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Source for a SYE for the 242 case?

T

The Adam Blaster

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Alberta
I'm looking to get a true SYE (not hack 'n tap) for my '98's 242 T-case.
It seems to be a difficult kit to find...
Anyone suggest a reasonably priced source?
 
The Adam Blaster said:
I'm looking to get a true SYE (not hack 'n tap) for my '98's 242 T-case.
It seems to be a difficult kit to find...
Anyone suggest a reasonably priced source?
Click to expand...

There are really none available (Using a Heavy Duty shaft like used on a 231), There is no room in the 242 case for an HD shaft.
Even the Tom Woods SYE for the 242 is a hack & tap, The difference is that he Hacks & Taps the stock 242 shaft in his shop instead of you doing it while it is on the jeep.
 
garr said:
There are really none available (Using a Heavy Duty shaft like used on a 231), There is no room in the 242 case for an HD shaft.
Even the Tom Woods SYE for the 242 is a hack & tap, The difference is that he Hacks & Taps the stock 242 shaft in his shop instead of you doing it while it is on the jeep.
Click to expand...

The difference, though, is that his setup does not use a flange-style adapter like a 'regular' hack & tap does; it adds a fixed-yoke output. See here for the early-style kit and here for the late style kit.
 
Hmmmm...
Is it worth while to change to the 231 unit?
This is my 3rd vehicle, it's never going to be a daily driver again, but I will need it to drive well on the highway because any decent 'wheeling is 1.5+ hours away...
 
Ditto-Tom Wood's is your best source for the 242 tail shaft conversion. True, they machine the output shaft and the housing for the conversion, but if you want to keep your 242 its really your best option. I've had mine now for 3 years and have absolutely no complaints. Its one of the best upgrades i've done. My only regret is that I didn't do it sooner.
 
ehall said:
The 231 is a better choice for a trail rig.
Click to expand...

I'm getting that impression. :D
It seems to be better supported, and I've heard it's more reliable as well...

I did see them for sale on a few different sites for $1000.00+ though, that seemed pretty high to me, specially when I would still have to buy another SYE for it...
 
Screw that I have a 242 with a re hack n tap with 37s hp 44 and xj 44 no problems. The case will blow up before the shaft goes.. The only problem ever with the hack n tap is leaking on pre 96 because the tailcone is replaced by a flange and the seal is prone to leaking. You can get a lot of misinformation on here. It depends what you do with the jeep and your setup but for $1000 buy yourself a 241 Rubicon case its a direct swap to 23 spline 96+ also its 4to1 and way stronger then the 231. The only thing is if you don't think you can hack n tap the shaft just buy the new shaft done for you. But what gets me is if some guys can split the case and pretty much disassemble the tc how is it that they can't cut a shaft and drill a hole????
 
The Adam Blaster said:
Is it worth while to change to the 231 unit?
Click to expand...

That depends. More:

This is my 3rd vehicle, it's never going to be a daily driver again, but I will need it to drive well on the highway because any decent 'wheeling is 1.5+ hours away...
Click to expand...

As regards highway use, it won't matter if you have a 231 or 242. If you like having AWD in high range, keeping the 242 makes sense.

It seems to be better supported, and I've heard it's more reliable as well...
Click to expand...

I don't know that I'd necessarily call it more reliable than a 231 - both can fail under abuse or neglect. Better supported, definitely; there are certainly more options for 231s than 242s.

I did see them for sale on a few different sites for $1000.00+ though, that seemed pretty high to me, specially when I would still have to buy another SYE for it...
Click to expand...

As was pointed out, that's NV241OR (the TJ Rubicon transfer case) money - and IIRC, the NV241OR doesn't use a slip yoke. I'm not mega-familiar with those cases, though, so this is likely open to correction.

