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Sick of Death Wobble

Philprof

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Costa Mesa, CA
TREs...check.
Trackbar...check.
alignment...check.
tire balance...check.
LCAs (new JKS)...check.

Ball joints...don't know
UCAs...not sure.

I want to replace the ball joints next, but I don't have the time (and maybe not the skill either) and I'm headed out of town.

Anyone know someone will to do it this week, or perhaps over the weekend?
 
a couple weeks ago my DW came back, right after i swapped wheels and tires-no other change. tried re-balancing, they were off, but it didn't really help. i've gone through the whole front end, only problem is the axle side upper arm bushings are in pretty bad shape. what a PITA that's going to be. in the meantime, i set the toe at as close to 0 as I could get with a tape measure(was a hair over 1/8") and lowered the front tire pressure by 5lbs. I just didn't want to have to deal with every freeway expansion joint freaking out my xj @ 75mph. it worked. since i did that about a week ago, it's only come on once and it was very mild. a quick stomp on the brake pedal(no need to slow waaayyy down) stopped it and i kept cruising. at least it's driveable until i can see if the bushings fix the issue.
 
I was told that my ball joints were needed to be replaced due to DW and to do an alignment along with trackbar, shocks, steering stabilizer, tires, etc (by an allignment shop). I quit having DW after friend helped me toe it in and put new 33 12.50's on it. I had 2 different mechanic friends check out the ball joints and they felt they were fine.

I was told though that the alignment stuff is done thru the ball joints and that you have to find someone or a shop that has tools and knows how to do it. I am not for sure if that is entirely true though, but if you find someone that knows what they are doing for not that much I might join you in having mine done if they infact need it and providing they dont live a long long long distance away heh.
 
yeah, at this point, I just want to throw it at someone and say "fix it!" I'm decent with a wrench, I've lifted and re-lifted this thing. I've got it about where I want it, and now I just want to drive the thing and drag my dirtbikes where I need to...

The other option, which I don't want to do, is to say "screw it!" and get a toyota tacoma...

thanks for the replies
 
Is the trac bar the OEM or a adjustable? at 4" i feel a adjustable is in order. is the bracket tight. i have seen some 3" lift kits come with a drop pitman arm, which is crazy is yours the OEM? are your ball joints even bad,easy enough to check.the uca's are a quick fix if badly worn.8 times out of 10 actual DW is trac abr related.hope you find the culprit soon.
 
track bar is a jks adj. i've looked at many things underneath while someone turns the wheel and i swear nothing moves...this wobble has gotten progressively worse with each re-lift (2-3-4 inches).
 
track bar is a jks adj. i've looked at many things underneath while someone turns the wheel and i swear nothing moves...this wobble has gotten progressively worse with each re-lift (2-3-4 inches).

I wish you were closer, i did mine after reading on here how to set it up for my 6.5 lift..I still havent balance my tire's.. I get some tire vib above 70 mph..I run mudders..

I did my lift almost 2 years ago now..
 
TREs...check.
Trackbar...check.
alignment...check.
tire balance...check.
LCAs (new JKS)...check.

Ball joints...don't know
UCAs...not sure.

I want to replace the ball joints next, but I don't have the time (and maybe not the skill either) and I'm headed out of town.

Anyone know someone will to do it this week, or perhaps over the weekend?

Bad ball joints usually affect the camber. Often, the top of the tires will be tipped in if viewed from the front. Camber is not adjustable in an XJ unless you replace the stock ball joints with adjustable ball joints. Downside to the adjustable versions is that they are not as strong as the non adjustable ones. To check, jack up the front end and wiggle the tire from the top and bottom. Any play signals time for new ball joints.

If you're still running stock UCAs, you may want to consider this as an upgrade opportunity and swap them out for RE or Currie or JKS or something after market. And while you're changing those, put new upper control arm bushings in. They are a bitch to change, but if yours are still factory, it might be time.
 
