Turbo 4.0 build

[Wheelin4x4]

Whatsup . I've always lurked the forums but never joined but I decided I'm going to attempt to keep track of my turbo build here, pics and all. There will probably be some of the build outside of the turbo included.

Background my heep, bought it stock and built it up. About 5" lift, IRO long arms, 33" MTR/K's with 15" d window steel beadlookers, dana 30 up front open diff, ford 8.8 out back with an ARB, 4.56 gears, OBA, NP 241, AW4, warn m8000, lots of misc stuff.

And here's how it sits now

Lately my heeps current motor has developed a tick that got nasty fast, among other problems such as the cracked 0331 head, bad heat soak in the summer causing a misfire... the list goes on. So, at 180k I'm going to pull the motor.

At first I was going to go with a stroker, but I feel I am too limited on time to pull my current motor and build it, and a pre-built stroker is out of my budget. After keeping my eye on craigslist for some time, I found a turbo system off a pretty heavily modded '92 xj that would lay out a lot of the fabrication groundwork for my '01 xj.

In all I netted a 20g td06h mistu turbo that has a lot of shaft play and needs a rebuild, an ebay special t3/t4 rebuilt with garrett internals that has a little bit of shaft play in it and will probably also get a rebuild, intake manifold with larger throttle body, 42 lb injectors, exhaust manifold, top mount intercooler, hood with scoop, all the piping including down pipe, charge pipe, and turbo back exhaust (although I will need to put a cat in there along with all of my o2 sensors and a wideband o2). Also included was an AEM F/IC that will be perfect for tuning the heep.

These are the turbos, 20g is the smaller one on the right.

And the F/IC

As of right now I am pretty set on getting a reman'd '98 motor and building my current motor.

Should be a fun project, this is my first turbo build and I'm really just now getting into custom fab work so it may not be the prettiest thing on the street, but it will work for me and will (hopefully) be a reliable set up.

 

[Cummins90]

What manifold are you using any pictures. My 95 only needed a 1k ohm resistor to make the O2 bias feature work while my 96 needed a 10k ohm to get the O2 map to respond correctly. Did you get a 1913 fic? Just for fun I went to a local jy and found any JTEC type ecu that was blown. I just tore the connector out for 10 bucks and found a xj same year as mine and asked if I could take the 3 pcm plugs with a foot of harness and I would bring them the ecu. Again 10 bucks. Then wire the 2 together and your have a factory color coded extension harness.

 

[Wheelin4x4]

What manifold are you using any pictures. My 95 only needed a 1k ohm resistor to make the O2 bias feature work while my 96 needed a 10k ohm to get the O2 map to respond correctly. Did you get a 1913 fic? Just for fun I went to a local jy and found any JTEC type ecu that was blown. I just tore the connector out for 10 bucks and found a xj same year as mine and asked if I could take the 3 pcm plugs with a foot of harness and I would bring them the ecu. Again 10 bucks. Then wire the 2 together and your have a factory color coded extension harness.

I'm using a late model horseshoe intake with a 63mm throttle body. The fuel rail that is on it isn't what I will be using though. I won't need the fuel pressure regulator so even more reason to retain my 01's fuel rail.

Interesting to hear the 95 and 96 took different resistors. I was going to start with the 1k and try the 10k after but maybe I should go straight for the 10k?

I got the 1910 fic, should be fine with the 42lb injectors I have. No need to drive a 7th injector really, but I think I would rather have picked up the 1913 anyway. Oh well.

That's a great tip for the harness, I was definitely weary of splicing everything up with a bunch of black wire haha... Thanks man!

 

[Wheelin4x4]

Bit of a slow start to it, between some long workdays recently and a bout with the flu last week. Here's the turbos again, I deleted the wrong picture on accident. 20g is on the right, t3/t4 is on the left.

20g is getting a new compressor wheel since the old one contacted the housing and has some burrs on it (not playing around with that, not with a new motor) and also a rebuild along with a good cleaning. The wheel should be here this week so I can get the whole rotating assembly balanced soon enough. Rebuild kit is ~1.5 weeks out I guess. Sorry for the poor picture, the turbos are sitting on an old curtain... whatever works haha.

Aaaand here is how it currently sits. Couple more things to pull but the motor is pretty much ready to get yanked outa there!

I ordered a new motor 5 days ago but it is still in the "order processing" stage and I have received only one half-assed email after too many attempts to contact the company. So that's not going so well.

Things that have been sourced but not arrived:

-4.0L i6
- td06 compressor wheel
- td06 20g rebuild kit


Things that need to be sourced:

-Wastegate. One I have is seized up ebay junk.
-Brown dog motor mounts. Two plates bent into a triangle with a hunk of rubber in the middle is weak.
-New flexplate (if it hasn't cracked yet its going to soon enough right?)
-Air filter, waiting to see what will and won't fit.
-Heat shielding for underside of intake. I refuse to put up with the heat soak misfire that has plagued me over the years any longer.
-Misc. wiring harness parts/materials.
-Sheilding gas (empty bottle) and exhaust piping.
-3" catalytic converter
-Wideband 02 sensor and gauge
-Boost gauge
-Gauge housing (thinking A-pillar but I might cut up an old center dash pod from a subaru I had)
-O2 sensor bungs for my 4 sensors.
-New PCV valves, mine were very brittle and snapped.
-Oil and filter. Mopar filter, its fat and has a lot of filter media in it. I used to use the purolator 30001 but I'm gonna give mopar a go, especially since you can get it at the auto parts store now. I've always stood by Rotella T and will use it after the break in. I will probably use it for the break in too, but that may change depending on what I can find out about break in oil.
-Possibly a mechanical oil pressure gauge as well. I am somewhat sure my heeps oil pressure gauge is toast.

