Warn XD9000 Lies Dead in My ARB.

Hey guys i need some advice before i shell out big bucks at the Warn Service center.
I bought a used XD9000 off a guy a few weeks back; got a good deal and got the seller to demo it before i paid. I was satisfied and the winch seemed fine, the winch is older im guessing but looks clean. The serial number is: 193850 and the date code is: LB0.

So i pulled off my ARB bumper, Bought Welding cable aka 2AWG, brass connectors, resin core solder, a refill of propane for the tiger torch a couple meters of heatshrink and headed to work. All of which was advice of a recognized battery shop.

First i worked on my ground wire and 12v+ (Red wire), as these were the only 2 wires i needed to lenghthen. Made certain i made good solder points and heat shrunk all terminations to a high standard.

Next i clocked the winch so that the engagement lever would work under my bumper; again i was carefull not to mess around with the clutch pack or get things too messed up in there.

then i took some pictures of both the winch and the Solenoid/ Controller pack so that when i rewired it i could duplicate it accurately. I also drew a quick wiring diagram for easy use at the bench. I removed the Solenoid/Controller pack and taped up my wires for ease of installation.

Now came time to put the winch up into the bumper, so with some effort managed to convince the winch into its new home in my ARB. I ran the longer wires to the battery on the side GMC mounts on a yellow top Optima. I ty-rap'd the cables neatly and was ready to install the Solenoid/ Controller pack.

I referenced my wiring diagram; with the F-1, A and the sort and ran each wire according to the pictures i took on my camera phone. Each coincided with the other for redundancy so i felt the install was going to be a breeze. Murphy did not agree with this and somehow reared his ugliness.

Without putting the final 3 screws in place i thought i should try the winch "just in case".

There was nothing.

I turned on my Jeep.

Again nothing.

So with the help of the neighbors and some friends we began going through the check list... Did you do this? Yes... Did you try this? yes...

I began by testing the continuity of my wires which was fine.Next i tested voltage at the solenoid array which yielded 12V at the bottom left corner (red wire to 12V+) and top right corner as viewing Solenoid/ Controller pack with cover off. Obviosly i had no voltage on the other sides of the solenoids. (This would have voltage when winch in operation)

One point which raises an eyebrow is that the pins on the remote seem a little loose and the female connectors on the Solenoid/ controler pack cover seem loose/ corroded

May i also say that the Solenoid/ Controller pack seems a lot different than most i have seen.

Any suggestions, concerns or feedback would be greatly apreciated.


:wierd:

Have you checked to see if there is power at the solenoid control lugs, and that they are properly grounded? If it was working before the install, and there is power to the solenoids, it sounds like a solenoid control wiring problem.

When you say "nothing," you really mean "nothing?"

I can hear my solenoids click when they get voltage.

If yours don't, then they're either not getting voltage, or are bad internally.

If the whole thing worked before, then I'd really doubt that all four solenoids went bad.

Something is either wired wrong, or is loose enough to break the connection.


Check for 12vdc across the small posts on the solenoids. When you winch in, two solenoids should get 12v; when you power out, the opposite two should.

If you don't, then you have to find out where it's getting lost. I believe your switch is the same as the one on my M8000, and flipping the switch connects the hot, but also the ground, so you have to check both.


Do you have a way to post the sketch of how it's wired?

It's gotta be something simple. You'll figure it out, don't take it to Warn.

Robert

Wrenchmonkey's on to something:greensmok. Insure the control wires (from the "in and out" remote are indeed applying + and - to the solenoids. No clicky from the solenoids means no juice to the wench motor. Bad connections to the hand control would cause that.
Also, just as a precautionary against battery failure, I noted the following:

"----I ran the longer wires to the battery on the side GMC mounts on a yellow top Optima. I ty-rap'd the cables neatly and was ready to install the Solenoid/ Controller pack.-------"

Optima says don't attach winch cables to the side posts on their batteries. The side posts aren't designed for the continuous high current. Run your starter to the side terminals, and your winch to the tops.

Thanks guys,
I moved the connections from the side to the top, as directed. Apparently they can melt out under high draw. So i decided to dodge that bullet.

Next some suggested the mount that attaches to the older Warn models has in fact chassis ground, eliminating the black 18 AWG which grounds the switch. So i grabbed a jumper cable and grounded out the plate where the soleniods would ground to,

And guess what?

Dead duck. (No clicking/ smoking/ noise/ life)

Next step is replacing plug for the remote and buying a fancy new remote, with a light i guess??

Some pictures i hope will speak a thousand words.

Well, it looks like you have the black and green control leads criss-crossed right, so that's good.

But I think the opposite side of each solenoid needs a ground:



On mine, it was the brown lead off the controller, which is basically a switched ground. As a trial, you could just run a lead from the negative of the battery to each post, and see if it works.

(I assume you tightened the top left and bottom right lugs after the pic was taken, right?)

Robert

oh, yeah, this is the pre-wired view. Before removing all wires and re-installing. the post production is the same with all the nuts tightened down. i will ask them about the ground lugs on the solenoids. Over the phone the service center said the older models are grounded to the housing.

Heartless said:

the older models are grounded to the housing.

Click to expand...

If you say so, but I don't like the look of it...

I'd run a ground jumper to all four, and try again, just for schitz n giggles...

Good luck!

Robert

HAHA!

Got the Wiring Diagram for the 3 prong older chassis grounded XD9000.

Hey Heartless, just wondering if you managed to get this going, I have the same problem with mine. And thanks for the Wiring Diagram too, couldn't find one with the old solenoids!

Warn themselves were very helpful when I rebuilt mine. I printed the exploded diagram from their web site, identified the damaged parts, and I got the parts I needed from Tri-City Gear in Pomona. They were also very helpful. My rebuild cost me almost $20 in parts and wire that needed replacement. It is no more difficult to deal with than a starter with 4 extra solenoids.

m1r4ge,
I actually got life into it... but since then i haven't had a chance to play with it...
Pretty much just sewed it up and left it. I have to pull this snow cat out of the bush here in the next few days so i will definately put that Warn to work.. Probably a bit of chain saw work too... I will let you know how it runs, but im sure it will do fine.

You should be glad you still have an ARB to put that winch in! On a side note, Man can those things take a hit!

Thanks Heartless, actually just got mine going by giving it a bit of a "gentle" tap. Only problem is that my motor has decided to take up smoking... Ah well, time for a newy.

EDIT: Just found this

http://www.warn.com/truck/ReplacementParts/parts/125/srrpl67-68.pdf

Full official Warn pull-apart diagram for xd9000

Part number I put in for the Warn site was 26500 (which is 24v) but it lists 12v motor in the parts list, so looks like Warn has combined the two at some stage.