AW4 to AX15 swap: my attempt

Hi,

I want to find out if I can do this myself. I have a 2000, AW4, 4.5" lift and 32" tires. Was looking into re-gearing and then came across some info on swapping a manual. I am thinking that this could be a decent compromise as I've always liked manual transmissions anyway. There's a very nice write-up.

I have the AX-15 already, it's internal slave (I know), and gathering the parts I need.

In any case, I will try and document the steps in this thread when I do it.

A couple things first:

I have an NP242 and will possibly get a 231 in case the 242 doesn't work out well. I do like the full-time 4x4 and think it actually works well despite its simplicity, but I suspect the center differential will create slack in the driveline even in 2wd. Anyone have any experience with that?

Another question which I couldn't find an answer for: can I keep my current crossmember? I will be swapping the mounting plate (between rubber mount and transmission itself, I see it's offset) but what is the difference between the manual and auto for the crossmember itself?

Cheers

A couple of folks here have swapped an NP242 behind an AX15. IIRC, they liked it, but I don't remember any of the details beyond that.

Thanks.

Well at any rate I might be able to try both and report

First off, do yourself a favor and do it right with an external slave. Find a 94+ bellhousing and input bearing retainer and swap them onto the trans you have. The first time an internal throwout bearing/internal slave goes out (and they do, trust me) you'll be kicking yourself for going the easy way out at first and a 30 minute job to swap the external slave will turn into an all day/weekend job to pull the trans and replace an internal one.

2nd, a 242 behind a manual trans will work just fine. No reason to worry about that. It's all input torque from the trans output shaft, doesn't matter if it comes from a manual or an automatic

3rd, swapping a manual trans in isn't really a good compromise if you need to regear. You'll still need/want to regear after you swap the manual in, you'll just be driving around on the highway in 4th gear instead of 5th a lot, and slipping the clutch in first to get going on hills and stuff. Not really ideal, infact I'd prefer an automatic trans in a rig with bigger tires and stock gears for the start/stop part, just put it in 3 instead of D on the highway. So if you're doing it, do it cause you want a manual trans, not as a band-aid for stock gears and big tires.

[EDIT]: I believe the crossmember is the same.

Sounds reasonable. Anyone has said bellhousing laying around? Otherwise I'll head over to car-parts, but I think I'll heed your advice.

What's a good gear ratio for 32/33" tires then? Sounds like an other exciting project

Here's a question you have to ask yourself. How good are you at starting out on a 45 degree incline? About the only place I personally want an automatic is in the jeep as it makes wheeling much easier. Every other vehicle (except the RV) has a manual trans.

Another excuse for a winch?

Or a working parking brake?

I have a hand throttle on my shifter and I can start my rig at any angle, on any hill Without slipping backwards... I love my ax15

Slowly gathering parts. JY sent me a 4cyl bellhousing (fffffffuuuuuuuuuuuu). Receipt says 6cyl though. If I sent it back for a refund I'd break even only in shipping costs. Amazingly I was able to unload it for the price I paid on ebay in a few hours and found another bellhousing elsewhere (hopefully... still not here). Should have remained internal slave, not sure that one will sell well.

I could not find 97+ pedals, so I'll ghetto-rig a 96 set into my 00 bracket. PO used the master cylinder hole in the firewall to route some electrical wires that I have no idea what they do. There is a remote starter that I don't use (anybody want it? assuming I can find the thing), that could be it. Damn.

The AX15 is covered end-to-end with about 1/2" of dried up grime. Not sure what to do, it's a bear to clean. Thinking of getting a powerwasher now...

Does anybody have a knob they could part with?

Will start posting pics soon.