What it's really going to come down to is how you intend to build this rig out. For light to moderate wheeling, an NP242 and SYE will be fine (three years and mine's going strong); if you're going to go wild with your build, an NP231 or NV241OR may make more sense. You may also want to look at Moose's transfer case comparison chart - it'll help to put some numbers to what the various cases can handle.
 
My lift is done, it's a Rubicon Express 4.5", and I've got my 33's and fenders cut to hell. lol
I used to have a 3" on it, and this being the 2nd lift, I will NEVER change it. I'll buy another Jeep before I do that!
As for power mods, probably won't do much if anything.

Right now, I guess I'm looking for the cheapest and fastest way to have the drivetrain run reliably while I beat on it out in the woods and on the rocks. (It's always a combination of both on the trails around here.)
I suspect the weakest link is the front axle, but it's not locked, and I'm not sure if I will lock it or not - that might fall under the "buy another Jeep first" category...

If I can keep this thing for 3 more years without having to do any more major mods or repairs, I'll be a happy guy.
So, if the hack 'n tap kits will accomplish this on my 242 case, I'll do it that way. ;)
 
casm said:
The difference, though, is that his setup does not use a flange-style adapter like a 'regular' hack & tap does; it adds a fixed-yoke output. See here for the early-style kit and here for the late style kit.
Click to expand...

You can Hack/tap & use a yoke also if you prefer, There has to be 20 threads on here doing just that
(Search for 3103-27CV) + Go jeep has a conversion on his website here http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm.
But for the guy who just wants to go the simple route the RE Hack & tap is hard to beat, easy to install & Very strong.
 
Last edited:
garr said:
You can Hack/tap & use a yoke also if you prefer, There has to be 20 threads on here doing just that
(Search for 3103-27CV) + Go jeep has a conversion on his website here http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSYEconversion.htm.
But for the guy who just wants to go the simple route the RE Hack & tap is hard to beat, easy to install & Very strong.
Click to expand...


good luck on getting that part there is a waiting list call iron rock off road also no ebay they have double cardon drivlines with the slip conected that work well under 300 bucks thats my .02
 
ruger81 said:
good luck on getting that part there is a waiting list call iron rock off road also no ebay they have double cardon drivlines with the slip conected that work well under 300 bucks thats my .02
Click to expand...

A local driveshaft shop (K&M driveshafts) had the part in stock for $49.95. :roll:.
 
I've tried the RE hack and tap and ended up going with Tom Woods set-up after trying to deal with vibes and loose flanges. Granted more money then I wanted to spend, but I prefer the yoke style CV rather than the flange style. Swappable front and rear shafts.

There are 32 spline rear output 242's out there. The 242 has a 32 spline front output unlike the 231 which is the same size as the stock rear. The H1 242 can be adapted to 2wd....its all in the shifter plate and shift forks. The 242J forks so swap over from everything I've seen and had in my hand. The later models +96?? (can't remember the year) have the larger rear output.

There is also a rumor and I've seen one in a jeep dealer, but didn't get a chance to inspect it close up.....but the liberty and rare V8 grands with the select cases......2wd, 4wd, Awd, and 4lo have the 32 spline rear outputs. Just have to keep your eyes open, but they are out there. Then you'd be ahead of the game for a HD hack and tap.
 
The Adam Blaster said:
I'm getting that impression. :D
It seems to be better supported, and I've heard it's more reliable as well...

I did see them for sale on a few different sites for $1000.00+ though, that seemed pretty high to me, specially when I would still have to buy another SYE for it...
Click to expand...
Like casm said, that's for a 241. You can pick a 231 up for under 150 at nearly any junkyard in the country, though I hear the prices are higher in california just like everything else. They're 100 at the you-pull-its around here.

ruger81 said:
good luck on getting that part there is a waiting list call iron rock off road also no ebay they have double cardon drivlines with the slip conected that work well under 300 bucks thats my .02
Click to expand...
I don't know what crappy shop you checked, but I got mine in a week or two after ordering it on drive-line.com for 80 bucks or so.
 
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