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After searching, I'm still at a loss - where does one find TRE's for custom steering?

YELLAHEEP

YELLAHEEP

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Littleton, Colorado
Someone's gotta know where to get this info - too many of you guys out there running crossover and high steer setups. I'm looking to cobble together a DOM tube drag link and center link, but can't seem to find any info about the TRE's you all are using. I'm particularly interested in the right side TRE that has the hole in it for the drag link TRE. Hook a 'brutha up here guys! :D
 
what thread size are you looking to run?

are you looking to run the oem knuckle taper, or would you be willing to open it up a wee bit?

have you TOTALLY ruled out hiems?
 
Some good info here. This is what Eric and my steering are based on:
http://www.vintagebronco.com/newberry/pages/tech/tre/tre2.html

frontend1.jpg


Hey Beez, remember that guy that always said heims suck? I think he was going to make some t-shirts that said that. Whatever happened to that guy?
 
I've been doing the same research. Here's what I've got:
part numbers:
ES2233L
ES2234R
ES2027L
ES2026R

Those should be both ends for the tie rod and drag link. I believe they're from an '85 Blazer. The taper on the ends is 7*. The threads are 7/8-18 right and left hand.
I'm going to use 1.25" DOM with an ID of 1" and weld in some inserts that accept the TREs. You can do that or get smaller ID DOM and tap it.

Hope that helps :D
 
Yella'.....

I've used(and experiemented) with several TRE's, and the two numbers that stick in my head are:

375 L&R

and 150 L&R

both of these have a 3/4-16 thread, which is what you probably want if you are going to tap or weld-bung your DOM.....

the 150 has a taper close to, if not exactly what the jeep knuckle is....(I'm pulling this out of my crappy memory bank....this is my spobi release form)

the 375's have a bigger taper, something like .770 major/.660 minor, and a tapered reamer would be needed to enlarge your knuckle opening.

also, the 375's have a dogleg....

I have both pairs sitting in the basement if you need a pic.

I have a bunch of other tre's but I've ruled them out for use in previous projects....I'll have to remember why.
 
JeepFreak21 said:
I've been doing the same research. Here's what I've got:
part numbers:
ES2233L
ES2234R
ES2027L
ES2026R

Those should be both ends for the tie rod and drag link. I believe they're from an '85 Blazer. The taper on the ends is 7*. The threads are 7/8-18 right and left hand.
I'm going to use 1.25" DOM with an ID of 1" and weld in some inserts that accept the TREs. You can do that or get smaller ID DOM and tap it.

Hope that helps :D
Click to expand...

I mean 1.5" OD :D I don't think I want a 1/8" wall :rolleyes:
 
Try Scott @ Rockstomper.

He will drill and tap the end of tube, and has the TRE's in stock.
 
Tim at shakerbuilt has the lengths and everything for a typical XJ lifted setup. I think they were something like $140 shipped to me for the draglink and tie rod. If you're using the 7/8" shank TRE's mentioned above.

I ran the taper down through the stock knuckle to fit the larger chevy taper. Had to cut off the steering stab mount and the sway bar tabs and relocate but that's not a huge deal.

pics at http://xj4rocks.dyndns.org/xj4rocks/tech/steering/index.htm
 
i just finished my threaded tube sleeves for my 3/4 ton tre convertion. using tre's from a dodge moog #es2010L & es2010R
they are 7/8-18 thread
fb1c319b.jpg


one is a right hand, and one is a left hand, going to make 1 long tie rod to connect between the wheels, then one from the pitman arm to the dana 44 high steer arm.

scot
 
Those use a stock taper, right?
 
Beezil said:
Yella'...

the 150 has a taper close to, if not exactly what the jeep knuckle is....(I'm pulling this out of my.................
Click to expand...

Troy, the MOOG ES 150 tre's are standard Ford and Chevy 1/2 ton truck stuff, find them anywhere.
They are one taper size larger than the XJ so you'll have to ream the knuckle. I used them at all 4 points on my Paul Sinclair-inspired OTK inverted Y setup (yet to be Moab tested) with success. I used weld in bungs and .188 wall DOM (3/16) tube.

While there will be some arguement on the adequate DOM tube strength and wall thickness, it's all relative to tire size, terrain and wheeling style. If you tend to drive alot with the right foot or have big tires (bigger than 32's) or wheel in big rocks/trees/jump stuff then you may want to consider thicker wall DOM than I used. I personally think that anything larger than .250 wall DOM is overkill for an XJ, but there's always exceptions..........as mentioned earlier.
YMMV:)
 
I think 3/16" is very adequate. My tie rod is 1.25"/ .25"wall dom and it's taken a beating. It has broken a knuckle because it wouldn't bend first I believe. I used to run .120 wall but it bent everytime I took it out, but I wasn't worried about my knuckles breaking either.
 
JeepFreak21 said:
I mean 1.5" OD :D I don't think I want a 1/8" wall :rolleyes:
Click to expand...
Be sure you take this into account when you buy hi-steer arms and get them a little longer than normal. My 1.25 TR is about 1/2 away from the top edge of the diff cover at neutral position. A 1.5 TR would most likely hit the diff cover lock to lock. On the stock steering arms you'll most likely be all into the diff cover.
 
Hey Thanks Guys! That's a whole bunch more info than I thought I'd get! Maybe I'll have something to show for your efforts by Moab!

Am I to assume that all the part #'s you guys gave are Moog parts or are some of those NAPA or? I suppose they can be cross referenced.
 
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