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Do i have the skills to install a AA SYE kit?

D

dieselenthusiast

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Zuni Mountains, New Mexico
How difficult is it to install the Advance Adapters Heavy Duty SYE Kit for someone who is somewhat mechanically inclined? Is this something that’s pretty straight forward or should I take it to someone who knows what they are doing, lol? This will be going on a 2000 XJ.
 
Honestly, only you know if you have the skills to tackle something you have never seen apart before.

Seems to me that if a Hippy can read the "How to keep your VW alive for the Complete Idiot" and work their way though a Rebuild of a bug engine, you have a pretty good shot at R&Ring a Xfer case. The hard part seems to be sealing it so it don't leak like a Harley afterwards ;)
 
I just did this a coupe of months ago without any experience at all. Watched the YouTube video about twenty times, took it apart, bagged, and labeled as I went. It wasn't that difficult but my jeep isn't a DD so I could take my time with it.
Good luck.
 
95XJ_Cbiscuit70 said:
I just did this a coupe of months ago without any experience at all. Watched the YouTube video about twenty times, took it apart, bagged, and labeled as I went. It wasn't that difficult but my jeep isn't a DD so I could take my time with it.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

Was there a specific video that AA put out? If I could see it, that would certainly help.
 
The first time there's always a learning curve. It took me about 3 hours. The second time, about 30 minutes.

No, it's no difficult at all. If you have a lift, it makes things EXPONENTIALLY easier. But it's definitely still manageable on the ground. If I had to do it in the driveway, I would jack up my rig so that I could comfortably sit underneath it, and just go to town.

The AA video on youtube is a HUGE help. A few of the steps are unnecessary, but it explains everything you need to know. Keep track of your bolts, start everything by hand, and work intelligently. Drain your t-case and let it sit for a while before you try and split the halves, or you'll make a mess of things. And honestly, I would buy a new mode select spring from the dealer before you crack it open. I've had to open mine back up 3 times now to deal with staying in 4wd issues. Pretty sure I had a whole thread about it a while back. It does wear out, just replace it for the peace of mind. Once it sticks in 4wd, trust me, there's no getting it back out without opening the case. I've had to take out the front shaft twice now because of it.

Edit: Here's the part number for the spring Mopar Part No. 04338925

And here's my thread telling of the horrors.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1076987&page=2

I didn't order the spring the first time it stuck in 4wd (idiot) and instead stretched it out a little bit, and stacked two washers on the post behind the spring. Worked like a champ for a few months until I couldn't get out of 4hi on the beach. Seems like it's failed again. Spring is in the mail...

557365_3634717666292_239109612_n.jpg

Driveshaft removal.......
 
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DanMan2k06, I greatly appreciate the advice and the part number. There's so many things to think about when doing these installs.
 
In some ways, I thought about buying the complete NP231 replacement with the SYE kit already installed. My 4 wheel drive works, but I don't know the condition of it. I can get a complete replacement with warranty for $850.00 and be done with it knowing that it's all new. Decisions, decisions.......
 
I did my SYE just after lifting mine it took me about two hours with no lift and in the driveway. No real problem. Just follow the instructions and have fun.
 
I did my own SYE (AA kit), as said before only you know your skill level. With that said, it was pretty easy, I think it took all together about 2-3 hrs. Make sure you have access to a good set of snap ring pliers and you'll be fine.
 
for 850 or a little more you can get a used rubicon 241 with 4:1 and it already has a sye from the factory.
i've seen them as low as 650 recently, plus shipping.

if you have the money and arent comfortable doing the sye, that's the route i'd go.
but i'd do the sye, they arent very hard.
 
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Go For It!

I'm about to tackle this project myself, and I think the key is don't rush, follow the steps, and it will be no problem.

I like the replace spring idea! Had not heard that one!

This forum does not allow links to FSMs but if you search I know there are some OEM Jeep manuals on the NP231 you can download and print, helps to have the specs and data from Jeep as well. A nice diagram is always handy too!

np-231.gif


Also, you might consider this rebuild kit - I'm going to put in as much of this as I deem necessary:

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52270_104.htm

Good luck! I'll be right behind you here in about a week!
 
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The 231 is a simple case. I have never personally installed a SYE but I have tore into the case to replace a chain before. You can do it, the case is simple.
 
