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Plan to remove sludge and change seals/gaskets

H

hupo224

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Manchester, NJ
Speedometer/Odometer supposedly "stopped" the day I picked the Jeep up (last week). So as far as I know there is 180k on the motor. Found sludge on the oil cap and inside. I plan to use Rislone Engine Oil Treatment. I plan to do about 3-4 oil changes within 1 week. I have done a lot of reading and I chose to go with Rislone because it slowly breaks down sludge. So it won't clog anything.

"Rislone Engine Treatment gradually dissolves and removes harmful deposits of varnish, sludge and gum from the internal metal parts without plugging oil passages"

Also going to clean the motor/trans/tc with Black Magic engine degreaser and shine. My friend used some on my motor and it really worked. It cleans under the hood (brought the color back to damn near perfect) and can be used on fender flares and other plastics.

I'm doing this so I can see what is leaking so that I can replace it. I plan to do valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket, trans pan, rms, ofa and oil pump (with the ho oil pump).

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Personally, I would save the money and just start running a good quality diesel motor oil, change it every 3000 miles or 3-months, whichever comes first.
 
joe_peters said:
Personally, I would save the money and just start running a good quality diesel motor oil, change it every 3000 miles or 3-months, whichever comes first.
Click to expand...

What if I do the "rislone" for a couple of quick oil changes then run diesel oil? I plan to add the rislone every oil change as it keeps the oil fresh and new.
 
Once you get that mess cleaned out, you are just wasting money by adding a treatment (of whatever kind) to a quality motor oil. Modern top quality motor oils (the only kind you want to use) stay as "fresh and new" as necessary between properly scheduled changes.

I will say that, while I use Shell Rotella "diesel" oil with all of its detergent benefits, I have to wonder how many years of use it would take to initially clean up a motor in the condition yours is in. I'll be the first to admit that I don't know the answer.
 
What ever you want to do. Rislone is a very slow acting, so I don't know if a couple of applications would make any difference in the short term.
 
As for Rotella, I bought a junkyard motor, an HO, which I installed into a rEnix XJ. I had to change the valve cover to make it work. Under the valve cover and all over the top of the head and rockers was that dried "peanut skin" kind of oil residue, not unlike the photos posted. I put 15w40 Rotella in it and lit her off. Immediately I noticed I had some smoking so did the proper tests. Drove it for 1000 miles working out the bugs. Valve seals were bad. I removed the valve cover to install the valve seals and the Rotella had already softened up the "peanut skin" residue into a film which could be wiped clean with a rag. Hope this actual experience helps you to decide on the route to take to de-sludge your engine.
 
I am going to use a high detergent diesel oil as well as the rislone for a slow but succesful clean up. Either this weekend or next weekend I am deciding to change my rms. Drove an hour away yesterday and notice that she was leaking oil onto the exhaust from what I'm positive is the rms. The smoke would even come through the rust hole in my passenger floor. So I figure when I actually do gaskets and seals that I'll be able to help get the bulk of the sludge out.
 
souske said:
what about substituting a quart of atf in the oil change?
Click to expand...

If you do that DON'T DRIVE OR REV UP THE ENGINE with the ATF in it. Let the engine idle for about 20 minutes, then change the oil/filter.
 
option two pull the motor, pan and valve cover and clean it all out with rags, cleaner and good old elbow grease. then you can replace the seals too and know it won't leak all over the place... at least for a few months or so.
 
joe_peters said:
If you do that DON'T DRIVE OR REV UP THE ENGINE with the ATF in it. Let the engine idle for about 20 minutes, then change the oil/filter.
Click to expand...
Okay then I'll do that tomorrow with cheap oil and cheap oil filter. Just add one quart of atf to the oil change? Then I'll put diesel 15w40 in it with the the rislone. And change it once or twice a week with the same kind of oil and rislone. Then I will change the oil pump, rms, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket and ofa seal. Anyone suggest a specific diesel oil I should use?
Stihl029 said:
option two pull the motor, pan and valve cover and clean it all out with rags, cleaner and good old elbow grease. then you can replace the seals too and know it won't leak all over the place... at least for a few months or so.
Click to expand...

I really am trying to avoid this route.


edit: also would it be okay to put some diesel fuel in the first oil change with the atf?

Also I hear 4.0 loves rotella diesel oil. Should I go with this?
 
Last edited:
I use Shell Rotella 10w30 dino, pick it up at Walmart in gallon jugs. Any good diesel motor oil will work--watch for sales at some of the truck stops.

I would drain off one quart of the oil that is in there, replace with one quart ATF, run it 20 minutes at idle, NOT UNDER A LOAD, drain and change filter, refill with oil and rislone and follow the Rislone directions. Maybe do Rislone a second time, after that just the oil should be good enough.
 
tazz said:
Is that what you use all the time? What is the + too the diesel motor oil?
Click to expand...

Yeah do you use it all the time? Or just for cleaning the engine. And what's "dino". Looks like i'm hitting up walmart tomorrow. Any specific oil filter I should get? Napa is like 35 minutes away so I have advance, pep boys, auto zone, strauss and a family part shack place.
 
Dinosaur--dino, vs. synthetic. Synthetic is fine if you want it.
 
Yeah, not greatly so. I'm in low mileage mode, end up changing the oil every 3-months on the XJ, can't see spending extra for synthetic.
 
3 years now in the XJ.
 
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