Check the side of the block in front of the distributor for undersize codes. Make sure all the caps are marked properly (I had one motor with the same number cap twice), The caps go on like they came off. I plasti gauge the connecting rods top and bottom, you will get different values. It's best to have a selection of bearings, in my experience standard and one over, but have a ten over set available (located at the parts store) if you need it. You can return the bearings if you don't need them. If I have a choice of too tight and a little loose, but within tolerance, I choose loose, You can mix standard and one over bearings to get the desired results. I usually use the larger bearing half in the top, because it wears faster. Too tight bearings can burn up quick, tighter isn't always better.
Have at least five cans of brake cleaner available. Oil dissolves plasti gauge so your motor parts need to be clean. I used Loc Tite on the connecting rod bolts, for the final assembly. Next time I'm going with new nuts.
I also opened up the bottom, put a big pan under the motor and sprayed down the whole underside of the engine the night before and let it drip off all night. Trying to do this job with oil constantly dripping in your eyes (or on your glasses) is next to impossible. Have bunch of shop towels handy.
You have to break in the new bearings, just like a new motor.
I coat the bearings in synthetic gear oil before final assembly, I've also used moly assembly lube. Pre oiling the motor is likely the smart thing to do before the first start up.
I use blocks of styro foam for the pan bolts etc. makes a life a whole lot easier if you have them organized by size and location for reassembly. You'll need some rubber tubing to cover the rod bolts when doing your measurements. Take your time and have plenty of light available. Also not a bad idea to have some Crocus cloth available. Also a dial gauge to check for tapper on the journals.
