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what size is the spindle nut bolt?

SeansXJ

SeansXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Antelope, Ca or on the Rubicon
trying to change the front ujoint...what size the the nut on the spindle? biggest i have is 1 1/4
 
no need to remove the hub to change the ujoint, take the whole assembly out as 1, if you really want to remove the hub the nut its 36mm
 
the hub won't budge..got the 3 bolts off from the back and the caliper...am i missing something? im trying to pull the whole unit and its just stuck. i have no chilton with me, sorry! and thanks!


Sean
 
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ive always used 3 sacraficial hub bolts, there em in half way then hammer away rotaing between the bolts as nessasery, or you can go to the hardware store and get bolts the same lenth or even a little longer is better
 
Hit it harder. Loosening the center hub bolt is not going to free it up any more. Hit on and around the side of the WMS of the flange and try and work it out that way.

Just a thought but you will still need to get that nut off to change the U-joint. It would be a real pain to press the joint in with the hub and backing plate hanging off the outer axle.
 
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Stick a sacrificial socket on the bolts and hammer on that - my Evolv 13mm 12pt is really mushroomed out now. It takes a lot of hammering unless you have a pretty good sized hammer, my 6lb blacksmith's hammer works great.
 
got with the chisel...thanks guys...it sucked but i got it....


Sean
 
squirrel80 said:
Hit it harder. Loosening the center hub bolt is not going to free it up any more. Hit on and around the side of the WMS of the flange and try and work it out that way.

Just a thought but you will still need to get that nut off to change the U-joint. It would be a real pain to press the joint in with the hub and backing plate hanging off the outer axle.
Click to expand...

ive changed many d30 ujoints, all with the hub atached and none with a press, a bfh and a vice is all you will need
 
Best way I've found to loosen frozen hubs is to loosen the hub bolts a few turns. The trick is to use the power steering to pop the hub loose. Use the socket with an extension braced against the inner C while someone else *VERY SLOWLY* turns the steering wheel. As soon as the hub "pops", you're pretty well done with the power, it should be easy to remove after that.

I used this on my CTD's front D60 last summer. Works like a charm.

Oh, and the anti-seize idea is also a good one. Coat all of the hub mating surfaces and the hub will come out pretty easily. Use a little bearing grease on the axle splines.
 
Snap-On recently came out with a few tools along this line of thinking. They are for Ford and Dodge 3/4 and 1 tons. Both of these trucks use studs into the bearing, instead of bolts, so the tools screw onto the studs and are just the right length to reach the inner knuckle. Turning the steering wheel then levers off the bearing.

I wonder when they're going to release the Jeep model of the tool?
 
or if you wheel hard alot and break shafts alot the hubs come out easier everythime:D
 
ChiXJeff said:
That method is fine if you're replacing a hub. I surely wouldn't do that if I wanted to reuse the hub, though. You're pushing on the inner race when it's the outer race that's held in place. This is the same reason that using a slide hammer on the wheel studs is a bad idea.
Click to expand...

Even the traditional BFH like recommended in this very thread is a bad idea, wheel bearings that have been pounded like that tend to mysteriously fail very soon after..
 
JJacobs said:
Even the traditional BFH like recommended in this very thread is a bad idea, wheel bearings that have been pounded like that tend to mysteriously fail very soon after..
Click to expand...
Using a BFH on the heads of the hub bolts isn't a problem, you're not pushing stress through the rotating elements. I did this for a friend's XJ something like 7+ years ago, and to the best of my knowledge, those hubs are still running.

If you're hammering on the drive flange, no debate.
 
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