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Tie Rod Flip Inserts

I used them when I did my WJ conversion, I chose to flip all three
They work well, just make sure they get welded on good, I tried the first time with a 110 wire feed, and that didn't quite cut it
 
I'll make sure I weld the inserts really good. It's an offroad rig only, so Im not concerned about high speed performance. Just looking to get a little more clearance for cheap. I want to flip the draglink too, but wanted to see if anyone else has with good results. Thanks for the input!
 
you will have to use a right hand drive draglink to flip it so that the tierod ties in on the correct side
 
Cant the tierod ball joint mount on either side of the draglink with the insert?

Go outside and look at the bend of your draglink. Now think about how that would work when trying to flip on to the top.
 
i run the go fer it on the tie rod. welded it up with my 110 lincoln sp135 and cleaned the surfaces and so far its looking great. i love the decreased steering angles and the 3" + raised tie rod. its nice and flat now. . it actually drives much better. i had to cut the driver side sway bar axle side mount off the axle for clearance at full lock so keep that in mind, but im running currie steering. I never put the sways back on and it drives like a dream, takes corners very well on the freeway now (i think that has more to do with dropping from 5.5 to 4.5 coils amongst other things like welding trackbar bracket but who knows)
i was lazy and didnt pull the knuckle off, did it on the vehicle. got splatter all over the brake rotor. luckily i have a pile of them , but it was stupid. i bought a HF big drill bit set for 30$. paid for itself already, otherwise a 3/4" bit is 30$ itself.
 
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I run a RHD draglink w/ inserts on both knuckles, removed both swaybar brackets. Doesn't seem to drive much differently than under the knuckle, but has quite a bit more clearance. One thing I would have done, that I didn't, is get 3 inserts and drill out draglink for your stabilizer, the tapered hole now runs the wrong direction w/ the RHD draglink.
 
Thanks for all the insight. I forgot about the bend in my draglink to flip it to the top. No biggie, though. The tie rod seems to be the most vulnerable anyway. I'm sleeving a new (from junk yard) tie rod that i picked up after I "TACO"ed my other one at the Hammers. Sure there are nice heavy duty steering kits that I could buy, but it is a "cheap" Jeep, and the less money I can spend on it and still wheel it, the better I feel.
 
I've got a RHD draglink with about 300 miles on it sitting in the garage. Lmk if you're interested in buying it. One of the boots is torn but other than that its in great shape.
 
I've got a RHD draglink with about 300 miles on it sitting in the garage. Lmk if you're interested in buying it. One of the boots is torn but other than that its in great shape.

Thanks for the offer. I think I'm just going to flip the tie rod end on the driver side, sleeve the tie rod with some scrap tubing for extra strength, and then do the ZJ upgrade WHEN I bend it all up again. I just have this addiction of going over rocks too big for the steering to handle!
 
Every rock is too big for the stock steering lol
 
Eh mine lived for a while, finally made it frown bumping over rocks in 2WD in cougar buttes

No problems with the JKS WJ steering so far, a TRE should break long before the tube bends
 
Look for a V8 ZJ tierod

I just did some searching on this idea. I like it. Thanks for pointing me in that direction!

Thanks for the offer. I think I'm just going to flip the tie rod end on the driver side, sleeve the tie rod with some scrap tubing for extra strength, and then do the ZJ upgrade WHEN I bend it all up again. I just have this addiction of going over rocks too big for the steering to handle!
Yes, the ZJ Tire rod is an upgrade, but if you put the items NEW.. might as well buy an aftermarket tie rod. I have a inroman4x4fab tie rod with moog TRE's and its BEEF. You can pick em up around 100$ with TRE's. If you can find a ZJ V8 tie rod for CHEAP, then it might be worth it.
 
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