DanMan2k06 said:
The first time there's always a learning curve. It took me about 3 hours. The second time, about 30 minutes.
QUOTE]

I love when people go extremely overboard in their stories of how fast they can do something. Lets be honest here. just pulling the front and rear driveshaft will take your average person 20 mins or so and thats if they are really working at a "get it done" pace.

the first times going to take you a bit longer. I would say dont put a time constraint on it. just get it back together and working THE FIRST TIME. take your time. theres really not many parts to label or that can be installed incorrectly. most of the internals on the case only fit one way.

Here is a very detailed link on doing an AA sye on a 2000 TJ. XJs dont have to pull a big skid plate off, and honestly I find them easier to do with the t-case still under the vehicle.

other than that....have a good pair of snap ring plyers before you start. :cheers:
Click to expand...
 
Don't wanna be the devils advocate here, but be prepared for problems. The topmost bolt connecting the T-case to the trans was froze solid on mine. By time I got everything loose enough to get the T-case lower where I could get more leverage, I had 5 hours into the job. Once the T-case was out, the job went quickly.

I would agree, when I did the job a second time, I didn't drop the T-case and just did it all in place. Substantially faster, but I did know a bit more by then as well.
 
What about...

For all you "been there done that" folks on this job, in modding an XJ that has 100,000 miles on it but spent it's previous life in 2H:

Would you pull the TC and do all bearings and seals? Or just what we can get to doing an SYE? This of course providing it doesn't have bearing noise/slop or leaking forward seals.

Thanks.
 
Re: What about...

X E Ryder said:
For all you "been there done that" folks on this job, in modding an XJ that has 100,000 miles on it but spent it's previous life in 2H:

Would you pull the TC and do all bearings and seals? Or just what we can get to doing an SYE? This of course providing it doesn't have bearing noise/slop or leaking forward seals.

Thanks.
Click to expand...

No, Not me at least, bought my jeep at 98k, I did my SYE at ~110k, now 140 still going.
 
Here ya go!

OK, after reading all this, I realized Most of the parts breakdowns for the NP231 I have seen do NOT show the incidental parts you may need to replace or identify. Dan is the Man for keying me into this - Thanks!

So have a look at this complete NP231 Diagram:

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/images/parts/Chrysler/fullsize/0000066L.jpg

And then you can watch this guy on YouTube and pick out exactly which O-rings and/or seals you may want to change.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoNNoXQNgVA

It made a whole lot more sense which parts might be worn and where they fit in to watch and refernce that diagram!

Finally, I found this place has everything in stock for a good price.

http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/...ukey_driveline=0&ukey_trimlevel=0&modelYear=0

I'm actually stoked to do the job now that the mystery about the little parts has been removed! :eeks1:
 
rstarch345 said:
Don't wanna be the devils advocate here, but be prepared for problems. The topmost bolt connecting the T-case to the trans was froze solid on mine. By time I got everything loose enough to get the T-case lower where I could get more leverage, I had 5 hours into the job. Once the T-case was out, the job went quickly.

I would agree, when I did the job a second time, I didn't drop the T-case and just did it all in place. Substantially faster, but I did know a bit more by then as well.
Click to expand...

Agree with leaving it in the truck. My buddy and I did his while it was already out of his truck. When we did mine we just left it in and worked under the jeep. No reason to pull it if you don't need to.
 
I love when people go extremely overboard in their stories of how fast they can do something. Lets be honest here. just pulling the front and rear driveshaft will take your average person 20 mins or so and thats if they are really working at a "get it done" pace.
Click to expand...

You've obviously never worked flat rate ;) I'd bet my life that I could have both shafts out in under 5 minutes, given a lift and the proper tools. Heck, even in the sand, pouring rain, and mosquitos feasting on my flesh, I still had the front shaft in, in about 15 minutes using a 8mm wrench.

My point was, it's not hard. DON'T take the case out. Total waste of time. The bolts will seize against the trans, they're a pain in the ass to reach, and the entire process is unnecessary. Not to mention, once it's out, you still have to tear it apart.

Watch the video a few times, gather your tools, and get it done. I think you'll be surprised how 'not hard' it is. I won't say easy because there's always potential for a project to go south.
 
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