urgent help... frozen trunion block 4wd linkage

I posted this same thing in the "sticking 242" thread, but wanted to make a separate post to see if I could get a quicker reply since that thread is pretty long......anyway.........


I need some URGENT help.... i'm lying in about 4 inches of snow and I have the trunion block bolt loosened, but the rod will not loosen up. I can't tell if the block itself is metal or rubber/plastic and I don't want to apply heat if it may melt.

I sprayed a ton of pb blaster on it, and it just won't budge. I can barely get a hammer on the end, and have try hitting it some, but it's pretty seized up. Any tricks or ideas??

also, once i tighten the nut back up, is there a certain torque spec it's supposed to be or just "tight" thanks for any help!

How about a 'little' heat from a hair dryer, of course this assumes you are somewhere where there is 120 volts available.

Thanks! I have a heat gun and can prob stretch a cord to it.... I could try it on low I guess. any idea what i can clean the pb blaster off with so it doesn't ignite?

Try a rag to get the PB off. My experience with a propane torch and PB is it burns, but doesn't burn crazy. Make sure that your heat gun really has a LOW setting. A lot of times all that happens is the blower speed changes, but the heating element is still putting out the same amount of heat, so keep it a little distance away. Whatever you do, BE CAREFUL !

tommyr said:

Try a rag to get the PB off. My experience with a propane torch and PB is it burns, but doesn't burn crazy. Make sure that your heat gun really has a LOW setting. A lot of times all that happens is the blower speed changes, but the heating element is still putting out the same amount of heat, so keep it a little distance away. Whatever you do, BE CAREFUL !

Click to expand...

thanks! yeah i know the element actually changes because you can see the difference in the glow. i'm going to wipe it down as much as i can then use some soapy water as another member suggested in my original "sticking 242" thread. so the block is metal right? almost looked/seemed like hard rubber but then again it's 23 degrees here and snowing like mad so my perception is probably a little off

gba88 said:

thanks! yeah i know the element actually changes because you can see the difference in the glow. i'm going to wipe it down as much as i can then use some soapy water as another member suggested in my original "sticking 242" thread. so the block is metal right? almost looked/seemed like hard rubber but then again it's 23 degrees here and snowing like mad so my perception is probably a little off

Click to expand...

It was metal on the Renix and the last TJ trunnion I handled.

How about a long punch or screwdriver and a BFH?

gba88 said:

so the block is metal right? almost looked/seemed like hard rubber

Click to expand...

the entire assembly is metal EXCEPT for the bushings which are plastic, but you shouldn't be messing with those if the assembly is still on the jeep

Hi guys,
Thanks for the help....I had to put all the stuff away and call it quits for now, i couldn't feel my feet anymore!

I got the pb blaster off, and used my heat gun to get the block/bolt up to a pretty warm/hot temp, but it still would not budge. I also tried to use channel locks to pop the whole rod/assembly out of the bushings, but I just couldn't get a grip that would allow the jaws to pen, and also position where I needed it. so then I tried a huge flat headed screwdriver and put the blade between the brackets and tried to twist...still no good. I PROBABLY could have rigged something and forced it out of the bushings one way or another but this is my friends DD and i didn't want to get into something I couldnt' get out of at the moment since we're in kind of a blizzard right now (western PA).

I really think it's the linkage that's messed up because when it's in 4lo, it is more like a quarter inch gap behind the handle/bracket than the 1/8 as is recommended...there is also some slop in it...it's not like it's rock solid .25" away from the bracket...if you move it lightly it has about a 1/8" push either way...at LEAST that much maybe a little more.

I think our best bet might be to hit ebay or find some place to just get the rod and the block in good shape and then just remove the old one and be done with it. I have to check prices though. I just wish it wasn't snowing so much right now. The BFH and punch thing sounds good and I could have tried the huge screwdriver I was using, but this thing is REALLY seized up. it's a 99 by the way with 125k. My 96 with the 231 and about 190k on it shifts like a champ!

I might mess with it again tomorrow once the snow lets up, but for now I guess I'll just try to come up with more ideas to try. Thanks again guys

Check the "bushing" where the torque bar mounts to the body bracket--those go bad and you get a lot of slop.

Parts group number 39 here: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transfer-case/np-242-parts.htm

joe_peters said:

Check the "bushing" where the torque bar mounts to the body bracket--those go bad and you get a lot of slop.

