• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Need Input on My Build Plan

H

hombuiltgearhead

NAXJA Forum User
Location
colorado springs
I just bought my first XJ. Its a 96 2 door. I plan on building it in stages. Its my daily driver and will see 95% street use, with the occasional trip to the woods or mud pits. Any input is appreciated,
Step 1:
Strengthen the drivetrain:
upgraded front axle shafts, 4.10 gears and locker up front
new ball joints?
ford 8.8 with a posi and 4.10 gears
Stage 2:
Iron Rock 6.5" or 8" Critical Path Suspension
eliminate the BPEs
Hack n Slap SYE with new driveshaft
8 Point Cage (Saw a rolled xj and it wasn't pretty)
trim fenders
33x12.50 dick cepekfc2 on 15x8 wheels with 2.5" backspacing
stage 3:
axle braces front and rear
upgrade bumpers and add a front winch
look into steering up grades
 
Nice!
.....go 4:56 on the gearing.
stiffeners on the frame. Then tie the cage into it.

No need for that big of suspension with 33" rubber. Go Long arm 4.5.

Hell yeah. Do a build thread!
 
If it will be on the street 95% of the time, why the huge lift? You can fit 33" tires on 4.5" lift no problem, even with trimmed fenders.

Everything else should work together well.

Oh and may I suggest uni-body frame stiffeners added to that list. Should be one of the FIRST things you do.
 
Your gonna eliminate bar pin eliminators? I want to see that
 
Was thinking about what bpe meant. Meant to say install bpes. Also looking at sway bar disconnects. Who makes a good set of frame stiffners and will they work with the iron rock crossmember?
 
Last edited:
For frame stiffies check out HDoffroad(I have their Front to Rear kit, good fit, quality), TNT customs and Ruffstuff. They are all sponsors of this Site.
 
When you do the frame stiffeners, plate/brace your steering box. It's probably the most significant failure I've seen occur on XJ's, and it's predictable - if you don't address it, and you wheel it, the inside frame wall WILL fail. I prefer something like the TNT kit with crush sleeves in between the inner and outer wall. (But if you only wheel lightly, you can get away with the factory setup for a few years.)

Another thought: I know they're expensive but you may want to move the bumpers up in your list? Good tow points are essential while off-roading - especially when getting yanked out of mud. A hitch in the back is a quick/cheap solution (available at a junk yard if your XJ doesn't have one) but in the front I'd skip the factory tow hooks and find a used after-market bumper a local chapter member is selling... Heck, in Colorado you should have lots of options on CL even.

x100 on the suspension, less lift & more trim
 
Solid plan and solid advice so far. I'd like to suggest an Eaton True Trac LSD up front instead of a locker if you have a 242 t-case so you can still safely use your full-time on dry pavement and in the snow/ice. There are other LSD options but the True Trac doesn't use clutch plates so no additives and no consumable parts to replace. With 33" tires 4.10 gears are okay if you find an 8.8 with that ratio already, if not you should step up to 4.56 like mako suggested.

hombuiltgearhead said:
Hack n Slap SYE with new driveshaft
Click to expand...

When you install the SYE you may want to tap it instead of slap it, it'll stick around longer.
 
What would you recommend over the iro kit? I have a friend who has used their lift on an XJ and on his current grand cherokee. Seems like a solid kit. He drives his grand daily and wheels occasionally. The main reason I like the iro system is strength, price, and it is all bolt on. I don't have a welder. The one person I know with a welder is.deployed overseas.
 
Last edited:
For a bolt on 5.5"lift check out Rubicon Express. If you can save up the $$ check out Clayton Offroad(welding required on the crossmember, but a rock solid kit). They have 4.5" and 6.5" kits.
 
my head is spinning from all the reading i have been doing. i think i have it narrowed down to saving my cash for either the clayton kit or a kit from tnt. are there any major pros and cons between the two systems? i do like the clearance the tnt kit gives you
 
Clayton Offroad:
Pros- well built and designed parts, cross member is a 3 piece so you can remove the center section for drive train work without dropping the arms and all.
Cons- long arms seem to hang pretty low at low lift(4.5"). Even that's not really a deal breaker.

TnT
Pros- High clearance long arms and cross member(gain about 1" if memory serves me right). Well built system.
Cons- have to remove entire cross member/long arm setup to get drive train parts out.

These companies are pretty much at the top of the list if you want radius designed long arms. You really can't go wrong with either.
 
I dont see a disadvantage to either kit. I like the skid plate design in the tnt kit. are they both equally strong? Any weak points on either kit? i am going to start looking at welders before i dig into this project..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
XJ Overland build plan, need a sanity check.
Replies
16
Views
6K
jeep ride
J
H
Captain America Build
Replies
8
Views
910
Kittrell
Kittrell
R
Buy a Factory Lift or Custom Components?
Replies
11
Views
1K
ridesdirt
R
L
Input bearing play and missing syncro key... time to rebuild AX15?
Replies
4
Views
775
lawsoncl
L
E
My jeep build with photos over the last few years.
44 45 46
Replies
917
Views
193K
Evan03
E
Back
Top