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STILL OVERHEATING!!!

Yardog

Yardog

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Ontario, Oregon
My 98 overheats. I have new all aluminum radiator, dirtbound offroad triple electric fans, new stock water pump, new thermostat, we back flushed the heater core. Whenever I pull hills on or offroad it overheats. It has a/c but I haven't been using it. Usually I can stop turn the heater on and it will pop back from 260 to 230 quickly. I am thinking head gasket but no water in oil, no vapor smoke, or any other head gasket indicators. The only thing I haven't tried is bypassing the tranny cooler in the radiator. Could the tranny cooler be the source of my problem? Or should I just pull the head?:bawl:
 
Is the gauge correct?
Try hooking a scanner up there is two sensors one that is used for the gauge and one that is used for the computer see if they both read the same.

Do you have any kind off hood vent? Cherokees are very tight engine bays you need to let the hot air out just as bad as sucking in cool air.

Stupid question but are all the fans running?
 
Thanks.... I actually do have Run Cool hood vents. Fans are running. I will check tranny temp and make sure torque converter lockup switch is connected. I will check temp against guage in dash also. The thing does get HOT it boils coolant out of overflow when guage pegs. Thanks again for your replies I hope I can figure this out.. Very frustrating
 
Do you have a spring in your lower radiator hose?

High rpm downshifts on hills will suck the hose shut. No surprising considering you put a new pump in. Stopping allows the engine to idle and the hose to open, circulating coolant.
 
even though im new, i feel this general question (what lift?) if repeated over and over again.


I feel sorry for the guys that has been on this for years and years
 
I have noticed that after I put my 33's on with 3.55's I would start to overheat if I drove hard(motor and tranny working even harder).after my old radiator blew up(plastic tanks) I replaced it with a csf 2 core and still get hot once in awhile with a/c and heavy foot.my conclusion is that the rads built in tranny cooler is adding the heat too the coolant making the engine run warmer.

also what size lift,tires, and gears?
 
crash02 said:
I have noticed that after I put my 33's on with 3.55's I would start to overheat if I drove hard(motor and tranny working even harder).after my old radiator blew up(plastic tanks) I replaced it with a csf 2 core and still get hot once in awhile with a/c and heavy foot.my conclusion is that the rads built in tranny cooler is adding the heat too the coolant making the engine run warmer.

also what size lift,tires, and gears?
Click to expand...

3 inch lift, D30 frt, 8.25 rear, 4.56 gears, Toyo MT 31/10.50s, Black D window steel rims, ARB front and rear. Rusty's skid plates, JCR bumpers, Warn winch, Garvin roof rack, (lots of weight). I was thinking the same thing about the tranny cooler.
 
Test the coolant for exhaust gasses. If it test positive you have a blown headgasket. It is still possible to have a blown head gasket even if you don't test positive but it does help in your diagnosis.

I had a hard time finding the kit at Autozone and O'Rielys but NAPA had it for 40 bucks.
 
blubullett said:
Test the coolant for exhaust gasses. If it test positive you have a blown headgasket. It is still possible to have a blown head gasket even if you don't test positive but it does help in your diagnosis.

I had a hard time finding the kit at Autozone and O'Rielys but NAPA had it for 40 bucks.
Click to expand...

its possible to have blown head gasket even if block test is negative? what other test can be done besides pulling the head? (assuming coolant is clean and not lost)
 
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