Hydrolocked-New Engine Question

Like a fool, I went through water that was deeper than I thought and the engine got hydrolocked. After it turned over for a millisecond, I pulled the plugs and shot water out of it. Replaced the TPS and oil twice and now the CEL is gone, but I can hear the lifters ticking. It idles really rough as well. What's the likelihood of a bent valve? What about a bent push rod?

What would you guys suggest in this situation? I called a local guy that wanted $900 for a '99 l6 with 135k on it. That seems high to me, what's a reasonable price for such an engine? Also, what about getting a crate engine?

'98 4.0
AW4
NP 242
160k miles

Thanks!

That's WAY high for a 4.0. They're out there for 250 all day long.

Pull the valve cover off and take a look at yours.

Or you could just buy one of these.

http://titanengines.com/remanufactured-engines/jeep/jeep-239-4-7-longblock-engine-for-99-06.html

Is that $250 for a u-pull-it place or for the engine dropped right in the back of the truck?

bluedevils278 said:

Is that $250 for a u-pull-it place or for the engine dropped right in the back of the truck?

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Depends.

They're definitely at the PaP. Longblock $199.99 Shortblock $99.99

I see them on CL quite often sitting on a pallet but you get no guarantee that it's going to run or mileage. I'd rather pull it myself.

I'm not made of money although that is probably a better deal than $900 for one with 135k miles on it

What donor vehicles can I use for a '98 xj? Can I use grand cherokees?

DO NOT EVER BUY AN ENGINE FROM TITAN!

Now that I've said that.

I don't pay over $200 for a 4.0. Local yard has engines on sale for $100 this month, they were $100 all winter as well.

You can use a 93-98 ZJ or 91-98 XJ/MJ, I think 4.0s out of YJs fit too but people think they are made of gold, 99-up WJs are different and not in good ways either.

95 and earlier donors, you'll need to chop a small piece of aluminum off the timing cover to clear the belt path on the driver side. It's the round hole looking brackety thing. Otherwise, the only downside is that they are slightly louder I guess? NVH changes to the block. It'll work fine though.

On 97.0 (or 96, not sure exactly) and earlier longblocks there's going to be a temp sender for the gauge cluster mounted in the rear driver corner of the head. Just leave it in there unwired or put a 1/8 NPT pipe plug in the hole if you want.

Bolt all your sensors and stuff on, IIRC you can just swap the cam position sensor in the distributor on yours into the distributor on another motor and not have any issues but I'm not sure. Comparing side by side should tell you.

Valve cover differences on 94-95 and earlier... but they don't really matter, and some like the older style valve cover anyways.

PM This guy.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=245925822#post245925822

An 01 has the later head and will require custom work or funky swap stuff to make the exhaust manifold match up, IIRC.

kastein said:

An 01 has the later head and will require custom work or funky swap stuff to make the exhaust manifold match up, IIRC.

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You should be able to use the 01 exhaust manifold and solve that issue. Or swap back to his head but I guess that's the original problem...

I'd rework the head before I did all this swapping nonsense.

The 01 exhaust manifold has a completely different setup - precats and a few extra o2 sensor ports, different shape, won't bolt up to the earlier exhaust, etc.

It seems like a lot of work and creation of new problems to me. Don't get me wrong, I'd do it if I needed to drive the thing to work in a few days and it was the only one around, but I certainly wouldn't choose it as my first option.

kastein said:

The 01 exhaust manifold has a completely different setup - precats and a few extra o2 sensor ports, different shape, won't bolt up to the earlier exhaust, etc.

It seems like a lot of work and creation of new problems to me. Don't get me wrong, I'd do it if I needed to drive the thing to work in a few days and it was the only one around, but I certainly wouldn't choose it as my first option.

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Ah, I forgot about all the emissions crap.

Thanks for the info guys! I did a compression test and 2-6 were around 150-160 and 1 was 125. The idle has seemed to level out and is running a slightly better. There is still an unknown clicking noise coming from the engine though. I took a can of sea foam and shoved the brake booster vacum line in the can until the engine shut off and then let it sit for 15 mins. This did not really seem to help much. Any ideas of the clicking noise could be? Think I should still be looking for a new engine?

As I read back through this thread I see that Ken shot down everything I said. Ken, I'm hurt. lol

Well, you agree'd that 4.0s are to be had cheap...

whoops

bluedevils278 said:

Thanks for the info guys! I did a compression test and 2-6 were around 150-160 and 1 was 125. The idle has seemed to level out and is running a slightly better. There is still an unknown clicking noise coming from the engine though. I took a can of sea foam and shoved the brake booster vacum line in the can until the engine shut off and then let it sit for 15 mins. This did not really seem to help much. Any ideas of the clicking noise could be? Think I should still be looking for a new engine?

Click to expand...

that is the ticking of your time bomb. Sorry, had to be said...

It is probably a mildly squashed rod bearing or wrist pin or something. AKA that rod is probably buckled a bit (which is why one cylinder is lower compression... piston can't go as high in the cylinder anymore with a shorter/buckled rod) and that is the conrod that will eventually let loose and put inspection ports in the sides of the block for you.

I am no fan of inspection ports.