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JEEP STARTS and then DIES, 91 xj limited - add starting fluid and it runs

dshaff24

NAXJA Forum User
Location
pa
Okay here is my deal!! I would love to hear some hardcore Xj owner's experiences on this one!

1991 jeep cherokee limited
new cps - distributor w/cam sensor - plugs - wires - cap n rotor - battery - starter - fresh oil/filter

When I bought it I drove it onto the trailer and when I got home it wouldn't start to Thats why the above stuff was all replaced, Turned out it was the cam sensor in the distributor! Anyway I got it running and Started building it for offroad trips and I pulled it outside the shop yesterday running PERFECT and today I went out to start it and

" ITS starts right up and runs for 2-4 seconds and Stalls, IF I give it gas it will stall even faster! "

If I use starting fluid it will run perfect till I stop spraying it! Then it dies!

SO WHAT IM seeing is FUEL ISSUE,

FUEL PUMP primes, and you can even hear it after it starts for that whole 2 seconds so I really don't think its the pump,

I checked fuel pressure at the rail by just pressing on the valve and it shot fuel across the passenger fender so I would say we are good on that

IM THINKING THE fuel injectors are shutting down!

I JUMPED THE RESISTOR on the drivers side with no luck

I added 5 gallon of fuel just to cross that off my list

Its got a new cps and Camshaft sensor so I would hope that those are fine

I locked and unlocked the door in case of security with no luck

Checked relay's, Swapped them around with no luck

Its got spark! and I put it in time when I put the distributor in, In fact I ran the jeep for a week before this happend

ANY KIND OF ADVICE TO HELP ME DIAGNOSE or past experience would be GREAT!!!
 
Whats your fuel pressure? a noid light tester will help you check if injectors are pulsing.
 
You've correctly identified a "fuel delivery" problem. And jumpering the ballast resistor should eliminate that from the equation.

It would be a good idea to get an actual fuel pressure gauge on the schrader valve on the fuel rail as the engine management system needs to see a certain pressure achieved to work properly. Pressing on the schrader valve to see if there is presssure only indicates "some" pressure, not how much. If you took it to a shop, this would be one of the first things a technician would do.

I believe on your vintage, you're looking for around 31 psi, 39 psi when running with the fuel pressure regulator disconnected.

The fuel injectors themselves are working fine as indicated by the fact that starting fluid keeps them running.
 
X2 on the pressure tester-- it's the only way to know for sure

running on ether (starting fluid) bypasses the injectors and fuel delivery system, so I'd check for injector signal if pressure is found to be good.
 
Its got normal fuel pressure reading @ start and running, MY issue is the injectors run for 2-3 seconds then they cut fuel on me!

That ballast resistor is fine, I bypassed it with no luck!

Fuel pressure is good running and starting!

Anyone ever hear of this b4?
 
Ok, sounds like the fuel pump relay to me.

When you first turn the key to ON you get power to the fuel pump from the ASD relay for the "prime", then the PCM cuts the ground if it hasn't received a crank sensor signal.

When you turn the key to START you get power to the fuel pump through the starter relay.

When your engine is running, idle all the way to just short of WOT, you get power to the fuel pump through the fuel pump relay.

When your engine is running at WOT, you get power to the fuel pump through the oxygen heater relay.

Really sounds like the fuel pump relay is not working to me.
 
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