How to get out and get new brake line in with lots of bends?

The hard line broke replacing my brake hose inside the driver fender. I have un-threaded from the pump and disconnected all the brackets , but how the hell do I get this out without taking out the master cylinder that is greatly in The way. Further more if I bend new line how the hell would I get it back in ? If I'm missing something someone please share. This one comes out of the pump, goes down under MC, takes a left, goes back up and through fender bending several more times in opposite directions. thanks

You might consider using a double female tubing connector and just replace the bad or busted part of the tubing. But make sure you use high pressure fittings like swagelock (TM). Question is, does all the tubing need to go due to severe corrosion, or was this an isolated bad spot or mechanical damage?

I recently saved a buddy $250 replacing the transmission lines that run to the radiator, when all he had was mechanical wear spot hole on the steel tubing, we cut the bad spot out with a tubing cutter (Home Depot plumbing) and used a short piece of new steel tubing and a pair for double female tubing connectors for the patch.

I am not sure what the tubing size is on the brake lines, this is just a guess, and probably too large:

http://www.swagelok.com/search/find...-6&item=20b6dcb5-5a04-42f1-9df7-a5d3fd3672c3#

But it gets you started. There are other cheaper brands (some of the auto cats might have them for custom fuel lines, like JEGS), but make sure you get high pressure fittings steel or stainless steel, as the brake lines are very high pressure, 5000 to 10,000 psi would be my GUESS! ?? Cheap 100-150 psi Brass ones will not work!

http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/ms-01-140.pdf

Edit: On second thought the brakes lines tend to use compression flared ends (maybe because they are more reusable friendly?), so a flare tool and flared connectors might be better, not sure.

Jegs is also not cheap, but easy to shop!!!

http://www.jegs.com/c/Fittings-Hose/181705/10002/-1

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/KeywordSearchCmd?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&langId=-1&Ntk=all&Jnar=0&Ne=1%2B2%2B3%2B13%2B1147708&searchTerm=brake+line+fitiings

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...1+2+3+13+1147708&searchTerm=brake+line+repair

Anyway, some thing to think about, as pulling and rerunning new tubing can be a real PAIN!!! And hard to get sometimes. If you go with new tubing, buy a good tubing bender!!!!!!

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/63030/10002/-1 $10 tubing bender

You might consider using a double female tubing connector and just replace the bad or busted part of the tubing

Click to expand...

This is what happened My buddy helped me with the flaring. All was good until a brake bleeder broke in wheel cylinder. haha

I don't believe that compression type fittings are legal for brake tubing in the US, just FYI. must use double flare or ISO "bubble" flare. (Jeeps use double flare typically)

Yes of course we used Unions and double flares not compression.

Replacing a piece is fine if you can find a rust free area on the line, and if you can easily get the double flare tool onto it and get a good flare. It can be tricky in place. However, if the line is difficult to put back in in one piece, you could prepare a two piece line with a joint in it. I've never worked on an ABS model before, but for the old line, can you just cut it into pieces as little as required? Get the snips and cut it off at the fittings, then wrench the fittings off?

that's how I would do it, if you have to replace the whole line, and then when installing the new line do the first couple bends, put it loosely on the ABS HCU and then bend the rest of the line while it's in place. Might work for most situations, I'm sure there's going to be one where even that will end up being a PITA and you'll have to do a two piece line.