Hopefully that is just about all I will need for the new motor and turbo setup.

On another, unrelated note my girlfriend and I ordered some new shoes for her truck, 41.5" pitbull growlers. Currently it's sitting on 37's, so I'm thinkin I have some work to do on that thing as well. That beast of a truck is almost a bigger project than the heep. Bigger the truck the bigger the PITA :smsoap:

 

[Wheelin4x4]

I now realize I got confused with what fic does what. I have the FIC that drives a 7th injector so that won't do. Another thing to figure out haha, whoops

 

[Alexia]

I now realize I got confused with what fic does what. I have the FIC that drives a 7th injector so that won't do. Another thing to figure out haha, whoops

Good luck with the AEM FIC. I am switching to a Haltech Elite as a complete ECU replacement since I could never get the JTEC PCM and AEM FIC to behave with each other.

 

[Wheelin4x4]

Good luck with the AEM FIC. I am switching to a Haltech Elite as a complete ECU replacement since I could never get the JTEC PCM and AEM FIC to behave with each other.

Thanks, hopefully it will play friendly with mine. I saw your thread, that's one hell of a build you've got going! Supercharged 4.7L correct? I wonder if the additional displacement had something to do with it?

 

[Wheelin4x4]

20g Turbo rebuild kit and new compressor wheel arrived last night. Gotta rebuild that and send the wheel/shaft assembly out to get balanced. I did a little searching and found From the Air Care Colorado page:

"4. "Check Engine" Light check
This is a malfunction indicator and/or maintenance reminder light. Depending on the make and model of the vehicle, it may say "Check Engine," "service engine," or "emissions," or may simply contain an image of an engine. An illuminated "Check Engine" light:
Will cause vehicles eight (8) through 11 years old to fail the inspection.
Will be noted as "Advisory" only for vehicles 12 years and older."

and

"Inspection of the "Check Engine" light is meant to protect you - the motorist - and Colorado's air quality. Although the emissions testing cycle, for vehicles 12 years and older, can be completed and passed, the light can indicate problems with the vehicle."

So it doesn't matter if my CEL is on. I can use my 1910 just fine, although it won't be terribly great having it on all the time, it's useless then.

 

[Cummins90]

Good luck with the AEM FIC. I am switching to a Haltech Elite as a complete ECU replacement since I could never get the JTEC PCM and AEM FIC to behave with each other.

What was most challenging for you while tuning the FIC? You where using 44lbs accels? What resister did you use? Did you have issues with fuel trims?

 

[Cummins90]

This is the ecm connector cleaned up.



Nothing too complicated just meticulous.



You can stuff a Holset H1C in if you out grow the s20g.

 

[Wheelin4x4]

This is the ecm connector cleaned up.



Nothing too complicated just meticulous.



You can stuff a Holset H1C in if you out grow the s20g.

Meticulous indeed.

You have the boostwerks manifold correct? It looks like he no longer makes them so I am going with the exhaust routed under the pan with the turbo mounted where the A/C was. I will also be running a top mount intercooler that will sit on the back of the valve cover.

I'm curious to see how fast the 20g will spool since its on the smaller side. I don't think it will ever be too small for my needs either.

 

[Cummins90]

That is my manifold. Boostwerks would only make one out of stainless and to the tune of 700 or $800. Material for this was only about $80 from a metal recycling yard, and eBay. The compressor on the s20g will be pushed to the maximum on the flow map at 20psig. Are you using a tdo5 or 6 housing?

 

[Wheelin4x4]

That is my manifold. Boostwerks would only make one out of stainless and to the tune of 700 or $800. Material for this was only about $80 from a metal recycling yard, and eBay. The compressor on the s20g will be pushed to the maximum on the flow map at 20psig. Are you using a tdo5 or 6 housing?

TD06 housing, I never see myself boosting more than 10psi on a stock block (probably closer to the 6-8 range). One day I'd like to see what a stock motor w/ forged internals could do. One day.


Impressive on the manifold, cheap and effective eh? I definitely prefer that set up.

What about your cooling set up? Do you have any heat problems with the turbo sitting under there like that? I had bad heat soak issues from the heat of the manifold.

On another note, turbo rebuild is done. No update on the motor despite multiple further attempts to contact the company. Motor was ordered 11/09, since I have gotten a single half-assed email back from the company and I can't even remember how many attempts I have attempted to contact them.

 

[Cummins90]

It takes some time to build it and get it fitted right but if you can weld you can make anything you want. It was not possible to fit a wh1c or an hx35 in that location due to the extra 2 inches of length from the internal wastegate.

The log manifold is coated, heat wrapped, turbo blanket and underside of intake is foil coated. Plus water meth.