Power wash is the way to go. Then parts cleaner

Stuff you need for a factory-perfect install:
crossmember (mount point is around 1/2" lower than your auto crossmember's, do a 1/2" transfer case drop if you don't have a crossmember to use)
trans to trans mount adapter plate - hopefully came with your trans. I have measurements off one here, if you want, I can post a crappy drawing with dimensions for fabricating one.
master/slave pair w/ hydro line for a 97-01
pedal box for a 97-01 - I have one here for one of my projects and eventually intend to take measurements off it too
front and rear driveshafts - the front is about 1.41" shorter than an auto, the rear is correspondingly longer
ECU - yours will work fine, just have a CEL. Or you can have someone reflash it to a manual firmware image.
4x4 transfer case linkages (both), possibly bellcrank, and the two brackets the bellcrank sits between (I have dimensions for some of these, looking for the rest)
you will need to make an adapter to wire the clutch safety switch and reverse light switch for the late model into the NSS plug. Easy to do, let me know if you need a hand with wiring diagrams or color codes.
sheetmetal blockoff plate and rubber shifter boot for the trans tunnel - not sure if a 96- XJ has the same one or not
center console shift boot and plastic bezel clip ring - definitely different from 96-
throttle return spring - goes from the throttle arm to the throttle cable bracket, semi optional. I don't have one on my MJ, all it would do is slow me down :gee:
pilot bearing and bushing. Measure your input shaft's pilot diameter before ordering, iirc early AX15s have a 19/32" or so diameter and later ones are a larger diameter. The larger diameter one is an FC69907.
flywheel
clutch
pressure plate
throwout bearing
flywheel bolts - buy brand new
pressure plate bolts - iirc there are 6 and they are 3/8-16 thread, use grade 8s and you'll be fine. I forget the length.

what else... hmmm. I am sure I am forgetting something.

Thanks man, I already have the trans-to-crossmember plate.

Pilot bearing is .75". The transmission really looks in great shape underneath the grime, seems to shift ok and shifter is quite firm, although for all I know it could end up needing an overhaul as soon as I try shifting and it grinds my fillings loose... I guess there's only one way to find out.

My 4x4 linkage is already custom all-thread/heim joints, but I hear you on the lining up of things. Also not too worried about the trans tunnel hole, when that's all I have to worry about I'll be happy

I'll have to list all the parts I got already, maybe it's useful for other people that want to do the same.

I'll probably take you up on the dimensions/wiring info when the time comes though.

I have a front bearing retainer and bell housing pm me if interested

Also a pedal box for 97-01

PM sent.

Just got this clutch kit and it comes as pictured: has both a pilot and pilot+bushing, nice!

Doing this same swap from a compete donor. So helpful. Keep us updated on anything that comes up.

Oh, another thing. I'm not sure what years this affects, but keep in mind how you are going to defeat the park interlock on the steering column. When I did my swap, everything was fine till I went to back it out of the driveway for the first time, at which point the steering column promptly locked. I was real glad I'd only made the corner out of the driveway, because all I had to do was pull back in and shut it off. I ended up leaving the auto shifter in place and in park for the first 6 months because it kept that from happening, then solved the problem when I had to replace my wobbly tilt column later.

As far as the gear ratio goes I'm on 32's with my 5 speed and 3.73 gears. Its a DD and I'll start in 2nd gear all the time, can't comment about how it would do offroad.

kastein said:

Oh, another thing. I'm not sure what years this affects, but keep in mind how you are going to defeat the park interlock on the steering column. When I did my swap, everything was fine till I went to back it out of the driveway for the first time, at which point the steering column promptly locked. I was real glad I'd only made the corner out of the driveway, because all I had to do was pull back in and shut it off. I ended up leaving the auto shifter in place and in park for the first 6 months because it kept that from happening, then solved the problem when I had to replace my wobbly tilt column later.

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Sounds like a fun WTF moment...

BTSI? Should be a matter of finding a solenoid and disconnecting it? I'll see if I can find it, probably can be disconnected beforehand so that's one thing done.

alex22 said:

As far as the gear ratio goes I'm on 32's with my 5 speed and 3.73 gears. Its a DD and I'll start in 2nd gear all the time, can't comment about how it would do offroad.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.