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Donkey punch clunk after Dana 44 install

DanMan2k06

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Damascus, MD
In an attempt to get my ass moving and order gears for my front axle, I threw in my rear 44 today with 4.88's. What a freakin nightmare. Seized e-brake cables, new u-bolt plates wouldn't fit over my centerpin, broke u-joint strap bolt in the yoke, and brake lines that wouldn't line up. For something that should have taken an hour it took nearly 10. Granted, it was in my driveway and not at work.

Anyways, after getting everything installed and pulling the front shaft, i took her for a spin. Right away I noticed a HUGE clunk when shifting from park to reverse. So bad, I though I had left the straps on the driveshaft u-joints loose. Everything was tight, so I kept going. Once moving around 40mph, the clunk was again noticeable on acceleration and deceleration. It's the worst if I let off and then hit the gas again right away. Checked my joints again, checked my u-bolts, wheels, and just about everything in between. I had my little bro hop in and shift between reverse and drive, and I can SEE the driveshaft moving at the output shaft of the t-case, what looks like a lot more than normal. Maybe 1/8 - 1/4 of a revolution. Is there slack or play in something inside the case? I'm a little confused here. She goes on the lift tomorrow for further inspection.
 
I assume no clunk before installing the D44? What locker? Have you looked inside the D44?
 
IIRC, the D44 differential snout is shorter than the 8.25 (if that's what you had before). If your transfer case has the stock slip yoke, you probably need a longer driveshaft to better engage the transfer case output splines.
 
I'm pretty sure the D44 is 1" longer than the 8.25, meaning the shaft would be shorter offering better spline engagement.

Based on what you described it sounds like the backlash is way off.
 
I'm pretty sure the D44 is 1" longer than the 8.25, meaning the shaft would be shorter offering better spline engagement.

This is correct.

I've had a similar noise shifting into reverse since my 44 swap. Running a Yukon Grizzly locker and Yukon Gears.
 
If you have a lunchbox locker, this is basically normal play for it. If you are running an open carrier then there is some kind of serious issue. I don't think the backlash can be so far off as to allow 1/4 turn of play. I'm guessing you have a lunchbox or full case auto locker and the play is normal.
 
Sorry left out a few details. Powertraxx no slip, and went from a 35 to the 44. This is xjman's old axle. Definitely no clunks before. I'm going to pull the cover tonight To change the fluid, and investigate to make sure everything's kosher.
 
don't want to hijack the thread but I to am experiencing this issue with my 8.25, 4.56 gearing, and a Detroit locker. only during engagement from Park to reverse to drive. it does it 95% of the time but some times RARELY when I back out of my drive way and go into drive it will engage smoothly (no clunk). I to also have some play in my drive shaft about an 1/8 (could be more) while i turn it by hand. and when i let off the pedal it will clunk slightly. No humming while driving and no teeth missing on the ring or pinion..Again my apologizes Dan don't want to take your thread over or anything just want to know what this could be
 
don't want to hijack the thread but I to am experiencing this issue with my 8.25, 4.56 gearing, and a Detroit locker. only during engagement from Park to reverse to drive. it does it 95% of the time but some times RARELY when I back out of my drive way and go into drive it will engage smoothly (no clunk). I to also have some play in my drive shaft about an 1/8 (could be more) while i turn it by hand. and when i let off the pedal it will clunk slightly. No humming while driving and no teeth missing on the ring or pinion..Again my apologizes Dan don't want to take your thread over or anything just want to know what this could be

welcome to detroit lockers.
 
Yup, i guess didn't realize lunchboxes/no slips were so noisy. If it is in fact normal, I could care less I'll just ignore it. Just wanted to make sure something wasn't on its way to grenading. I'll pull the cover tonight, change the fluid, check out the r&p and call it a day.
 
Normal for an autolocker and automatic transmission in my experience. Change the fluid, check things out, and if nothing looks out or order, button it back up and run it worry free.
 
he said no-slip...

There should be No loud bang or thump with that locker. Reason for spending 100-300$ more then typ insert counterpart...

Wonder if the syncro tab was broken off? Google if you dont know what it is. Its a typ no slip issue when installing, and installer doesnt pay attention to it...
 
Well I thought all was well until you chimed in lol.

I opened it up last night and everything looked ok, but I'm also a total squid when it comes to gears and related. No broken teeth on the ring, no ridiculously worn looking parts, and no chunks or pieces of metal in the fluid. I threw on some new RTV and some Hypoy C and was ready to call it a day. Now you make me want to open her back up for a more thorough inspection.

Edit: I just re-read the classified from xj-man that he posted last year, and it says "powertraxx locker"... so now I don't know if he was using the term generically or if it really is indeed a locker. If I open it up and take some pics, will you guys be able to tell??
 
I'm pretty sure the D44 is 1" longer than the 8.25, meaning the shaft would be shorter offering better spline engagement.

Based on what you described it sounds like the backlash is way off.

The Dana 44 and 8.25 are very close in pinion length. Both are around 1 inch longer than a Dana 35 and ford 8.8
 
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