Flippin frozen bolt...still

Ok...so I took all the suggestions I got and tried them to remove the frozen front leaf spring bolt...

1. I tried to drill out the bolt to get an extractor into it. Couldn't get the hole deep enough.
2. Tried to heat the bolt and then drill. Made a ton of smoke come out of the gaps in the "pocket" where the welded bolt was. Best I have available to heat it is a Burnz-o-matic hand held propane torch.
3. Cut an access hole in the bottom of the "pocket" to attempt to break the weld on the weld and get a new one in.

Nothing worked...so...

I've been concerned about too much heat as there are fuel lines running along the drivers side frame rail.

Seriously, what else can be done?

Can another old long bolt be welded onto the stub that is frozen and back out with a wrench/socket?

What steps need to be taken to break the weld on the old nut. I put a bar against the nut and beat on it with a hammer, but nothing.

Really guys...am I screwed at this point?

clamp with vise grips and beat repeatedly with a hammer, as the Haynes manual interpretation page says.

Serious answer:
You can try and weld another bolt to the stub, good luck though. I would probably try using a cold chisel and/or an air chisel on the welds or on the end of the bolt stub, pushing against the face of the nut.

hose it down every day for a week with a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acteone, try to loosen it on day 7, then heat it to glowing and try again.
that bolt is a pain in the arse, and you might end up cutting a hole in the subframe, and then welding in a plate with a hole in it where the bolt used to go.

can you weld a nut onto the exposed end of the bolt then hit it with a good breaker bar? i have had good luck with that. have you been spraying the bolt with a GOOD penetrating oil (not wd40)?

you can pop the fuel and brake lines out of the clips and space away from the frame rail if you want. is your hot wrench propane only or can it be used with MAPP gas as well? the MAPP gas burns a lot hotter than propane and might be the ticket your looking for.

do you know anybody with an acetylene torch? that worked for me on the front of the spring. blew that bushing and bolt and spring right off like it was nothing. and its fun too!

stewie said:

can you weld a nut onto the exposed end of the bolt then hit it with a good breaker bar? i have had good luck with that. have you been spraying the bolt with a GOOD penetrating oil (not wd40)?

you can pop the fuel and brake lines out of the clips and space away from the frame rail if you want. is your hot wrench propane only or can it be used with MAPP gas as well? the MAPP gas burns a lot hotter than propane and might be the ticket your looking for.

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I think I know the torch he's talking about, it's the tiny little one with the optional soldering tip right? Not gonna be hot enough. It's butane only. I keep it in my junkyard bag for softening loctite though, works wonders on the driveline flange bolts on 8.8s.