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XJ 6.5" Lift

J

Jeep_Nation_XJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Edmonton
I am gonna buuy a 6.5" lift from Rough Country with a SYE and a CV Driveshaft.
Can anyone also tell me the other expences that i might have to get?
 
If you're running that much lift, you'll need a drop pitman arm. Also, you'll need an adjustable HD trac bar. Probably need longer brake lines, you can use '95 YJ lines from autozone. You're LCAs are going to be super steep, and short pulling the axle back, so adjustable longer LCAs would be a good thing. I imagine you'll have at least 33s, and if you plan on wheeling this thing you'll want to get a heavy duty tie rod also, the stock tie rod is garbage.

Get the SYE for your 231, and might want to get some axle shims to give your rear ends a better pinion angle. Once you get all this stuff on there, take it to the shop and get it aligned, and you should be ok.
 
If you wheel it hard you'll be replacing all that RC stuff when it breaks!

I'd look at getting a better brand lift with longarms. I'm at 6.5" with rusty's short arms and hate it. I will be building longarms very soon!

Look into RE, full traction, RK etc... I have had good luck with my Rustys, but there are also stories of their stuff breaking, not as much as Rough Country though.
 
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]My Kit Includes:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]6.5" X-Series Suspension Kit includes:[/FONT]
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]F[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]ront coil springs, front upper & lower adjustable control arms, transfer case drop kit, front adjustable track bar, adjustable sway-bar quick disconnects, power steering pitman arm, brake line relocating brackets, 4 Rough Country 8000 series shocks, rear leaf springs, & shackles. [/FONT]
and plus i am going to buy the brake lines from a shop in edmonton for the YJ lines for free cause i know a few people there that owe me some stuff.
 
Yeah, Deffinatley gget the lines, the relocation brackets wont be enough for when you are fully flexed.

Personally, the ride is going to be horrible with short arms. Get the Rubicon Express Drop Brakets if you dont want to go to long arms, thats what im doing.

Dont install the T-Case drop kit if you plan on doing an SYE, you dont need the drop kit with an SYE.
 
32s with 6.5 inches of lift, BOOOOOO
 
LilRedRover said:
32s with 6.5 inches of lift, BOOOOOO
Click to expand...

7.5" and 33's. How's that sit with ya.............:D

P4110001.jpg
 
i run the rc lift, isnt bad at all
 
1990 cables are almost the same length and run down the tranny tunnel, 1997+ the passenger side cable is longer than the 1990 cables, by a fair bit, but the drivers side is really short, shorter than the 1990 cables. Should also note that they attach/run along the driver side on a 1997+. How do I know? I got both pairs of cables sittin in my garage. Also on 97+ we can cheat by moving the ebrake bracket back about 3"s.
 
well eventually i will run 35" tires but for now 32's r good enough But a buddy has a 8" lift and he didn't change the brake lines and he was good until it was stolen. and its a 89.
 
On my 90 with 6.5" the ebrake cables were tight and limited flex in back.

Currently I have no ebrake, but I plan on fixing it using 2 of the longer cables from a 97+. I have one of them now(came with my 8.25), and it should work fine with some bracket modification.

You definitly will need new hydro brake lines front and rear, YJ lines worked great for me, I still had to relocated the front hard lines though. At full flex and turn they are starting to get a little tight, but I have tweaked my suspension and get more flex than most short arm setups not using DBs.

Make sure whan you check the legnth of lines, you take into account not just wheel travel but turning as well.

If you're dead set on the RC kit, you may want to consider using a better adjustable trackbar. I had a RC trackbar once...It bent under mild wheeling conditions!!! That was after eating up 2 rod ends in a month!!! They MAY have redesigned since then (doubtful), RC parts don't have near the beef the others do, but you get what you pay for.

As far as steering, you could use the drop pitman arm to help angles, but you will get bumpsteer. The trackbar and draglink need to be paralell, and about the same legnth. Using the drop pitman arm will throw the angle off. Not to mention the added stress it adds to the already weak steering box mount! Search on here for steering upgrades!

I will finish my rambeling by saying if your only going to run 32s, you would be much better off with 4.5"! Those extra 2" can cost a lot! On 4.5 you shouldn't need to worry about steering, shortarms, ebrake cables, and when I was at 4.5 I didn't even need an SYE!
If you go 35s, you will need to replace axles too, at least the D35 if you haven't already.
 
same here, i had to extend my ebrake cables. they were horribly tight at ANY type of articulation what so ever. i dont think you need new ones, but if you want ill show you pics of what i did (unless you have a welder, then search around, its been done before...)
 
TRAILREADYXJ said:
On my 90 with 6.5" the ebrake cables were tight and limited flex in back.

Currently I have no ebrake, but I plan on fixing it using 2 of the longer cables from a 97+. I have one of them now(came with my 8.25), and it should work fine with some bracket modification.

You definitly will need new hydro brake lines front and rear, YJ lines worked great for me, I still had to relocated the front hard lines though. At full flex and turn they are starting to get a little tight, but I have tweaked my suspension and get more flex than most short arm setups not using DBs.

Make sure whan you check the legnth of lines, you take into account not just wheel travel but turning as well.

If you're dead set on the RC kit, you may want to consider using a better adjustable trackbar. I had a RC trackbar once...It bent under mild wheeling conditions!!! That was after eating up 2 rod ends in a month!!! They MAY have redesigned since then (doubtful), RC parts don't have near the beef the others do, but you get what you pay for.

As far as steering, you could use the drop pitman arm to help angles, but you will get bumpsteer. The trackbar and draglink need to be paralell, and about the same legnth. Using the drop pitman arm will throw the angle off. Not to mention the added stress it adds to the already weak steering box mount! Search on here for steering upgrades!

I will finish my rambeling by saying if your only going to run 32s, you would be much better off with 4.5"! Those extra 2" can cost a lot! On 4.5 you shouldn't need to worry about steering, shortarms, ebrake cables, and when I was at 4.5 I didn't even need an SYE!
If you go 35s, you will need to replace axles too, at least the D35 if you haven't already.
Click to expand...


I will be getting hydro steering a week after i install the lift then i'll get a stronger trackbar and my steering box mount i'll just probally strengthen it.
 
Jeep_Nation_XJ said:
I will be getting hydro steering a week after i install the lift then i'll get a stronger trackbar and my steering box mount i'll just probally strengthen it.
Click to expand...

Are you planning on putting hydro steer on a D30? Or are you swapping axles?

I assume you mean hydro assist, but still it would be difficult to setup on a D30.
 
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