My t-case hates me...I searched.

So I just picked up an '88 with a 242 case to replace my other rig. Well today (after having it parked for a week since purchasing) I went to put the rig in 4 wheel drive because I remember when I test rode it (I towed it home) it was stuck in part time. Well I tried, and sure enough as soon as I took it from 2wd to full time it just stays in part time. I drove it for awhile like this then parked it, adjusted the lever in accordance to this website (loosen top nut, manually put in 2wd, tighten nut). After I adjusted it, I took the rig for a spin around the neighborhood and put the t-case into full-time and part-time successfully a couple times, then parked it in two. Again I went back out on the road, pulled the lever to go into full time after 10min of driving and it got stuck in part time. I put the lever into 2wd and parked the rig for 10min or so, went back in after it had been stuck for 20min, and it all went back to normal into 2wd.

So now I'm curious, does the t-case being hot have anything to do with the 4wd sticking? It seems when it's cold it'll work OK, then once it heats up you can forget about it.

This rig only has 160k on it, so I'd like to find the problem rather then swapping in my t-case with way more...

~Scott

Check the fluid level in the TCase.

check to see if the tires are the all the right size. I had the same problem on my 99 after National Tire and Battery put one 215 and three 225's on my jeep. It was a very costly lesson; Trust no work but your own.

Thanks guys I'll check all that out ASAP! Anything else?

~Scott

XJadam is right.

Even tires of the same size, from different manufacturers, can differ in diameters by inches. Heck, even the same size tire from the same manufacturers, but different models of tire, can be way off.

Best method, pull the tires off the rig. Mark a line on the ground and on the tire sidewall, then roll the tire for one full revolution, them mark the ground and measure between the marks. Do this for all four, and then remount them matching diameters per axle as best you can.

This is also very important if you ever start running a lunch-box locker.

Also, 90 FSM says the 242 shifter is adjusted correctly by removing the shift bezel, put the lever in 4lo with a 3mm (1/8") spacer between the lever and the shift gate. Secure the lever and spacer in place with a bungee cord or something.

Now, loosen the adjustment bolt, them make sure the t/case is fully in 4lo, then tighten the adjusting bolt and your are done.

joe_peters said:

Also, 90 FSM says the 242 shifter is adjusted correctly by removing the shift bezel, put the lever in 4lo with a 3mm (1/8") spacer between the lever and the shift gate. Secure the lever and spacer in place with a bungee cord or something.

Now, loosen the adjustment bolt, them make sure the t/case is fully in 4lo, then tighten the adjusting bolt and your are done.

Click to expand...

Good call haven't checked my FSM yet. I'll try and give that a shot when the rain goes away.

I think I'll just hold off on it though, keep all this in mind, swap in my axles/suspension/buy claytons/etc. then work on the t-case. Sounds like it should be a relatively easy fix w/e it is.

~Scott

Well I drained and refilled the t-case today...and I've adjusted the t-case 3 times now. I still can't go into 4wd full-time, or 2wd once I change it. I can go into part time and 4low but once I do that I can't go back.

What am I missing here? This rig is nearly identical to my last rig, and I'm running EXACTLY (well, as far as drive-train is concerned other than my SYE I did today) the same stuff on this Jeep as the last one and I never had that problem.

EDIT: Just read multiple threads on the same issue (I guess using different words in the search works best, hah) ...I'm going to fiddle more with the t-case adjuster (WOW SUCH A PAIN) it sounds like mine needs to move out a little more.

~Scott

You could have a binding linkage. The transfer case shift linkage is a crappy affair attached to the unibody trans tunnel and the transfer case. If a tc drop is installed it really aggravates the poor design, or if the engine and transmission mounts are poor that will cause problems too.

Novak 4x4 makes a shifter for the NP 242, $154, but it may be the answer to your problem.

Can I swap the linkage off my spare 242? A buddy of mine came over and took out the engine/trans out of my old rig, and I kept the 242.

~Scott

Muddy Beast said:

Can I swap the linkage off my spare 242? A buddy of mine came over and took out the engine/trans out of my old rig, and I kept the 242.

~Scott

Click to expand...

I don't see why not. I don't know if there are differences in the years, but it should work.

The bushing kit, part no. 39, might be of help too:

http://www.jeep4x4center.com/jeep-transfer-case/np-242-parts.htm

on my old 90 4.0 aw4 242 i had to be rolling in neutral (transmission) then adjust to what 4x4 selection i wanted and it would shift then put in drive.

my 242 shifts alright but sometimes the light switch doesn't engage fully, seems to be stuck in part-time and it's not

my part time light is always on ever since i pulled the disco front axle on my 231 and swapped in a nondisco hp30. i just ignore it. do you think its maybe a vacuum line issue (since i deleted all the vacuum lines) maybe thats your problem?

blondejoncherokee said:

my part time light is always on ever since i pulled the disco front axle on my 231 and swapped in a nondisco hp30. i just ignore it. do you think its maybe a vacuum line issue (since i deleted all the vacuum lines) maybe thats your problem?

Click to expand...

Shouldn't be, nothing vacuum related on a NP242 XJ 4x4 as it would have come without a D30 CAD axle.