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Transmission problem

Demonoid369

Demonoid369

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Salem, OR
So I think my first gear went out, the fluid is full and still pink no discoloration or dirtyness. It got a drain and fill at 190,000 and I'm at 201,000 now. Haven't put it in 1-2 to confirm it is just 1st gear but I'm betting high it is because in D at a stop the rpm go fairly high and instead of going like it should, is slowly works its way like its slipping a crap ton then it shifts ish and then works normal.
The question is this a failing transmission needing replacement or is it the shift solenoid? Or what other things can cause this? This is my dd and only rig so any fast advice is greatly appreciated and needed
 
the AW4 is a fairly stout trans. I'd look into reasons for it to not know it should be in low gear first. The trans. control module needs power to tell the transmission what to do-- check and see if it's got power.

The old school method of determining TCM versus transmission is to remove power from the module and shift manually. If you get low gear that way, you are looking at an electronic problem-- if it's still starting in high gear, you're looking at an internal transmission problem.
 
Alright well here's a twist, the temp that it slipped at was 205/210 but now as I was trying to try the manual shift and such my temp is down to like 140 and in D and 1-2 it catches fine and drives fine, no slipping or anything. Is this a heat related issue? I don't have a external tranny cooler but I would assume if the tranny was getting to hot then my temp for the radiator would be higher than 210?
 
Did you disconnect the TCM like Shorty suggested, THEN do the manual shifting?

If yes, then your problem is ELECTRONIC/ELECTRICAL in nature, and not a MECHANICAL issue.

If the problem is electronic/electrical, ohm out the shift solenoids.
 
The problem now is that it's not slipping so disconnecting the tcu wouldn't show anything would it? I know at steady speed either slow or fast it will down shift for a split second then up shift. To me it sounds like a solenoid, but I really do not have any experience in the transmission section. I know manuals but nothing on autos.
 
What all sensors can affect the transmission in the way of slipping and rpm fluctuation? Talking to a couple of transmission guys(too poor to pay for scan) it sounds like a sensor issue, because after the first slipping incident, I haven't had any slipping since but at time at steady speed(slow/fast) the rpm does fluctuate, not a big difference but it does.
 
Have you adjusted the TV cable?
 
Yup, I've adjusted it, made sure the tps was actually working and getting correct volts. I'm about to do a grounds check and battery cables.
It's just strange because I haven't had any slipping since that one. I've also gone in 3rd and D and lightly tap the brake to see if the TC unlocked and such and as far as I can tell, it does.
I just don't know if I'm looking at a solenoid or electrical problem. If its electric, I'm screwed since I don't have a clue about electronics.
 
The "electronics" isn't as hard as it sounds.

Fuse for power to the TCM. Ohm out the solenoids, check continuity on the harness. pretty simple stuff and you can be walked through it.
 
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Well of anyone is willing to walk me through the process of what to check with a volt meter and what volt it's suppose to be on sensors or what not I would greatly appreciate it. Because I haven't a clue where to begin with checking the electronics.

Took videos, I am also thinking my TC isn't locking:

http://youtu.be/OkZk-gg3zR4
^this was at 40 mph and in 3rd and I tapped the brake to see if the TC would unlock

http://youtu.be/NH0urlGL0yM
This was in D and you can see the rpm move just a little and that was when I tapped the brake petal

The video for doing the Same speed as above but in 3rd doesn't show well but in third it was at 3k Roma and when I touched the brake petal it only moved up as much as the video above did.
 
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Does this apply to my 97'? I read somewhere it might change after 96'
huhyge3a.jpg

Also does someone know the link or some pics of the tcu and where I am suppose to measure the volts and what the volts are suppose to be? I'm gonna try and take a crack at it but I haven't a clue where to probe lol
 
Here's something to try. This is for the earlier Jeeps but I believe yours is about the same.

Cruiser’s Trans Plug Refreshing

Over near the transmission dipstick tube are 2 rather large connectors. One is black and the other gray. These 2 connectors carry all the info between TPS, TCU, NSS, speed sensor, and transmission solenoids.
Unplug each one, visually inspect for corrosion or bent pins, spray them out with electrical contact cleaner and plug them back in.
　
Additionally, if your Jeep is an 87 to 90 Renix, it’s always a good idea to reach up under the glovebox area and unplug the connector to the TCU and spray it out along with the receptacle of the TCU. While you’re there, find the fuse right in that area for the TCU. Remove it and spray out it’s receptacle and clean any corrosion from the fuse.
Revised 9-10-2012

 
Well took it to aamco for their free check point service thingy. Now everything he said I'm taking it with a grain of salt since I could see they weren't happy that I wanted only the free check, but for the short drive and showing him what speed it happens the most, he did say it is electric(fml right?!? Lol) the issue is that it's frequent enough to notice but infrequent enough to not register on the computer that there is a problem :-/ he says its a misfire causing it and it could be the cam sensor or crank sensor, but said that the only way to really know is for it to get worse and show itself(don't know if that's true)
Anyone have any ideas?
 
Updates!!!! Or update lol
So it happened again but now I see common things that happened before. The first time and this time, I had hard accelerated, first time was getting around a 100+ grandma and this time it was to get back on to the freeway after helping to get a buddies rig back up and running. Both times was when the engine had been warm(operating temp) both had a hard acceleration(wot) and as I found out recently, my hard line going from the transmission to the tranny cooler was kinked/bent from my uca previously hitting them.

Question is, is the tranny losing pressure or getting too much from the kinked hard line causing the tranny to "slip" as it seems
 
Here's the pic
tu5a8yga.jpg

As you can see the two lines are bent/kinked. My question is can I use ATF rated transmission tubing and just use two clamps on each side to secure it? I know it's not a permeant fix but I'm just worried that being so close to the engine, would the tubing melt?
 
Demonoid369 said:
Here's the pic
tu5a8yga.jpg

As you can see the two lines are bent/kinked. My question is can I use ATF rated transmission tubing and just use two clamps on each side to secure it? I know it's not a permeant fix but I'm just worried that being so close to the engine, would the tubing melt?
Click to expand...

You'll be fine. get it done before you smoke that trans.
 
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