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Trouble starting after repair

D

Da-heep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Portland, OR
I just put in a new csf-3 row radiator. i jumped in to start it and it starts up then just stops. the car runs as long as you give it some gas but as soon as you let up on the gas it dies. any ideas..?


99 xj sport 4.0L
 
I agree with MJR as a marginal battery can lead to stalling. If it doesn't resolve itself, load test the battery; it's the only conclusive way to determine battery condition.

I don't see any direct relationship of a radiator replacement to your symptoms; it could be coincidental.
 
if input voltage to the ECU drops below about 10V (or interrupted), the memory for the IAC is lost and the parameters of movement for the IAC must be "re-learned" before it will idle correctly-- so I've heard.
 
personally I'd check all the vacuum hoses, and connectors in that area. I've left things unplugged, freaked out, and then realized my error..haha!

likely its very easy fix. Good luck!
 
I don't know about a '99 but my '93 instantly starts and runs correctly after disconnecting the battery. It may be relearning some of the finer points of operation but you shouldn't have to give it gas to maintain idle or teach it anything.

You have almost certainly disturbed a vacuum line or electrical connection.
 
Da-heep said:
It was running great before the swap, so charge the battery then reinstall? what does "learn how to idle again" mean? DAAAAAHEEEEP
Click to expand...

so here's a question, along the lines of what others are asking. did you run your radio or leave your key on during the install? Or did you disconnect it at all?

When I swapped my radiator a couple months ago, I did the swap in about an hour and didn't bother disconnecting the battery (oops?)...I just put the keys on the windshield wiper, so that it didn't get started accidentally by my kids...(toddlers).

So...yeah. did you have to disconnect anything? I just disconnected my tranny cooler, coolant hoses and took off the top bracket, allowing access to the radiator...Oh and maybe the electrical fan switch.


There is an vacuum hose that goes into an elbow thingy that is next to the number 5 cylinder on the pass. that kept popping out when I did my tune up(dist. cap, etc). I remember firing it up after my tuneup and having it run like crapola. I reconnected that one hose and it ran perfectly..haha.
 
i left the key in the off position and disconnected the battery pretty early on, it wasnt the first this i did, but it was disconnected before i disconnected anything electrical.

i checked the vacuum hose that your are talking about and it looked fine to me.

I had to disconnect in this order: fan shroud-upper hose-lower hose-cold air intake filter (to get to transmission coolant lines) battery-electric fan-support strut-transmission coolant lines- then removed radiator and replaced everything.
 
There isn't a way to connect the transmission cooler lines backwards is there? If there is maybe double check that...
 
SanDiegoOverland said:
there may be, but it'd be really tough, and it wouldn't cause his original problem of not being able to maintain idle without "gassing" it.
Click to expand...

I was just thinking, the transmission fluid being forced the wrong way would strain the motor hence having to gas it. It was a long shot and I shouldn't interject with mere speculation(guessing) ha. :looser:
 
i dont think there was a chance of me hooking them up backwards as i only unhooked the part from the radiator and then taped them to a part of the engine so they wouldnt leak out fluid. The in line has a different hook up than the out line so it would be impossible to do that part wrong.
 
could it be the thermostate? could i have hooked it up backwards or sideways or done something else when i replaced the old one? I was pretty careful to follow the diagram on the box and put it in the exact same position as the one i removed.
 
an engine completely devoid of coolant would likely still run, it would simply overheat after a short while.

I'd say that your best bet lies with either fuel or fire.Just check the simple stuff.

1. plug wires
2. dist. cap
3. dist. rotor
4. coil wire
5. coil

check that throttle pos sensor is in place near throttle body...etc...
 
here's a stupid question...did you take your serpentine belt off?

did you put it back on?

A car would start, but probably wouldn't keep running with no alternator?
 
2wmnig0.jpg


sorry that pic is of a 2.5L, but it generally is the same layout as the 4.0L..my bad.haha!
 
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