator
• dirty, corroded, or loose wire connections
• internally corroded battery wires

Perform routine maintenance of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, wire brush, and clean until shiny the cable/wire ends and whatever they bolt to.

Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Place your DVOM (Digital Volt Ohm Multi-Meter) on the 20 volt scale. First check battery voltage by placing your multi-meter's positive lead on the battery's positive post ( the actual post, not the clamp ) and the negative lead on the negative post. You need a minimum of 12 volts to continue testing. Next, leave your meter connected and take a reading while the engine is cranking. Record this voltage reading. Now connect your positive lead to the battery terminal stud on the starter and the negative lead to the starter housing. Again, crank the engine and record the voltage reading. If the voltage reading at the starter is not within 1 volt of battery voltage then you have excessive voltage drop in the starter circuit.

Typical voltage drop maximums:
• starter circuit (including starter solenoid) = 0.60 volt
• battery post to battery terminal end = zero volts
• battery main cable (measured end to end) 0.20 volt
• starter solenoid = 0.20 volt
• battery negative post to alternator metal frame = 0.20 volt
• negative main cable to engine block = 0.20 volt
• negative battery post to starter metal frame = 0.30
• battery positive post to alternator b+stud = 0.5 volt with maximum charging load applied (all accessories turned on)

Test the output at the alternator with your volts/ohms multi-meter. You should be measuring 13.8-14.4 volts. Load testing the alternator is still recommended.

Exchange the ASD relay with the Starter relay in the fuse box under the hood near the battery.

Wiggle the automatic transmission lever in both Park and Neutral while trying to start. If it starts, you need to clean or replace the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS).
Have your helper turn the ignition key to START while you tap on the starter with a hammer. If the engine starts, you probably need a new starter.

Have the battery, starter, and the alternator Load Tested for proper function in a test machine that applies a simulated work load. Handheld testers are inaccurate and will often pass faulty parts.

Can someone let me know if this is an important clue?

I just started looking around under the hood. I set the key to run, and checked the connection on the wires & ground straps. The battery is good, but there is still no power to anything in the truck. Nothing happens when I turn it on - starter won't click, and even the horn is dead.


After about ten minutes with the key set to on, I noticed that the positive terminal on the battery had become extremely hot. I assume that means something is shorting out, but I don't know what is causing this, or where else to look. Any ideas?

Thanks,
G

After turning the key back to the off position, it's cooled back down again.

remove and clean the terminals. its a bad connection between the contact surfaces

UltimateG said:

Can someone let me know if this is an important clue?

I just started looking around under the hood. I set the key to run, and checked the connection on the wires & ground straps. The battery is good, but there is still no power to anything in the truck.

Click to expand...

Please make sure that you NEVER, under any circumstances, removed either battery terminal while the key is in the RUN or ON position. Doing this can can cause a backfeed that can short out your PCM. Do not do it.

You need to get your battery load tested. A visual inspection, along with the gauge reading from the cabin is not-conclusive.