I was told that my ball joints were needed to be replaced due to DW and to do an alignment along with trackbar, shocks, steering stabilizer, tires, etc (by an allignment shop). I quit having DW after friend helped me toe it in and put new 33 12.50's on it. I had 2 different mechanic friends check out the ball joints and they felt they were fine.

I was told though that the alignment stuff is done thru the ball joints and that you have to find someone or a shop that has tools and knows how to do it. I am not for sure if that is entirely true though, but if you find someone that knows what they are doing for not that much I might join you in having mine done if they infact need it and providing they dont live a long long long distance away heh.

Bull. Camber is not adjustable in an XJ unless you replace the stock ball joints with adjustable ball joints. Downside to the adjustable versions is that they are not as strong as the non adjustable ones. To check, jack up the front end and wiggle the tire from the top and bottom. Any play signals time for new ball joints. Caster is not adjustable unless you have adjustable control arms. And even then, you need to give priority to the pinion angle over caster. The only thing left to align in an XJ is TOE IN. And that you can do yourself, with nothing but a tape measure and a wrench. It should be set to 1/8" toe in. Not zero. Not toe out. 1/8" toe in.

You can search the OEM forum for alignment instructions or find them on almost any other Jeep website. The alignment procedure is the same for all Jeeps with a Dana 30 axle and coil springs.
 
I'll double (triple) check the toe-in. If I'm going to change out the UCA's, I'll take that opportunity to install my RC drop-brackets. Caster was reset to nearly zero with the JKS LCAs...when I'm driving, something just feels slightly loose and oddly clunky.

thanks for the feedback...i know there have been a thousand of these threads by now, and I only posted out of frustration...
 
hey thx for the good info guys :).
 
It should be set to 1/8" toe in. Not zero. Not toe out. 1/8" toe in.

Somethig I was pondering the other day...

Is it always 1/8 regardless of tire size?

For example, if you had 29 inch tires and set it to 1/8"... then put 37 inch tires on, the toe in would increase.

Would you then reset it back to 1/8 inch?

Thanks.
 
Don't forget the hubs. I know more then one person who went thru everything only to find out the hub were worn out and had too much play in them.

Just something to check, since I didn't see it on the list.
 
Somethig I was pondering the other day...

Is it always 1/8 regardless of tire size?


Thanks.

i'd say yes, that seems to be the optimal setting to make the jeep happy. i only bumped mine to 0 to put a little "outward pressure" on the front end while driving at freeway speeds until i can fix the bushings. after that, i'm going back to 1/8".
 
Don't forget the hubs. I know more then one person who went thru everything only to find out the hub were worn out and had too much play in them.

Just something to check, since I didn't see it on the list.

I forgot those...unchecked. It feels like something is worn out of spec. Thats why I wanted to change the ball joints.

How do I check for worn hubs?
 
I forgot those...unchecked. It feels like something is worn out of spec. Thats why I wanted to change the ball joints.

How do I check for worn hubs?

Dana 30s have sealed, non-serviceable unit bearings.

Checking is pretty much the same as ball joints. Jack up the front end. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and pull in and out. Grab at 3 and 9 and check for movement. Movement indicates bad unit bearings.
 
i'd say yes, that seems to be the optimal setting to make the jeep happy. i only bumped mine to 0 to put a little "outward pressure" on the front end while driving at freeway speeds until i can fix the bushings. after that, i'm going back to 1/8".


i got 4.5" in the front and currently im about a 1/2" toe'd in... i havent adjusted mine yet but no DW for me, just alot of bump steer to me... like going over speed bumps the steering wheel likes to jump(turn) side to side a inch sometimes

when i had a shimmy in my steering at 2" lift i was out on my caster, after doing my 4.5" coils and tomken LCA's my shimmy disappeared, im assuming the alignment shop doesnt know how to align a lifted vehicle and set your alignment back to stock spec's... if it was me, i'd adjust your lca's out 2 turns, install take for a drive, if it doesnt work, do it again until it either gets worse or gets better, thats what was suggested by this 4wd shop on how they do it and told me thats what i should do to fix my shimmy.

just an idea, can take it with a grain of salt if you feel im wrong.
 
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