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CSF 3-Row Radiators- NOT Discontinued!

D

DPG

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Kansas
Hey guys,
I've received numerous phone calls this week regarding the CSF 3-row radiators.
Some of you may remember that CSF said they were going to discontinue my favorite radiator, and I posted that info back then to let people know that they'd better get their radiator if they wanted one.
I don't know if there was a storm of complaints about that or what, but they made the decision then to keep this unit in production- at least for now.

Some people are reading the first part of that old post and calling to see if we have any "leftovers" of these units in stock.

I just wanted to clarify that these radiators are still in production at this time!!!:cheers:

I almost replied to that "discontinued" post but figured it was better left to die...

Mods- maybe that would be a good post to delete...?

At any rate, they are still available at this time...

Thanks!
Dirk
 
DieselSJ said:
Don't know why everyone is so hot on these things. The two row with big tubes cools so much better. At least it does on the racer. I'm just sayin...
Click to expand...

care to share which one? only time i've ever had cooling problems after i replaced everything (rad, WP, heater valve, thermo...) was going fast out in the desert. couldnt go for more than 15-20 minutes flat out without overheating.
 
DieselSJ said:
Don't know why everyone is so hot on these things. The two row with big tubes cools so much better. At least it does on the racer. I'm just sayin...
Click to expand...
No. No, it doesn't.

CSF's 3-row outcools their 2-row hands down.

We've used both of them in too many XJ's over the years for there to be any doubt...

There's been a long-standing internet MYTH that all 2-rows cool better than all 3-rows. That's silly. If a different company makes a 2-row that cools better, so be it. In 10 years plus of using most all of them on the market, I've never seen it- at least not without dropping $500-600.00 on a super expensive all aluminum job.

The # of rows in a radiator are just one factor in determining cooling performance. In many applications, more rows can cool better- some not.
Just depends on the application.

The reason why folks are so hot on these rads is that they work.:sunshine:

Of course, that's not what this post was about in the first place. Just wanted to set the record straight so people would know the status...
 
CrazyEli said:
what is the csf 3 row made of? all i can find is "all metal" is that brass or copper?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Well, there's only a couple of options available in the radiator world.
The factory radiators are the "plastic" end tanks crimped to aluminum rows, which are known to leak.

Other all-metal radiators will either be all aluminum or traditional brass/copper type construction.

The CSF rads are the traditional materials.

All aluminum radiators are MUCH more expensive for quality units (like Ron Davis racing) or are cheap lower quality stuff that many have had problems with.
The CSF 3-row is the best product we've seen over the last 7or 8 years when you consider cooling performance, reliability and price point.
 
yeah these CSF rads are really beefy. Also Dirk my D60 ARB cover finally came in, you weren't kidding that ARB took its time drop shipping stuff.

I guess if they were really gonna stop production you should just order a couple hundred to keep on hand :D
 
When my CSF arrived, the fill spout was dented from shipping... it worked ok, but there's a small leak coming from it and I don't know if its repairable or not. I tried fixing it myself but can't get it good enough to get a solid seal. Can a radiator shop fix this?
 
The are good enough that I never have to turn the Taurus fan on low at anything under 70 degrees unless in heavy traffic, and I've only had to turn the high side on a few times during 100+ degree days while idling.
 
ert01 said:
When my CSF arrived, the fill spout was dented from shipping...
Click to expand...

I have bought 2 of them in the last 6 months and both arrived with the filler necks both bent downwards during shipping.. No leaks, but had to give them a quick upward jerk to straighten them out.
They cool great though....glad they arent discontinued
 
Hey guys,
on the bent filler neck thing- Our warehouse adds extra packing to these units, but you all know how UPS is...:smsoap:
I think they could break an anvil!

The design of the XJ radiator makes the filler neck somewhat vulnerable, even with extra packing.

If the neck is just slightly bent, it can often be straightened by simply installing the radiator cap or maybe carefully bending the filler with needlenose pliers.

However- if it is tweaked or seriously bent, please just let us know. We'll send another one out right away and pick that one up.
If there's a manufacturers defect and it is leaking at a seam, etc, we'll send you another unit while it's under warranty.

If you run a branch through the radiator on the trail, that one's on you...;)

The majority of them make it to their destination just fine, but the UPS factor tells us that a few will need some attention...
 
on the bent filler neck thing- If you don't want to hassle with a return/exchange or try the pliers trick, most radiator shops can fix you up with a new filler neck for about $25.
 
Tim_MN said:
on the bent filler neck thing- If you don't want to hassle with a return/exchange or try the pliers trick, most radiator shops can fix you up with a new filler neck for about $25.
Click to expand...

True enough.
Most often, it's just the lip where the cap screws on that's bent a little and that's an easy fix.

If there's any doubt though, we will certainly take care of it.
 
DPG said:
If you run a branch through the radiator on the trail, that one's on you...;)
Click to expand...
that's one reason I always suggest copper/brass for trail rigs - with $20 in tools and materials added to the trail kit (plumber's torch, flux, solder, striker, steel wire brush) you can solder up the hole (after draining the coolant) and go back to wheeling.

Fixing an aluminum radiator requires either specialized solder or more expensive equipment.
 
DPG said:
Most often, it's just the lip where the cap screws on that's bent a little and that's an easy fix.
Click to expand...


Wasnt the lip on my two..... it was the whole neck.
Both were identically bent down. They were bent down far enough towards the trans cooler fitting that the tranny line nut had no room to start on the fitting.

A quick pull up on the filler neck and problem was solved........ no leaks and Im happy.
 
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