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York 210 OBA?

... The sump is in the compressor, correct? How would i oil that? This is why i originally wanted to go with the york due to its internal oil. Would eliminate all of these problems.

How long have you been using that Sanden? Any problems yet?

The Sanden's sump (or crankcase) is the main body, there is usually an oil fill plug on the side of the case. They come filled with ~5.5oz of oil from the factory, they are an oil lubricated pump. The York uses the same oiling system but due to design, has a more conventional crankcase layout.
Pull a Sanden apart and although unconventional in layout it is still a piston pump, but what drives the piston is just a wee bit different. It just doesn't use a traditional type crankshaft layout ... but the (sump, or crankcase, or oil reservoir) is all there.
 
The Sanden's sump (or crankcase) is the main body, there is usually an oil fill plug on the side of the case. They come filled with ~5.5oz of oil from the factory, they are an oil lubricated pump. The York uses the same oiling system but due to design, has a more conventional crankcase layout.
Pull a Sanden apart and although unconventional in layout it is still a piston pump, but what drives the piston is just a wee bit different. It just doesn't use a traditional type crankshaft layout ... but the (sump, or crankcase, or oil reservoir) is all there.

I have two sandens. I just brought one into my room and took it apart. However, i don't think i took it apart all the way. In any of these pictures do you see where i drill a 1/8 hole to oil the sump?

I'm sorry for my ignorance, but i'm trying to do this right. Assuming i run an inline oiler and oil the sump it should hold up perfectly?

Also, on an inline oiler, do you have to keep adding oil to it like daily, or weekly, or what? Or do i run a line from the filter back to it? I'm new to all of this. I think i just blew all of the oil onto my garage ceiling.


Yes you must use a check valve or you'll bleed pressure back through the unloader.

I used a 150psi relief valve on my tank and set the unloader to 125psi.

Sorry no pics of the mounting plate.

I was going to build and sell kits on my site...but didn't get any interest a couple years ago so I abandoned the idea.

The underloader is on the pressure switch, correct? It basically gets rid of the backpressure on the sanden/york so it doesn't have to start up on load, correct?

If you have the unloader set @ 125PSI that mean when the pressure gets to 125PSI in the tank the switch switches off and then the check valve snaps into place, and then the unloader gets rid of the excess air in the lines, correct?

Are you still selling the brackets or no? I'd assume not. If they're not too expensive, i might be interested in purchasing one.



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Wrong end. If you pop the metal plate the reed valves bolt to, and spin the clutch, you can swe the pistons move.

You want to take off the clutch end, thats where you add the fill hole

As far as oiling, it really depends on use. I use mine to air up 33"s , and ill chevk thr oil every few trips.
 
Wrong end. If you pop the metal plate the reed valves bolt to, and spin the clutch, you can swe the pistons move.

You want to take off the clutch end, thats where you add the fill hole

As far as oiling, it really depends on use. I use mine to air up 33"s , and ill chevk thr oil every few trips.

Just pulled the front of the clutch off. Do you see where i need to drill this 1/8" hole now, or no?

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Just pulled the front of the clutch off. Do you see where i need to drill this 1/8" hole now, or no?

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Is there no plug on the side of the body? Should the left side in your picture, just looks like a bolt head. I do know some of the later models apparently came without them. heven't seen any without one though.

Does anyone have a wiring diagram for the Pressure switch? That would also be a huge help.

Pressure switch will just wire inline on the clutch wire, run it to one side of the switch, and the other will go to the master control switch (on/off switch)
 
Is there no plug on the side of the body? Should the left side in your picture, just looks like a bolt head. I do know some of the later models apparently came without them. heven't seen any without one though.

Pressure switch will just wire inline on the clutch wire, run it to one side of the switch, and the other will go to the master control switch (on/off switch)

No I do have that bolt head. I drill a 1/8" hole in that and then run a street 90 out and put like a 4" nipple on it and just keep filling it with oil? Wouldn't it all just go in at once? Or is there something that would suck it in?

So I need an inline oiler and then an oil fill hole on the side of that bolt?

Would I run the oil return line off the air/oil seperator back into the inline oiler or into the bolt head?

Once again thanks for you help.

That makes perfect sense. Ordered the pressure switch yesterday.
 
Here's a pic of the Kilby bracket. You could probably fab one yourself, but I found it easier and quicker to buy one. The Kilby pulley replaces the stock pulley. It still has the serpentine grooves to run the factory belt. And it also has a V-belt groove to run the York.

I don't remember how much the bracket and pulley were, as I bought them several years ago. And you can call them to inquire about the KE-1700.

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I bought a kit from them a couple of years ago when they were changing ownership. They had to make mine because they were discontinuing the kit. Mine was to be the last one they would sell. I don't know if they have since continued offering the kit though.
 
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