Parts group number 39 here: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transfer-case/np-242-parts.htm

Click to expand...

cool, thanks for the link. I'll look into that bushing... i rmember seeing the 2 bolts where that plate/bracket was held on because the one rubber washer (or whatever it was) was smashing out beyond the bracket like someone had torqued it down way too hard.

only linkage i see on ebay is for a wrangler 231, so i guess i'll keep looking on the net for the 242.

any XJ linkage will work, doesn't matter what type of transfer case

ehall said:

any XJ linkage will work, doesn't matter what type of transfer case

Click to expand...

so would this work?

http://tinyurl.com/ycudpt4

45$ seems like a lot to dump on it just for the rod/block I can't seem to find it on the site Joe Peters posted, and oddly enough the group "39" that he referenced isn't priced on that link! I searched that site, but couldn't find the linkage unless i'm totally missing it in the parts diagram

Now i'm thinking more about just popping the rod out at the shifter handle and the front bracket, then trying to work on it while it's OFF the vehicle. I'm pretty sure I'd be able to free it up, sand everything and have a nice shiny new, ADJUSTABLE part when done. Only problem is that I could not find an easy way to remove it from the bushings. One guy told me channel locks, like I said before, but I couldn't get a grip no matter how I tried to contort around all the driveshaft, case and other linkage parts. Is there some easy way to pop these out? (rubber bushings still seemed pliable, not rotted or anything). More importantly, how do you get them back in? I always like to restore parts that are already there if possible, and this would save a good bit of money from what I'm seeing instead of just buying new parts.

gba88 said:

so would this work?

http://tinyurl.com/ycudpt4

45$ seems like a lot to dump on it just for the rod/block I can't seem to find it on the site Joe Peters posted, and oddly enough the group "39" that he referenced isn't priced on that link! I searched that site, but couldn't find the linkage unless i'm totally missing it in the parts diagram

Click to expand...

You could probably use the rods and trunnion w/o problems, especially the upper rod. The TJ bracket that mounts to the transfer case moves the location of the torque bar--I state that as a fact as it pertains to the NP231 as I am using the AA unibody elimination bracket w/TJ bracket on my XJ.

PS--on that link to Morris 4x4, the part they stock is number 38, the shifter bearing alone, number 39 may be dealer only on that "improved" kit.

PPS--the bearing kit is number 45 on the NP231 parts diagram, and I am certain it is the same for both the 231/242, but you can call the dealer, or call Morris 4x4 to verify. Here is the part price/etc.: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=5014148AA

joe_peters said:

You could probably use the rods and trunnion w/o problems, especially the upper rod. The TJ bracket that mounts to the transfer case moves the location of the torque bar--I state that as a fact as it pertains to the NP231 as I am using the AA unibody elimination bracket w/TJ bracket on my XJ.

PS--on that link to Morris 4x4, the part they stock is number 38, the shifter bearing alone, number 39 may be dealer only on that "improved" kit.

PPS--the bearing kit is number 45 on the NP231 parts diagram, and I am certain it is the same for both the 231/242, but you can call the dealer, or call Morris 4x4 to verify. Here is the part price/etc.: http://www.jeep4x4center.com/product-information.asp?number=5014148AA

Click to expand...

Thanks for that research and info! That wouldnt' be too bad (about 30 bucks or so) to take care of that end of things, too. I'm pretty determined to get that rod out of there though before buying parts. I was thinking maybe if I had something like a pickle fork type tool or the claw of a hammer and I wedged it between the 2 pieces that I could pop it out of the bushing. But then I'd have to worry about getting it back in of course!

gba88 said:

Thanks for that research and info! That wouldnt' be too bad (about 30 bucks or so) to take care of that end of things, too. I'm pretty determined to get that rod out of there though before buying parts. I was thinking maybe if I had something like a pickle fork type tool or the claw of a hammer and I wedged it between the 2 pieces that I could pop it out of the bushing. But then I'd have to worry about getting it back in of course!

Click to expand...

Last time I had the rods out I used a long pry bar, about a 3-footer, stuck it under the rod against the bracket and pried until the rod popped free of the nylon (?) bushings. Getting it back in wasn't too bad, greased the rod and the bushing and used a pair of water pump pliers to squeeze it back together. Of course, I did mine in the lazy hazy days of summer.

Good luck.

there's gotta be a part-out on

joe_peters said:

Last time I had the rods out I used a long pry bar, about a 3-footer, stuck it under the rod against the bracket and pried until the rod popped free of the nylon (?) bushings. Getting it back in wasn't too bad, greased the rod and the bushing and used a pair of water pump pliers to squeeze it back together. Of course, I did mine in the lazy hazy days of summer.

Good luck.

Click to expand...

that's kind of what I was getting at with the big flat head screwdriver,,,,just couldn't get the angle though. Plus, I was worried about getting it back together and plus yeah, the blizzard that was going on and my hands and feet starting to go numb in the 20 degree weather

ehall said:

there's gotta be a part-out on

Click to expand...

yeah that's what i was thinking too... maybe i'll post in the buy/sell forum.

I had a similar issue on a buddies rig. Turns out the rod was bent slightly and rusted pretty good. Once we got it bent back to straight we were able to sand it smooth and get it working well. It was easy while laying in dirt, would suck while laying in snow.